Noisebridge - User contributions [en]

86

2026-03-19T23:57:36Z

Rubin110:

{{gettingalong}}
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This page lists people who are no longer welcome at Noisebridge.
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'''Hundreds of people visit Noisebridge every week, and nearly all of them are excellent to each other!'''

__TOC__

== What is this page? ==

This page lists people who have fucked up, to the point where they are no longer welcome at Noisebridge, including both physical and virtual spaces.

When someone is banned from Noisebridge, and you add them to this page, please link to the meeting notes where the ban was discussed.

If you have photos of banned individuals, please e-mail them to secretary@noisebridge.net.

=== Getting Off This Page ===

'''There is no formal process for getting off the 86 page.''' See [[Path_to_86#Getting_Off_the_86_Page|Path to 86]] for a full explanation.

The short version: the rare cases where someone has successfully returned required a '''sponsor''' - someone currently in good standing at Noisebridge willing to vouch for them and facilitate a probationary return. The sponsor puts their own social capital on the line.

'''Your best bet is to find a friend currently in good standing who is willing to sponsor you.'''

If you don't have such a friend, you can email '''mediation-request@noisebridge.net''' to ask if anyone is willing to sponsor you - but we cannot guarantee anyone will. Without someone inside who trusts you enough to vouch, there is no process that can substitute for that trust.

If no one is willing to sponsor you, we ask that you respect Noisebridge's boundaries and move on.

=== Not indexed ===
This page is not indexed by search engines. It is known to people in the immediate & extended community of Noisebridge, and is maintained as a source of shared & common knowledge.

We don't imagine ourselves a court, but we do maintain a right to share information about conflict & misuses of the space, for the benefit of fellow hackers in future cohorts at Noisebridge, and in other spaces.

=== See also ===
* [[Path_to_86]] - How someone ends up on this page (and how to get off it)
* [[86 Speedrun]] - A cautionary tale: how to speedrun your way to a permanent ban
* [[Conflict Resolution]]
* [[Community Standards]]
* [[AskToLeave]]

== Reciprocal Ban Agreements ==

Noisebridge has a reciprocal ban agreements with some other local hackerspaces. Anyone banned on these lists is banned from visiting Noisebridge.

=== Reciprocal Ban Lists ===
* [https://omnicommons.org/wiki/Asked_to_Leave Omni Commons: Asked to Leave]
* Bike Kitchen - contact them via website for updates

== Banned Individuals ==



===[[272|Capp St]] Era===
====2026====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
!Picture(s), if present
!Description
|-
|Kevin King
|[[File:Kevin King.png|thumb|400x400px]]
|Joined PS:1 on Tuesday evening, and was banned Wednesday morning due to his behaivor that night, making transphobic comments, slurs, threatening, pulling his belt off and waving it around.

|}

==== 2025====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
!Picture(s), if present
! Description
|-
|Tony
|[[File:Tony.png|thumb]]
|Abused moderator privileges on discord to cover up conflict.
|-
|Justin Laser Bong
|[[File:JLB in music room.jpg|thumb|JLB]]
|Smoked in the space. Slept in the space. Fought with many members of the community when he was asked to change his behavior.
|-
|Charlene Smith
|[[File:Screenshot 2025-03-18 at 9.05.16 PM.png|thumb]]
|Live streamed Chaturbate (pornography site) in the space, capturing other peoples faces in the stream. Harassed other women at the space.
|-
|AJ
|[[File:PXL 20241225 051249864.MP.jpg|thumb]]
|Using the space as storage for his hoarded belongings. Left stollen car parked in front of space. Refusing to clean after himself. Egging Noisebridge. He has poor posture, long gray hair, and occasionally wears a Willy Wonka hat.
|-
|Misha
|[[File:Misha.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Misha]]
|Bringing dogs into the space and subsequently neglecting them, general drunkenness whilst not actually hacking on anything in the space, resentment/unwarranted aggressiveness when confronted with un-excellent behavior of napping in the space.

|}

====2024 ====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
! Name
!Picture(s), if present
!Description

|-
|Fromsa
|[[File:Fromsa-aka-Mana_Siyo_-_the_Jackass_1-crop.png|200px|thumb|left|Fromsa]]
|With full knowledge, bringing 86'd individuals back into the space, encouraging breaking in to the space. Escalation of conflict, seeking to verbally intimidate, repeatedly in sewing room, general & other meetings.
|-
|-
|Benjamin
|[[File:Nb-benji-image.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Benjamin (Benji, "wiki")]]
|Repeated, recurring escalation of conflict, in general meetings & mediation meetings for others. Did not respect [[AskToLeave]] despite numerous requests.
|-
|-
|[[User:Jjohnpotter|John Potter]]
|[[File:JohnPotter.png|200px]]
| Refuses to leave when asked to leave. Has broken into Noisebridge after ATL. Sleeping in the space.
|-
|-
|Sam Green
|[[File:Sam_Green.png|200px]]
|Threatened to harm Noisebridge when asked to leave. Claimed he would return with a "surprise." Sleeping in the space. Has threatened multiple Noisebridgers with legal action when they don't comply with his demands. Recommendation: do not engage with Sam, lest you become a subject of his threats as well. Despite most of a year of extensive, mostly excellent, informal leadership in the space.
|-
| "Eagle" ([[User:Seraphim]])
| [[File:Eagle-pic.jpg|200px]]
| Series of incidents including,
*sleeping openly in the space on multiple occasions after multiple warnings,
*cornering individuals in the space, preventing from leaving despite their requests to disengage and leave
*repeated active disruption of meetups,
*heated conflict & accusations of racism to other community members who attempted to advise, moderate, and warn about his behavior.
(other accounts to follow)
|}

====2023====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
!Picture(s), if present
!Description

|-
|John voldal
|[[File:Voldal-pic.jpg|200px]]
|Living in the space, for weeks. (As well as storage of motorcycle on patio for multiple weeks) Excessive personal storage in the space. Personal, exclusive desktop (got mad when others touched it).
Reports from other maker communities of malicious behavior.
Gatekeeping with multiple people. In mediation but would not accept mediator input.
Had to be asked to leave 3 times.
Generally manipulative. Banned by consensus May 30 after multiple attempts from multiple people to set boundaries with him. https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Meeting_Notes_2023_05_30
As of June 6, also came into Noisebridge after being banned, and then, refused to leave. Several officers of the organization had to show up in person to ask him to leave and he refused to the point where we called the cops to escort him out.
|-
|Delph (Delphine?)
|~
|Emailed death threats for multiple people to secretary and treasurer after being removed from the space. French consulate warns she is dangerous or quick to violence.
23:10, 9 March 2023 (UTC)

23:10, 9 May 30 2023 (UTC)
|-
|[[86/Matthew|Matthew]]
|[[File:Matthew_controller_cropped.jpg|120px]]
|Threatened to harm Noisebridge when asked to leave. Will refuse to leave if asked to leave. Refers to themselves as a "controller".

|}
====2022====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
!Picture(s), if present
!Description

|-
|[[86/Ronald|Ronald]]
| [[File:Ronald-2023.png|120px]]
|Ronald has admitted to sleeping and showering at the space over the period of several months. He maintained that he should be able to continue doing it as long as he could get away with it, regardless of what other people wanted. After being asked to take a break from the space he did not respect established boundaries, showing up at the space multiple times

|-
|Noel
|
|Brought and disassembled stolen property at Noisebridge. Did not respond well to communicated boundaries. Had a habit of retaliating to correction.

|-
|Kinnard Hockenhull
|
|Threatened to sue Noisebridge, among other things which make him a liability to the community.

|}
====2021====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
! Picture(s), if present
!Description

|-
|Sheldon Fong
|[[File:sheldon.jpg]]
| Sheldon is in his 90s, was a former business partner or associate of NB's landlord, and has some mental issues. He may come by and try to demand rent or approach with locksmiths to get into the building. He often wears blue, paint-spattered overalls and is somewhat hunched over. Please be kind, but do not let him in. Call for backup from other members if you need it.

|-
|Jackson
|[[File:jackson-86ed.png |200px|thumb|left|]]
|harassing local folks from both NB and bike kitchen: Violent threats, threats to burn down their houses. multiple arrests in last few months in san mateo and SF counties for arson, burglary, etc. warrants are out for his arrest. Appears to be in a mental health crisis.

https://www.localcrimenews.com/welcome/detail/78811831/jackson-west-arrest.html
|}
====2020====
[[Moving]] from [[2169]] to [[272]]. Closed due to [[Ministry_of_Contagion|lockdowns]], etc.

=== [[2169|Mission St]] Era===
====2019====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
!Picture(s), if present
!Description
|-
| Blue Bandanna Lady
|[[File:blue_bandana_lady.jpg |200px|thumb|left|]]
| Has been caught sleeping here, frequently talks to herself, aggressive towards others.

Sat around speaking to herself in the hackatorium, and was aggressive towards others that were too close to her. Was caught sleeping on several occasions. When not allowed in she climbed the gate and stayed in the stairwell for a while. When told to leave she accused NoiseBridge of being infiltrated by the Lizard Illuminati. She stood outside for a bit after that holding angry signs up to the camera.

[[File:climbing_gate.jpg |200px|thumb|center|]]

|-
|Daniel
|[[File:daniel.jpg |200px|thumb|left| Daniel ]]
| Daniel has been caught sleeping at NoiseBridge numerous times, and is frequently drunk in the space.

He typically wears a bright red rain jacket, and carries around a suitcase. Daniel has been given several warnings against sleeping in the space, as well as heavy drinking and trying to store his belongings at NoiseBridge.

|-
|Tom Nevin
|[[File:Tom_nevin_thief.jpeg |200px|thumb|left| Tom Nevin]]
|Money has continually been stolen from Noisebridge cash boxes. Tom has been seen taking money from a Noisebridge donation jar.

Tom comes in frequently early in the morning and very clearly tries to get people away from the cash boxes by trying to convince to go to other parts of the space or figuring out when they're planning on leaving. Tom still tries to get in. Do not let tom in.

|-
| Hat / Beer Guy (Gio / Geovana)
| [[File:Hatbeerguy.png |200px|thumb|left|Hat / Beer Guy being asked to leave]]
|Too often problematically drunk in the space (4 recorded incidents):

- joined a laser class but was too drunk to remember what was taught, asked to leave the class

- drunk in space on Mardi Gras, tried to give someone a mug that said 'codility' on it insisting that it was good stuff

- pretty intoxicated and gave attitude about having to leave when space was being shut down

- got wasted and then came to the hackatorium to announce that he was the King and "what can i get for you", asked to leave for repeated sexually harassing statements

|-
|Rigol
|[[File:Rigol_sleeping.jpg |200px|thumb|left|Rigol Sleeping on the couch in Fox Lounge]]
|Rigol has continually slept in the space despite being asked not to numerous times. He was asked to leave and not come back but has continued to return and continued to fall asleep. When asked to leave he is argumentative but will eventually leave if you keep asking.

|-
|George Mylonas
|[[File:GeorgeM.JPG |200px|thumb|left|George Mylonas]]
|George used several expensive machines in unsafe ways and ignored advice on how to use them correctly. Because of this, he ended up damaging them, but hid this fact. He demonstrated carelessness for how others would be affected by his actions. When confronted, he did not take responsibility for the damage or the carelessness. He is banned from ever returning

|}
====2018====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
!Picture(s), if present
!Description
|-

|-
|Nicolas H.
|
|Nick has been asked repeatedly to not drink in the space, and he continues to do so. His repeated lying about it, disregard for rules such like sleeping at the space, and causing hindrance to others makes him unwelcome until such a time that he can prove to the community he is able to function within it's bounds.

|-
|Alexander
|
|Alex repeatedly physically threatened multiple members of the Noisebridge community, online. He is no longer welcome here.

|-
|Dan Gailey
|[[File:Dpg.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Dan]]
| Dan has been emotionally and physically abusive, to various degrees, towards multiple members of our community.

|-
|Karriem (also AK)
|[[File:Karriem.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Karriem]]
|Karriem attends meetups claiming to be an angel investor, giving people the impression that he's of significance in tech and in particular in hacker spaces, including Noisebridge. He claims to be extremely knowledgeable about various things, but when he's engaged on them, he quickly departs the conversation. Additionally, he has been hostile toward members of the community trying to address issues with him. Still tries to come in occasionally as of July 2019 (usually when there is a crypto-currency related meetup happening).

|-
|Omar / Neon / Reynaldo / Ronaldi
|[[File:Omar.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Omar]]
|Omar has been asked to take a break several times for leaving messes, not cleaning up after themselves, and taking food / drinks without paying. Each time, they have returned with the same behavior. He has subsequently also tried to tackle someone who helped to ask him leave the space.

|-
|Andrew
|[[File:Andrew86_1.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Andrew]] [[File:Andrew86_2.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Andrew]]
|Andrew was behaving extremely erratically, with delusions and hallucinations about those around him. He accused one person of trying to reprogram him, made multiple racially charged comments towards others, would not leave people alone when asked, and often could not perceive their words when they were speaking to him because of his hallucinations about what they were saying to him. He also tore up the anti-harassment policy and was extremely difficult to remove from the space because of his inability to recognize what was being asked of him, and because of all the stuff he had accumulated around him physically.

|-
|Daniel Telburg
|[[File:Daniel_telburg.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Daniel]]
|Daniel Telburg: we have heard several reports from members of the community that he has raped young women. He is not welcome at Noisebridge.
|}
====2017====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
!Picture(s), if present
!Description
|-

|-
| Ryan
|[[File:Ryan2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Ryan]]
|Sudoroom banned Ryan Martin for safe space reasons, stating prolonged intimidation and harassment. Due to reciprocal ban agreements for reasons of safety, he is automatically also banned from Noisebridge. It was noted that he is hard to recognize from this photo. He now has a bit longer hair (though still short) and is a bit bigger than in these photos -- one factor that might help identify him at other spaces is that he has been coming in with his girlfriend (who Sudoroom has no issue with) who has blue hair. November-2017
|-
| Rainbow
|[[File:Rainbow1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Rainbow]]
|Rainbow was asked to take a break because of her erratic behavior and possible drug use in the space. After the break, the problematic behavior continued. Rainbow is no longer welcome at Noisebridge. September-2017
|-
|Zach
|[[File:Zach.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Zach]]
|After his manipulative behavior caused too much drama and discomfort, Zach is not welcome at noisebridge. August-2017
|-
|Jeff
|[[File:Jeff.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Jeff]]
|Jeff was asked to leave Noisebridge after many conversations. He kept bringing sketchy phones into Noisebridge, thought to be stolen. He was asked about a phone stolen in Noisebridge. He continued to change the OS's on computers after being told not to do so. In all of these occasions he behaved in ways that made people at Noisebridge very uncomfortable. Jeff is no longer welcome at Noisebridge. June-2017
|-
|Patrick (aka Jin)
|[[File:Patrick(Jin)1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Patrick/Jin]]
[[File:Patrick(Jin)2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Patrick/Jin]]
[[File:Patrick(Jin)3.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Patrick/Jin]]
|Patrick (aka Jin) was caught stealing a computer from Noisebridge. He is no longer welcome at Noisebridge. May-2017
|-
|Damian
|[[File:Damian.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Damian]]
|Damian was making people uncomfortable with his erratic interactions. He was probably high. Damian refused to leave when asked. Damian is not welcome at Noisebridge. Apr-2017
|-
|Tara
|[[File:Tara.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Tara]]
|Tara was asked not to have her dogs at Noisebridge when they were making people very uncomfortable. She responded quite poorly and lied about the circumstances. Mar-2017
|-
|Ben Woosley
|[[File:ben_woosley.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Ben Woosley]]
[[File:ben_woosley2.png|200px|thumb|left|Ben Woosley]]
|Ben Woosley engaged in non-consensual sex (aka rape) with someone who comes to Noisebridge. He acknowledges the sex was non-consensual but insists it isn't rape. He is not welcome at Noisebridge. Feb-2017
|-
|Daily Swa Laurel
|[[File:Daily_swa_laurel.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Daily Swa Laurel]]
| Banned from Counter Culture Labs and The Omni on 7-Feb-2017 for online threats of violence toward a member of Counter Culture Labs. Due to reciprocal ban agreements for reasons of safety, he is automatically also banned from Noisebridge.
|-
|Chris Altman
|[[File:Screen_Shot_2017-01-11_at_7.56.24_PM.png|200px|thumb|left|Chris Altman]]
|Continued to sleep at NB after many warnings. He was asked not to come back but waited a few months and lied his way about his good standing in the space, proving that he cannot be trusted. Chris Altman is not allowed to return to Noisebridge. Jan-2017
|-
|}
====2016====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
!Picture(s), if present
!Description
|-

|Nick
|[[File:Nick.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Nick]]
|On 10-December-2016 Nick was asked to leave Noisebridge and not to comeback. He verbally abused our downstairs neighbors at Oh Happy Day. Nick has been warned about his negative and abusive behaviors many times over the years and has not changed his behaviors. He is no longer welcome at Noisebridge.
|-
|(name unknown)
|[[File:unknown_name.jpg|200px|thumb|left|(name unknown)]]
|On 3-December-2016 an unidentified person climbed over the front gate, and when Torrie greeted this unidentified person at the stairs, they punched Torrie in the chest.
|-
|Kyle
|[[File:Kyle.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Kyle]]
|On 1-December-2016 Kyle was visibly intoxicated in the space while using a blowtorch for glass blowing. We asked him to stop using the blowtorch, he refused and was hostile and insulting. He had to be escorted out by a team of people. He is not welcome back.
|-
| Jason
|[[File:Jason.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Jason]]
|After being very helpful and friendly at Noisebridge for several months, others became very concerned and uncomfortable with his growing talk of conspiracies against him at Noisebridge, with hints of violence targeted at those he felt were part of the conspiracy. His erratic behavior and the above threats of violence resulted in Jason being asked to leave Noisebridge at the end of September, 2016.
|-
| Lance
|[[File:lance_combined.png|200px|thumb|left|Lance]]
|Lance was formally banned from Noisebridge in September 2016, although he has previously been asked repeatedly to leave and not come back. He refuses to leave the space peacefully and always requires significant effort to get him to to leave Noisebridge. He is a textbook tweaker, who while peaceful in his interactions with people, mutters threats under his breath.

* Note: He repeatedly tries to come back to the space, even when asked not to return (Once in April 2016, and twice in August/September 2016). He tried to enter again in October 2017. If asked to leave, he is not dangerous, although he is quite vocal.
|-
|Mark Janssen (Xer0Dynamite)
| [[File:Mark_janssen.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Mark Janssen]]
|Mark was banned from Noisebridge due to a history of internet hate speech and having been asked to leave Sudo Room. Noisebridge aims to be a space that is inclusive of people of all walks of life, which means we actively work to exclude those with views of intolerance and threats of violence.
|-
|Mischa Spiegelmock (wooster)
|[[File:Mischa_Spiegelmock.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Mischa Spiegelmack]]
|Mischa was banned from Sudoroom in March 2015 for being "manipulative, dangerous, acts in bad faith and will knowingly exposes Sudoroom members to violent abuse". He's a known troll and has harassed and targeted individual members of their community. Given The reciprocal ban agreement with Sudoroom he is no longer welcome at Noisebridge
|-
| Diana
|[[File:Diana_ban_photo.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Diana in June-2016]]
|Diana was banned at Sudo Room in June-2016 for physical violence against a member. Since Diana was banned for safe space reasons, they are automatically also banned from Noisebridge. 
According to an email from Sudo Room: "This was an escalation of a dispute between two people who had an existing relationship and Diana lives very close to sudo room so you shouldn't worry overly about a problem at other hackerspaces." And from the Sudo Room "Asked to Leave" page, Diana "Additionally has been using the space as their living room (playing WoW all day) and caught sleeping at least twice."
|-
|David/Bunny
|[[File:David_Bunny2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bunny in March 2016]]
|Asked to take a break in March-2016 after some misunderstandings, but he came back asking at least one person in the space to not tell Mitch or Rubin that he was in the space, and was seen taking away an item of high value. He returned the item, but is no longer welcome at Noisebridge.

|-
|Darren "Crystals Guy"
|[[File:darren_crystals_1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Darren in Feb 2016]]
|Was asked to leave after spreading his rocks over the hackatorium tables.
Hid salvaged electronics boards that were in the hack shelves onto the top of a high bookshelf, apparently for no reason.
Has a compost bin full of sandy rocks he considers crystals.
Became angry, yelling at multiple people.

Should never be allowed back into the space.

[[File:darren_crystals_2.gif|left|Darren in Feb 2016]]

|}
====2015====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
!Picture(s), if present
!Description
|-

|-
|Adam
| [[File:Adam.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Adam in December 2015]]
|Asked to leave having been caught stealing from others in the space.

At several points misused the space in the creation of his "art", hiding large amounts of "art" around the space.

Was caught sleeping in the elevator overnight in late November 2015.

Was asked to take a break in late November 2015 after the sleeping incident and initially agreed to do so, but then returned repeatedly to the space claiming that nothing was wrong.

When confronted about his theft of another member's property he became irate and threatening to them.

Should not be allowed into the space under any circumstances.
|-
|Shawn Landden
| [[File:ShawnLandden.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Shawn Landden 2013]]
[[File:shawn_landden_beard_102915.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Shawn Landden 2015]]
|Banned by consensus. See [http://pastebin.com/82m0uhC4 here] and [https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/noisebridge-discuss/2013-March/034968.html here].

If Shawn returns, immediately call the police. State he's trespassing, and he has a violent history of assault against individuals and law enforcement.

Arrested in Feb 2014 for assault, breaking a restraining order, harassment and stalking.

Arrest on 4/9/2013 for Assaulting An Officer in Sausalito, Marin County California SEE: [http://pastebin.com/SXBFfaJH here]. [http://i.imgur.com/vxaV6Ms.jpg photo].

1st quarter, 2013

|-
|Matt the tweaker
|[[File:mattthetweaker.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Matt the tweaker]]
| Matt carries a backpack full of shower rings twisted with tangle therapy tangles. He has converted his brain into a computer and is using it to solve the tangles with an algorithm. He is quiet and not aggressive, but very fixated on his tangles and can't form a completed thought, continuing on until you interrupt him.

Persistently tell Matt that "you have to leave now" and walk him out. He will go about 5 feet at a time but is not aggressive.

Kicked out September 2015 - Scotty & fineline

Kicked out October 2015, Twice - Trent & Evil Dan

October 2015

|-
|Clayton Hill
|[[File:Clayton_Hill.JPG|200px|thumb|right|Clayton Hill]]
[[File:Clayton_Hill_2.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Clayton Hill]]
|Asked to leave due to being wasted at the space (drugs? alcohol) and when asked to leave threatened violence against Torrie. Reappeared at the space 2 months later and again refused to leave when asked, again threatening violence. It took 7 people and the SFPD to get him to leave. Do not under any circumstances let into Noisebridge. He's to be considered violent and unpredictable

|-
|Pidgeon (aka Violet)
|[[File:Violet_aka_pidgein_face.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Pidgeon/Violet]]
|Banned from Sudo Room for safety reasons. Banned from Noisebridge for disrupting meetings, climbing over the gate, and other toxic behavior. Has threatened to "cut" people.

|-
|Vince
|[[File:vince.png|200px|thumb|right|Vince lunging at [[User:Tdfischer]] taking his picture]]
[[File:vince2.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Vince belligerently arguing with [[User:Maltman23]] as he was being ejected from Noisebridge on Monday, 5-July-2015]]
|Comes into the space, tweaked to hell and back. Once threatened to shoot Jake. Has no problem with employing violence against people kicking him out. Call the cops.
|}
====2014====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
!Picture(s), if present
!Description

|-
|[[86/DonationBoxThieves|Donation Box Thieves]]
|[[File:donation_box_thief_2.png|200px|thumb|right|Cliff stealing $ from the donation box]]
|Some thieves were recorded breaking open and stealing right out of the donation box. One of them was Cliff. Super lame. Other names unknown.
Junior is the other donation box thief. He has also been 86'd for other reasons as well.

*[http://spaz.org/~jake/pix/20130201085252.avi Video_example_#1]
*[http://spaz.org/~jake/pix/20130204085649.avi Video_example_#2]
*[http://spaz.org/~jake/pix/20130219081710.avi Video_example_#3]

These scummy guys should be confronted and asked to leave on-sight.
|-
|Harvey Grossman
|[[Image:Harvey2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Harvey]]
[[Image:Harvey.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Harvey]]
[[Image:Harvey-noisebridge.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Harvey]]
|Older guy with longish gray hair, who has often come to Noisebridge with bedding, and has used Noisebridge as a home from time to time. He has been asked to leave, and not come back. He has come back anyway. He has a gate key -- if you see him, demand that he give you the key.

Here is a link to the meeting where Harvey was banned: 
[[Meeting_Notes_2013_09_10#Proposals_discussed_this_week]] 
And here is the relevant quote: 
:"Harvey is no longer allowed in the space. Has admitted to stealing, was caught sleeping in the stairwell on many occassions, returned items that belonged to multiple residents of Noisebridge. Was seen and accounted for by multiple members of Noisebridge to be digging in other people's belongings. Many tools and properties of Noisebridge were found among Harvey's things."

On 24th September 2014 Harvey attacked Mitch while trying to interfere with the contents of the mailbox. "If you see Harvey ever again, call the police. He bit my thumb tonight to get back the piece of mail he was taking from our mailbox." If you call the SFPD in relation to Harvey cite the case number 140-810-381 in relation to his assaulting Mitch.

|-
|Sid Scott
|[[File:Sid_20140222.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Sid]]
|Caught stealing things from Noisebridge member shelves and hoarding them in the basement. Stole over $1,200 of [[Circuit_Hacking_Monday]] gear alone. Was seen re-attempting to gain entry to Noisebridge on 12/10/14[https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/noisebridge-discuss/2014-December/date.html]

|-
|Corey Oberdorfer
|[[File:Corey.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Cory]]
|Pathological liar. Told Noisebridge that he was on the board of Hayhackers, and told Hayhackers that he was secretary of Noisebridge

|-
|Jean-Jacques
| [[File:Jean-Jacques.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Jean-Jacques]]
[[File:Jean-Jacques2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Jean-Jacques]]
|Older guy with white combed over hair. Around 5'10. Jean-Jacques was repeatedly caught hoarding large quantities of personal stuff in Noisebridge and subsequently lying about its removal from the space. This culminated in the discovery that JJ had filled approximately 60 boxes worth of stuff into the crawl space beneath the first floor in the basement, directly after having been given an ultimatum to remove all his personal stuff from the space be banned.

|-
|David
|[[File:David.jpg|200px|thumb|left|David]]
|Late twenties dude, 5'11. Asked to leave repeatedly by Torrie, Rayc, Rubin and Patrick. Refused to leave the space, made all sorts of claims about folks attempting to discredit their opinions about him. Refused to the point of having the police called. Is associated with Pidgeon and Pirate Mike. Not welcome back in the space.

|-
|Robert (aka Rayc)
| [[File:Rayc.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Rayc]]
[[File:Rayc2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Rayc]]
| Was caught living on top of the building's elevator in February-2014, and was banned for 6 months as a warning. He was caught living in the space again in December-2014. It became difficult to trust him. He wore people out in endless discussions with the repeated claim there was some kind of class conspiracy going on within the community. As a result he used up a lot of bandwidth and became severely disruptive to the Noisebridge community. Rayc is no longer allowed in Noisebridge.

|-
|Robin Noel
|[[File:Robin.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Robin Noel]]
|Was proposed for banning due to use of racial slurs, deliberate intimidation, and harassment[https://noisebridge.net/pipermail/noisebridge-discuss/2014-February/042574.html]. Instead, Robin promised to not return to Noisebridge unless invited back by consensus[https://noisebridge.net/wiki/Meeting_Notes_2014_03_04#Ban_Robin]. His membership was subsequently suspended[https://noisebridge.net/wiki/Meeting_Notes_2014_03_11#Proposals_from_last_week]. Subsequently, he threatened Noisebridge with legal action[https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Meeting_Notes_2014_03_25]. Robin is not welcome back in the space.

|-
|Jeanine Otter
|[[File:Jeannine_Otter.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Jeanine]]
|Used Noisebridge's public computer and printer facilities to print at least 25 anti-gentrification flyers featuring the phrase “die techie scum”. Torrie asked Jeanine and two friends to leave and not ever return.

|-
|Egon (aka 86me)
|[[File:Egon.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Egon]]
|Very abusive to people in the space.
In late 2014, after being denied access to the space for being super drunk (with PirateMatt), rather than go away, he popped the top door hinges to gain access.
Though often very nice, and helpful, he was asked to stay away from Noisebridge for his abusive and erratic behaviors.
He was banned at Sudo Room for safe space reasons after being abusive there.
He's now reciprocally banned from Noisebridge for safe space reasons.

|}
====2013====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
!Picture(s), if present
!Description
|-

|Adam (Joseph Adam Moore)
|[[Image:Adam_profile.jpg|150px|thumb|left|J Adam Moore]]
|aka [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/User:DieLaughing DieLaughing]

Banned [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Meeting_Notes_2013_10_01#Proposals_from_last_week by consensus] 2013-10-01 for physical assaulting another Noisebridge user and concerning behavior.

See [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Meeting_Notes_2013_09_24#Proposals_for_next_week notes] and [https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/noisebridge-discuss/2013-September/039479.html discuss]

Relevant:
[[Image:JAdamMooreProbation.png|80px]]
|-
|James Leonard, aka James the Advocate
| [[Image:JamesL.jpg|200px|thumb|left|James]]
|[https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/noisebridge-discuss/2013-June/037825.html asked to leave, responded with verbose legal threats].

2nd quarter, 2013

|}
====2012====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
!Picture(s), if present
!Description
|-

|-
|Rob 2.0
|[[File:rob20.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Rob 2.0]]
|Around 6 feet. Frequently wears a Giants / Bears baseball cap. Thin, scruffy. Eyes wander around frequently. Kinda looks like Scumbag Steve. Officially banned through consensus — the whole deal. Repeatedly shows up at the space anyway. Kick him out on sight.

date?

|-
|Purple
| (None)
|See the [[85]] page. Stole from the member's shelves and from me. -- Rayc
|-
|Nyle
|(None)
|Male, early 20's, Asian, black beard and hair, 5′ 8″. Please post photo if available.

For more information on Nyle, see [[85]]. Nyle has been spending a whole lot of time at the space recently - perhaps half his days. He never hacks anything and makes no secret of the fact that he never will. Jesse Z and Alan asked him to not come back repeatedly (February - March '12). If he does come back, please escort him out and tell him that he can explain himself at a Tuesday meeting if he would like to.

|-
|Jon(athan)
|[[file:Jon-1.png|200px|thumb|right|Jon]]
[[file:Jon-2.png|200px|thumb|right|Jon]]
|Jonathan was asked not to come back, due to allegations of organizing illegal activities from within Noisebridge and theft. A few days later, he had a proxy return to the space a few days later on his behalf to retrieve blankets, etc. that he'd apparently stashed in the darkroom. However, what his proxy took was apparently not the blankets that he wanted, and he shortly thereafter came upstairs and went into the darkroom, himself leaving with items that appeared to be bedsheets. The fabric his associate had taken was found in a heap at the bottom of the elevator and returned to the darkroom. Several days later, Jonathan returned to Noisebridge with his hand shoved in a gym bag, claiming he had a gun. He continued pushing past people to get into the main space, screaming constantly about killing everyone and then himself, and that everyone was to leave, or he would kill them all. He also claimed that the cops were hot on his trail and would arrive at Noisebridge at any moment, and that he intended to provoke a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suicide_by_cop suicide-by-cop]. Not sure on whether or not he did have a gun, people were not taking a chance as they filed for the exit. However, Derek, Jedi, Rayc, Ben, stayed behind, calling him on his bullshit. Four people swarmed him as he made a b-line sprint for the fire escape. They wrestled him to the floor and removed his bags away from him. Jedi arm barred and escorted Jonathan down the stairs to the sidewalk, bringing him over to the quickly-amassing phalanx of squad cars. Immediate consensus was that he is not welcome in the space again.
|}
====2011 & earlier====
{| border="1" cellspacing="0"
!Name
!Picture(s), if present
!Description
|-
|Thief
|<gallery width="200px" mode="nolines">
file:IMG 0291.JPG|
file:IMG 0292.JPG|
file:IMG 0293.JPG|
</gallery>
|This guy went into the back classroom and took Rayc's wallet out of his backpack. Rayc saw him with the wallet in his hand and the guy tried to say it was his. He then started running towards the door and was tackled by Jake. We made him show us that nothing was in his pockets, and he kept avoiding the big pocket in the front of his jacket. This pocket turned out to have Sasha's smart phone. During the search his crack pipe fell onto the floor and broke into many pieces. We let him go and told him not to come back.

Photos indicate this occurred June 6th 2011
|-
|Ilya
|<gallery mode="nolines">
file:Ilya.jpg|
</gallery>

|This person named Ilya was behaving irrationally, and confused his own backpack with Patricks, causing suspicion that he was intending to steal things. He also put on Patricks' clothes and said he thought people were allowed to use whatever items were in the space. He had some small, and not particularly valuable, items that he had pocketed, and had stashed random, not valuable, items in the bathroom. He was unable to explain his behavior to Dr. J and was handed over to police, who did not take him into custody, and he was told not to return to Noisebridge.

He was with his brother Alex who did not do anything sketchy and should not be banned. -jake

Date?
|}

File:Kevin King.png

2026-03-19T23:53:18Z

Rubin110:

Kevin King

User talk:Rubin110

2026-01-29T00:47:09Z

Rubin110: Reverted edits by 178.17.163.82 (talk) to last revision by Rubin110

User:Rubin110

2024-10-30T06:54:16Z

Rubin110: I got sleepy.

Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309

2016-07-04T08:23:26Z

Rubin110:

[[Image:Kaitian.jpg|thumb|400px|right|Kaitian CM1309]]

''This page contains information about Noisebridge's Kaitian 100W laser. You might be looking for [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W|Full Spectrum Laser]], our older laser cutter, or information about our [[Resources/Network#Monkeybrains_Wireless_Link|gigabit laser uplink to the internet]].''

'''Some friends of Noisebridge from China have donate a really nice brand new, fully supported, laser cutter to Noisebridge!'''

In February of 2016 we were approached by [http://www.kaitianlaser.com/ Beijing Kaitian Tech. Co., Ltd], after Mitch gave them a tour of Noisebridge they offered us a new 100w laser cutter as a donation (with the stipulation of us taking care of shipping costs). As of July 1st 2016 (and after a crazy adventure involving a rental truck, a forklift, and a lot of Indian pizza), we now have the laser in house. Please check out our action items to see what needs to happen next.

=Current Action Items=
* Review what else needs to happen to get the laser installed and the area in the Sparkle Forge it sits in happy
* Source some computer gear and a new monitor
** Rubin has a plan for a pair of Intel NUCs (running Windows for reliability and Linux for hackability) and have it securly mounted to monitor
* Start the process of documentation
** Safety
** Training
** Materials
** Donations for laser time and expendables
** How to schedule time
** How to actually use the damn thing
* Discussion about ACL
* Some work to better figure out the laser software
* Fundraising for the remainder of the $4000 plus extra for expendables

====Done Items====
* Get someone who knows enough about structural engineering to look at the place we want to use the laser cutter at Noisebridge, and let us know if the floor can handle the 1,000 pounds weight of the machine.
* Raise $4,000 for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge. This will get the laser to us, and give us full support from Kaitian.
** We've raised about $1500 so far
* Build a room for it, with some sound insulation and ventilation that can handle the fumes.
** The laser current lives in the Sparkle Forge.
* Come up with a plan for the room, and raise funds for buildout of the room.

=Specs=
====Machine====
* Laser: 100W
* Working area: 1300mm × 900mm × 210mm / 51.1811in × 35.4331in × 8.26772in
* Table size: 1360mm × 1080mm / 53.54331in × 42.51969in
* Function: Engraving/Cutting
* Workpiece maximum weight: 25kg / 55.1156lbs
* Cutting speed (cm/min): ≤4800
* Resolution ratio: 4000dpi

====Chiller====
* KT-5200 Electronic chiller
* Dimensions: 72X44X62 cm (L X W X H) (28.34" x 17.32" x 24.40")
* Looks very similar to the CW5000 so that user manual may be helpful https://noisebridge.net/wiki/File:CW_5000-5200_UserManual.pdf

====Exhaust Fan====
* 12 foot adjustable ventilation duct

=Resources=
Brochure for the Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter: 
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part1of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 1 of 2) ''(1.30MB)'']]
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part2of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 2 of 2) ''(855KB)'']]
* [http://www.kaitianlaser.com/2-cutting-engraving-machine-3.html Page!]

=Fundraising=
'''Pledge here for raising $6,000 buildout for our new laser cutter!'''

($4K for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge; $2K for direct room buildout)

Donations to the laser cutter project can be made [https://donate.noisebridge.net/projects/laser here] (also shows status of donations; currently <$2,500)

'''Donations are tax deductible'''

Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2016-07-04T08:22:45Z

Rubin110:

[[Image:LaserCutter_Top_Closed.JPG|right|thumb|400px|Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter]]
''This page contains information about Noisebridge's Full Spectrum Laser 40W laser. You might be looking for [[Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309]], our recently (July 2016) acquired 100W laser cutter.''

= Lasercutter =
'''Full Spectrum Laser 4th Generation 40W CO2 Laser Engraver - Deluxe Model'''

* [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W/Unofficial_Manual|Unofficial Manual]] - Written by an awesome hacker (hackers) outside of Noisebridge
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/co2laserv2-40w.html Product Site]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/forums/ Forums]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/lasersetupv2.html V4 Laser Download Page]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/files/FSL_40w_Hobby_Laser_Manual.pdf Manual] [[File:FSL 40w Hobby Laser Manual.pdf]]
* Drivers should be thrown onto Pony and the cutter machine once we get that setup.
* [https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B9dVau9GfnKxRVZCUVBPbnU3YjQ Driver Download]

== Safety information and training ==
We should have a bunch of helpful information here on safe operation of the device and who to go to to be trained on its use here.

Please visit [http://www.z136.org/ ANSI Z136 Safe Use of Lasers] and [http://www.laserinstitute.org/PDF/Z136_1_s.pdf Copy of ANSI Z136.1] for laser safety information.

''Here are [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W#Notes|notes on Laser Cutter Use]] uploaded on March 9, 2012''

* Please speak to one of the people who is experienced with this laser cutter before using it so we can show you where everything is, how to setup the software, how to use it without breaking it, basic safety tips, etc.

* Read the instructions first. [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/files/FSL_40w_Hobby_Laser_Manual.pdf Manual]

* Never turn the current up above 15 milliamps, that will fry the laser tube quickly. Usually just a few milliamps is more than enough power to do what you want. Using too much power on wood or paper will start a fire. Instead of turning up the power, turn down the speed and/or use multiple passes. Always use the minimum power you can do to the job to prevent unsightly burn marks and extend the life of the laser tube.

* Never operate the laser cutter unattended because sometimes things catch fire. A squirt bottle with water is kept next to the laser to put out small fires. A fire extinguisher is in the corner of the room for larger issues.

* If little flames shoot up off of your material, turn down the power. Little flames can start fires and will fog up the lens, which is difficult to clean.

* It is easy to make the laser head bang against the side or top of the unit. This causes an awful noise and must be very bad for the gears. If the laser cutter makes a banging noise, stop it immediately and reposition the laser head before the next cut, or resize the artwork.

* Do not cut plastics which create hazardous fumes when burned. Acrylic is ok. PVC and vinyl releases the very toxic gas phosgene when heated. As a general rule, chemical resistant plastics should not be put in the laser cutter.

* Be very careful with the silver honeycomb, especially when removing it from the machine to clean little bits of debris off of it. It bends very easily and once bent can not be straightened out completely. It is mostly a cosmetic issue, but pressing your thumb in the wrong place will cause permanent marks.

* Do not laser materials that make an excessive amount of smoke. A little smoke is ok, but a large amount can fog up the lens. If it is making a lot of smoke, use more passes at a lower power.

* When cutting paper, turn down the power to a couple milliamps, or it will catch fire.

* The proper operation of the laser requires you to start your cut with the energy nob set to the minimum setting, never turning it past half... If you turn it past half way... about 10-12mw the laser will die within the first few passes of printing

== Software - Windows - RetinaEngrave ==

Any program can print to the laser cutter, I had success using Inkscape and Gimp. Gimp is not very good for doing vector cuts, a major limitation. Inkscape is not the easiest software to learn but it is not difficult either.

==== Requirements ====

Windows XP or Windows 7

==== How to install ====

# Download and install USB drivers
# Download and install RetinaEngrave
# Download and install Direct Print drivers

==== How to use ====

'''Raster'''

# Get an image, any format
# Load the image into The Gimp and make any necessary changes
# Start RetinaEngrave
# Print the image to the Full Spectrum Engineering Driver
# Switch to RetinaEngrave. Set the speed to 75% or less. Press Go.

'''Vector'''

# Get an image, any format
# Start Inkscape and create a new A4 Landscape document
# Drag the image icon from Winows Explorer into the new document
# Select all. Go to the Path menu and select Trace Bitmap
# Print the image. Select the printer "Full Spectrum Engineering Driver"
# Switch to RetinaEngrave. Select the Vector tab.
# Set the speed on the right hand side. Press Go.

== Software - CUPS Driver ==
Amir Hassan and Marius Kintel are working on open source laser cutter drivers through the CUPS interface. Primarily they're working on getting it operational with an Epilog cutter, but would like to expand past that soon. [https://github.com/Metalab/ctrl-cut ctrl-cut]

== Software - OS X Driver - VisiCut ==
A possible OS X driver for our laser cutter.
https://amedeo.informatik.rwth-aachen.de/groups/visicut/

== Quirks ==

* Vector fonts with lots of curves can take a long time for RetinaEngrave to process before it starts cutting. For instance, a single 5 letter word in Arial takes only 3 seconds to start in raster but 30 seconds to start in vector. The same word in the Pokimon font takes just 5 seconds to start.

* If your PC is connected to the laser cutter with the usb cable, and you have the RetinaEngrave software and drivers installed, and you still can't get the machine to acknowledge you (e.g. you try to press the "jog" buttons and the laser head doesn't move) try these things:
** There is a button between the "jog right" and "jog left" button. It shifts between UNLOCK and LOCK. Togge it and try again!
** There is a big red emergency stop button on top of the laser cutter. It might be pressed down, which means the machine won't work. ''Twist'' the button to unpress it.

* It is easy to make the laser head bang against the side or top of the unit. Don't let it do that.

* If you are doing a raster engrave, you can not set the speed too high. Here is some artwork on paper, raster engrave, 250 dpi 85% speed: [http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/alanrockefeller/IMG_0190.jpg]. Here is the same image at 71% speed: [http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/alanrockefeller/IMG_0192.jpg]
At 500 dpi, 75% speed was too much. 72% was also too fast.
I also saw the problem at 250 dpi 71% and 1000 dpi 65%. Full spectrum engineering said on Feb 25 that this problem is caused by the belt being too tight. [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=310]

* You don't need to watch the laser every single second, but you should at least stay in the little room while it's on and keep a general eye on it. Why? Because if you're using something burnable, there's a chance it can catch fire. Which is bad.

* Turn off the machine when not in use. The air pump gets hot if left on for long periods. It is not quite hot enough to cause a problem, but it will last longer if it is not always on, and turning it off will keep dust from accumulating inside the laser unnecessarily.

== Things you can put in the laser cutter ==

* Paper (cardstock could have additives that should not go in the cutter, test a sample)
* Acrylic and several other plastics
* Wood (careful of fire, treated wood could have additives)
* Cotton
* Many other fabrics (not moleskin books because they can have high chlorine content)
* Cell phones (check for chlorine in the plastic)
* Laptops (check for chlorine in the plastic)
* Leather
* Glass
* Anodized/coated metal
* Chocolate
* Linoleum
* "Speedy-cut" rubber

== Things you should not put in the laser cutter ==

'''WARNING''': Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/identifying-unknown-plastics.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+makezineonline+%28MAKE%29&utm_content=Google+Reader a simple process].

{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1" align="center"
|-
! Material
! DANGER!
! Cause/Consequence
|-
| PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather/Moleskine notebooks
| Emits pure chlorine gas when cut!
| Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.
|-
| Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
| Cut very poorly, discolor, catch fire
| Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because ''polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation!'' This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting.
|-
| ABS
| Emits cyanide gas and tends to melt
| ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt).
|-
| HDPE/milk bottle plastic
| Catches fire and melts
| It melts. It gets gooey. Don't use it.
|-
| PolyStyrene Foam
| Catches fire
| It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
|-
| PolyPropylene Foam
| Catches fire
| Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.
|-
| Fiberglass
| Emits fumes
| It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)
|-
| Coated Carbon Fiber
| Emits noxious fumes
| A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.
|-
| Any powder
|
| the compressed air will blow it away
|-
| Bare metal
|
|
|-
| Animals
|
|
|-
| People
|
|
|-
| Butane lighters
|
|
|-
| Gasoline or other liquids
|
|
|}

== Tips ==

* Before putting your material into the laser cutter, test your image on paper. If you don't test on paper first you will ruin a lot of the material you are cutting. Once it looks good on paper you can place your material on the paper so you know it is positioned properly, and refocus if the material is thick.

* When engraving raster images, they go much faster if you use a lower DPI. The lowest setting is 250 DPI and that is enough for most things. Use higher DPI only with high resolution images and with materials that show the difference.

== To Do ==

* Build a table and shelves for the laser and laser materials
* Collect images that are good to use with the laser cutter

== Cutting power / speeds ==
''[http://wiki.nycresistor.com/wiki/Laser_Power NYCR's Laser Power table]''

* Typing paper - 100% speed, 3 milliamps
* 2mm acrylic - 25% speed, 8 milliamps
* 5/8ths inch acrylic - 1% speed, 12 milliamps, 2 passes
* Plastic with metalic coating - 5 - 7 milliamps rastor, 3 ma vector
* Linen - 70% speed, 4 milliamps, 1 pass
* 1/8″ plywood: Regulate the current to just a pinch under 15mA and use 3 Passes / 18.75% Speed / 100% power. The reduced speed (25% to 18.75% – a 25% reduction) seems to account for the needed power, while the reduced number of passes (also a 25% and thus proportional reduction) reduces the excess char that is produced by the laser. (figured out by elijah at noisebridge)
* "Speedy-cut" rubber - Raster: 15% speed, 3 milliamps, 1 pass.
* 1/16 inch basswood, to cut through: 34% speed, 14% power (of 15 milliamps max set on machine), 7 passes
* basswood to etch: 20% speed, 10% power (of 15 milliamps max set on machine), 1 pass

== Specifications ==

* Maximum material size: 13" x 16"
* Maximum engravable area: 9.5" x 14.5"
* Maximum material thickness: 2.75"
* CO2 Laser Wavelength: 10.6um
* Maximum Laser Power: 40W

''From a past laser page''

* Native 110VAC, no adapter required
* Lightweight, approximately 60 pounds
* Complete Unit includes:
** Completely redesigned to make maximum use of available interior space
** ~12"x16" max table area (new! 90% larger than the competition)
** manual Z lift table for focus adjustment
** Air Assist nozzle shoots air through the end of the lens to keep dirt away (optional air compressor extra)
** High quality spring mounted mirror mounts
** High end CO2 cutting lens ($250 value) and mirrors
** Magnetic deactivation safety switch automatically turns off laser when lid is open
** NEW: Higher all around construction quality.
** NEW: Mach3 and EMC2 compatible control card premounted
** NEW: Two self folding cable chain carriers to enclose air tubes and cables for increased reliability
** NEW: Premounted interior holes for RetinaEngrave USB
** NEW: Super mechanical quality than previous generations with dual harden steel rods for smoother Y axis movement
** FREE: Water pump included (only requires a bucket of water; running water not required)
** FREE: Visible red laser pointer mounted at the laser head included (optional beam combiner also available)
** FREE: Honeycomb table included (deluxe model only)
** FREE: Exhaust fan included! (deluxe model only)
** Requires PC with Parallel Printer Port or Optional RetinaEngrave USB Controller

== Photos ==
[[Image:LaserCutter_Top_Closed.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Top view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_Top_Open.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Top view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter with top open (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_Front.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Front view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_RightSide.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Right side view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_PowerParallelToUSBControllerPCB.JPG|thumb|center|500px|Power Parallel to USB Controller PCB for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_MainPowerMotherboardPCB_view1.JPG|thumb|center|500px|Power Main Motherboard PCB (view 1) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_MainPowerMotherboardPCB_view2.JPG|thumb|center|500px|Power Main Motherboard PCB (view 2) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_LaserTube_view1.JPG|center|thumb|500px|40W Laser Tube (view 1) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_LaserTube_view2.JPG|thumb|500px|center|40W Laser Tube (view 2) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 

== [[Talk:Lasercutter|Discussion]] ==
'''[[Talk:Lasercutter|On the Discussion page!]]'''

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

= Notes =
'''Notes on Using the Laser Cutter'''

''These notes written Friday, March 9, 2012 by [[User:Tony_Longshanks | Tony]] (anthonyletigre@gmail.com), adapted from demos / classes given by the famous Robert Rayce (robertayoungchu@gmail.com).''

First, '''have your art ready.''' There is currently only one laser cutter at Noisebridge and it is sometimes in high demand. It can take a great deal of time to print a single image on the Laser Cutter, particularly at the High (1000dpi) setting. Email your art or image files to yourself so that you can download them to the Laser Cutter computer. Most all image formats are usable – JPEG, GIF, PNG, TIF, etc. I typically use TIF files since they are higher resolution, print quality files, whereas JPEG and GIF are less so.

The computer currently attached to the Noisebridge Laser Cutter seems to save files as MAYA type by default. The program GIMP2/GNU can be used to edit those images as necessary (it's among the desktop icons). Open your art / image files with '''Retina Engrave''' (that's the Laser Cutter software program – also on the desktop). If they don't look right you can try adjusting the settings as detailed below, or else re-open them with GIMP2 or similar image editing program (Photoshop, Illustrator, Quark, etc.) to adjust before proceeding with laser cutting.

In Retina Engrave (RE), click on File > Open at the top left to select & open your art files. They'll most likely be in Documents > Downloads unless you saved them to the Desktop or another specific directory. Be sure to change the “Type of File” to “All Files” because the default file search is .XPS, and the directory window will only show files with that extension. (This is how it was at the time these notes were taken, anyway.)

RE automatically changes color art to black & white (this is not printing, it's engraving) and resizes the image to conform to an existing template. The file size you see on screen will not necessarily be the size of the printed image. You can zoom in or out on the image to see it in greater or less detail using the Zoom buttons on the upper left. (Rayce says not to use these – they don't work. It seems to me that they work for viewing on the screen, but don't affect the final print, which will be of the entire image.) You should already know the size from working with it in your image program previously. The maximum printable area that the NB Laser Cutter can accommodate is 9.5” high by 15” wide. It is advisable to keep your image slightly smaller than the maximum: a safe threshold for maximum image size is 8.5” or 9 “ high and no more than 14” wide.

There are two main Laser Cutter settings, depending on the type of image or engraving you're making: Raster (lighter, for general etching & engraving of images) and Vector (deeper cutting, more heavy duty - makes a stencil). They are the inverse of each other. The parts Raster etches away are the parts left by the Vector, and vice versa. (Unless I misunderstand this....)

Use the Trim button to crop the image, getting rid of white space or other empty areas of the image not necessary for the final product.

Adjust the Speed as you desire – Rayce says slower speed and less intensity is generally advisable for higher quality.

Threshold is like Contrast. Play around with it until your image looks the best to you.

Clicking Invert will make a photo-negative of your image: white areas turned to black and vice versa, as in Gimp and other image editing programs.

Be careful with the Quality setting as this will affect the time it takes to Laser Cut your image. High (1000dpi) can take a very long time – the better part of an hour to engrave a single large image. You would use this setting for intricate artwork, small text, anything where fine detail & clarity are key. Medium (500dpi) will work for average images, and Low (250dpi) ought to be fine for simpler artwork such as logos consisting of large letters, basic geometric shapes, that sort of thing.

Alan thinks that anything over 250 DPI is just wasting time and does not add to the quality or precision of the final piece.

The Jog controls on the upper right in the RE display control the movement of the cutter. They are like the Spacebar, Return, and Arrow keys on a keyboard, with the cutter being like the cursor on a computer screen. It's OK to use the Jog functions when the Laser Cutter lid is open, but don't ever activate the laser at such a time, or you can hurt yourself. This is a laser, and it cuts.

Open the lid of the Laser Cutter and place a piece of paper or other disposable material on the honeycomb platform for testing. Always leave a margin of at least one inch on the left side of the platform, otherwise the Laser Cutter can go offline or damage itself – you'll hear a loud ugly noise if this happens, warning you.

Now look at the knobs and controls on the right hand top of the Laser Cutter. The Current Regulator is the one you will use most during cutting. The Ampere Meter measures the current. It should never go above 15 millamps; doing so is equivalent to going “into the red” when recording music, and in this case, you don't want to be Iggy & the Stooges. Prior to printing, test by simultaneously pressing both the green buttons below the Ampere Meter and Current Regulator knob. The current won't engage unless both are pressed at the same time. Once engaged, the Ampere Meter should automatically jump up to a point between 0 and 15 millamps; this is the amount you should try to keep it at during cutting. It varies somewhat from image to image. Pay attention and adjust the Current Regulator as necessary during cutting, trying to stick close to the indicated level – 5 millamps is a typical amount.

Whenever you switch substrates (the material you engrave on, whether it be paper, mat board, plexiglass, wood, or anything else), it is necessary to focus the laser using the [ name of square-shaped metal thing ] and focus lever beneath the Laser Cutter. This lever lowers the cutting platform when turned to the Left, raises it when turned to the Right.

Be sure to check with Rayce or another knowledgeable Noisebridger if you aren't sure that a particular material is safe to print on. We want to use materials that are ROHS compliant - i.e. environmentally safe. Some materials can contain toxic compounds like lead, halogen, etc that should not be used in this way. There should be crates or bins near the Laser Cutter, very obvious to the eye, containing paper, wood, plastic and other scrap materials ready for use with the Laser Cutter. More technical info on this topic is available.

'''Attend the Laser Cutter during use to ensure safety - it's possible for the laser to ignite materials and cause a fire!'''

Be sure to do a test print, if not several, when you are first acquainting yourself with the use of the Laser Cutter. Play around with the Current Regulator knob during cutting, turning it all the way to the left in order to reduce cutting to zero (no mark on the surface of your printing substrate), then increasing it by turning to the right (but not past 15 millamps!) for maximum penetration. If you are printing on a single sheet of paper or other thin substrate, the high current level will cut straight through, creating a stencil type image.

On the computer screen, in the Retina Engrave window, use Go and Cancel to start or stop the Laser Cutter.

''The section below is in progress / draft form:''

You can create etched images from which to make prints, if you have a flatbed roller press. Coat the etched image with ink, scrape off excess, leaving the etched areas filled with ink which will then be printed (via the force applied by the print rollers) onto printmaking paper or other material of your choice. This is similar to the process used for linoleum block printing, copper plate etching, and other traditional printmaking techniques.

=Repairs=
''This section withholds the documentation to reclaim the glorious days of the Full Spectrum Engineer Laser MLE-40''
==How You Can Help!==
[[File:MLE-40-Rev6_0-fullspeceng_LPT_Driver_Board_Top.jpg|thumb|left]]
[[File:MLE-40-Rev6_0-fullspeceng_LPT_Driver_Board_Bottom.jpg|thumb|left]]

'''Credit card donations can be paypal'ed to Mitch directly.'''
PayPal donate as 'friend or family' to avoid charges.
Add a note "laser cutter repair."

$237.37 - Replacement Tube

$400.00 - Laser Cutter Missing Hardware

?Additional costs, shipping, etc?

$'''637.37''' - Current Total as ''11/23/2015''

=== Donors & Amounts Given to Fix Cutter ===
       ''Please add to the donations, if you feel you can!''
{| style="color:#006060; background-color:#ffd6e1;" cellpadding="10" cellspacing="0" border="1"
! Amount Donated
! Name of provider
|-
! $xxx
! Joe Schmoe
|-
|}

Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309

2016-07-04T08:10:27Z

Rubin110:

[[Image:Kaitian.jpg|300px|right|Kaitian CM1309]]

''This page contains information about Noisebridge's Kaitian 100W laser. You might be looking for [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W|Full Spectrum Laser]], our older laser cutter, or information about our [[Resources/Network#Monkeybrains_Wireless_Link|gigabit laser uplink to the internet]].''

'''Some friends of Noisebridge from China have donate a really nice brand new, fully supported, laser cutter to Noisebridge!'''

In February of 2016 we were approached by [http://www.kaitianlaser.com/ Beijing Kaitian Tech. Co., Ltd], after Mitch gave them a tour of Noisebridge they offered us a new 100w laser cutter as a donation (with the stipulation of us taking care of shipping costs). As of July 1st 2016 (and after a crazy adventure involving a rental truck, a forklift, and a lot of Indian pizza), we now have the laser in house. Please check out our action items to see what needs to happen next.

=Current Action Items=
* Review what else needs to happen to get the laser installed and the area in the Sparkle Forge it sits in happy
* Source some computer gear and a new monitor
** Rubin has a plan for a pair of Intel NUCs (running Windows for reliability and Linux for hackability) and have it securly mounted to monitor
* Start the process of documentation
** Safety
** Training
** Materials
** Donations for laser time and expendables
** How to schedule time
** How to actually use the damn thing
* Discussion about ACL
* Some work to better figure out the laser software
* Fundraising for the remainder of the $4000 plus extra for expendables

====Done Items====
* Get someone who knows enough about structural engineering to look at the place we want to use the laser cutter at Noisebridge, and let us know if the floor can handle the 1,000 pounds weight of the machine.
* Raise $4,000 for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge. This will get the laser to us, and give us full support from Kaitian.
** We've raised about $1500 so far
* Build a room for it, with some sound insulation and ventilation that can handle the fumes.
** The laser current lives in the Sparkle Forge.
* Come up with a plan for the room, and raise funds for buildout of the room.

=Specs=
====Machine====
* Laser: 100W
* Working area: 1300mm × 900mm × 210mm / 51.1811in × 35.4331in × 8.26772in
* Table size: 1360mm × 1080mm / 53.54331in × 42.51969in
* Function: Engraving/Cutting
* Workpiece maximum weight: 25kg / 55.1156lbs
* Cutting speed (cm/min): ≤4800
* Resolution ratio: 4000dpi

====Chiller====
* KT-5200 Electronic chiller
* Dimensions: 72X44X62 cm (L X W X H) (28.34" x 17.32" x 24.40")
* Looks very similar to the CW5000 so that user manual may be helpful https://noisebridge.net/wiki/File:CW_5000-5200_UserManual.pdf

====Exhaust Fan====
* 12 foot adjustable ventilation duct

=Resources=
Brochure for the Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter: 
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part1of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 1 of 2) ''(1.30MB)'']]
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part2of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 2 of 2) ''(855KB)'']]
* [http://www.kaitianlaser.com/2-cutting-engraving-machine-3.html Page!]

=Fundraising=
'''Pledge here for raising $6,000 buildout for our new laser cutter!'''

($4K for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge; $2K for direct room buildout)

Donations to the laser cutter project can be made [https://donate.noisebridge.net/projects/laser here] (also shows status of donations; currently <$2,500)

'''Donations are tax deductible'''

Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309

2016-07-04T08:02:16Z

Rubin110:

[[Image:Kaitian.jpg|300px|right|Kaitian CM1309]]

''This page contains information about Noisebridge's Kaitian 100W laser. You might be looking for [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W|Full Spectrum Laser]], our older laser cutter, or information about our [[Resources/Network#Monkeybrains_Wireless_Link|gigabit laser uplink to the internet]].''

'''Some friends of Noisebridge from China have donate a really nice brand new, fully supported, laser cutter to Noisebridge!'''

In February of 2016 we were approached by [http://www.kaitianlaser.com/ Beijing Kaitian Tech. Co., Ltd], after Mitch gave them a tour of Noisebridge they offered us a new 100w laser cutter as a donation (with the stipulation of us taking care of shipping costs). As of July 1st 2016, we now have the laser in house. Please check out our action items to see what needs to happen next.

=Current Action Items=
* Review what else needs to happen to get the laser installed and the area in the Sparkle Forge it sits in happy
* Source some computer gear and a new monitor
** Rubin has a plan for a pair of Intel NUCs (running Windows for reliability and Linux for hackability) and have it securly mounted to monitor
* Start the process of documentation
** Safety
** Training
** Materials
** Donations for laser time and expendables
** How to schedule time
** How to actually use the damn thing
* Discussion about ACL
* Some work to better figure out the laser software
* Fundraising for the remainder of the $4000 plus extra for expendables

====Done Items====
* Get someone who knows enough about structural engineering to look at the place we want to use the laser cutter at Noisebridge, and let us know if the floor can handle the 1,000 pounds weight of the machine.
* Raise $4,000 for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge. This will get the laser to us, and give us full support from Kaitian.
** We've raised about $1500 so far
* Build a room for it, with some sound insulation and ventilation that can handle the fumes.
** The laser current lives in the Sparkle Forge.
* Come up with a plan for the room, and raise funds for buildout of the room.

=Specs=
====Machine====
* Laser: 100W
* Working area: 1300mm × 900mm × 210mm / 51.1811in × 35.4331in × 8.26772in
* Table size: 1360mm × 1080mm / 53.54331in × 42.51969in
* Function: Engraving/Cutting
* Workpiece maximum weight: 25kg / 55.1156lbs
* Cutting speed (cm/min): ≤4800
* Resolution ratio: 4000dpi

====Chiller====
* KT-5200 Electronic chiller
* Dimensions: 72X44X62 cm (L X W X H) (28.34" x 17.32" x 24.40")
* Looks very similar to the CW5000 so that user manual may be helpful https://noisebridge.net/wiki/File:CW_5000-5200_UserManual.pdf

====Exhaust Fan====
* 12 foot adjustable ventilation duct

=Resources=
Brochure for the Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter: 
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part1of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 1 of 2) ''(1.30MB)'']]
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part2of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 2 of 2) ''(855KB)'']]
* [http://www.kaitianlaser.com/2-cutting-engraving-machine-3.html Page!]

=Fundraising=
'''Pledge here for raising $6,000 buildout for our new laser cutter!'''

($4K for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge; $2K for direct room buildout)

Donations to the laser cutter project can be made [https://donate.noisebridge.net/projects/laser here] (also shows status of donations; currently <$2,500)

'''Donations are tax deductible'''

Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309

2016-07-04T07:58:32Z

Rubin110: /* Specs */

[[Image:Kaitian.jpg|300px|right|Kaitian CM1309]]

''This page contains information about Noisebridge's Kaitian 100W laser. You might be looking for [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W|Full Spectrum Laser]], our older laser cutter, or information about our [[Resources/Network#Monkeybrains_Wireless_Link|gigabit laser uplink to the internet]].''

'''Some friends of Noisebridge from China have donate a really nice brand new, fully supported, laser cutter to Noisebridge!'''

In February of 2016 we were approached by Kaitlian, after Mitch gave them a tour of Noisebridge they offered us a new 100w laser cutter as a donation (with the stipulation of us taking care of shipping costs). As of July 1st 2016, we now have the laser in house. Please check out our action items to see what needs to happen next.

=Current Action Items=
* Review what else needs to happen to get the laser installed and the area in the Sparkle Forge it sits in happy
* Source some computer gear and a new monitor
** Rubin has a plan for a pair of Intel NUCs (running Windows for reliability and Linux for hackability) and have it securly mounted to monitor
* Start the process of documentation
** Safety
** Training
** Materials
** Donations for laser time and expendables
** How to schedule time
** How to actually use the damn thing
* Discussion about ACL
* Some work to better figure out the laser software
* Fundraising for the remainder of the $4000 plus extra for expendables

====Done Items====
* Get someone who knows enough about structural engineering to look at the place we want to use the laser cutter at Noisebridge, and let us know if the floor can handle the 1,000 pounds weight of the machine.
* Raise $4,000 for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge. This will get the laser to us, and give us full support from Kaitian.
** We've raised about $1500 so far
* Build a room for it, with some sound insulation and ventilation that can handle the fumes.
** The laser current lives in the Sparkle Forge.
* Come up with a plan for the room, and raise funds for buildout of the room.

=Specs=
====Machine====
* Laser: 100W
* Working area: 1300mm × 900mm × 210mm / 51.1811in × 35.4331in × 8.26772in
* Table size: 1360mm × 1080mm / 53.54331in × 42.51969in
* Function: Engraving/Cutting
* Workpiece maximum weight: 25kg / 55.1156lbs
* Cutting speed (cm/min): ≤4800
* Resolution ratio: 4000dpi

====Chiller====
* KT-5200 Electronic chiller
* Dimensions: 72X44X62 cm (L X W X H) (28.34" x 17.32" x 24.40")
* Looks very similar to the CW5000 so that user manual may be helpful https://noisebridge.net/wiki/File:CW_5000-5200_UserManual.pdf

====Exhaust Fan====
* 12 foot adjustable ventilation duct

=Resources=
Brochure for the Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter: 
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part1of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 1 of 2) ''(1.30MB)'']]
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part2of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 2 of 2) ''(855KB)'']]
* [http://www.kaitianlaser.com/2-cutting-engraving-machine-3.html Page!]

=Fundraising=
'''Pledge here for raising $6,000 buildout for our new laser cutter!'''

($4K for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge; $2K for direct room buildout)

Donations to the laser cutter project can be made [https://donate.noisebridge.net/projects/laser here] (also shows status of donations; currently <$2,500)

'''Donations are tax deductible'''

Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309

2016-07-04T07:50:50Z

Rubin110:

[[Image:Kaitian.jpg|300px|right|Kaitian CM1309]]

''This page contains information about Noisebridge's Kaitian 100W laser. You might be looking for [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W|Full Spectrum Laser]], our older laser cutter, or information about our [[Resources/Network#Monkeybrains_Wireless_Link|gigabit laser uplink to the internet]].''

'''Some friends of Noisebridge from China have donate a really nice brand new, fully supported, laser cutter to Noisebridge!'''

In February of 2016 we were approached by Kaitlian, after Mitch gave them a tour of Noisebridge they offered us a new 100w laser cutter as a donation (with the stipulation of us taking care of shipping costs). As of July 1st 2016, we now have the laser in house. Please check out our action items to see what needs to happen next.

=Current Action Items=
* Review what else needs to happen to get the laser installed and the area in the Sparkle Forge it sits in happy
* Source some computer gear and a new monitor
** Rubin has a plan for a pair of Intel NUCs (running Windows for reliability and Linux for hackability) and have it securly mounted to monitor
* Start the process of documentation
** Safety
** Training
** Materials
** Donations for laser time and expendables
** How to schedule time
** How to actually use the damn thing
* Discussion about ACL
* Some work to better figure out the laser software
* Fundraising for the remainder of the $4000 plus extra for expendables

====Done Items====
* Get someone who knows enough about structural engineering to look at the place we want to use the laser cutter at Noisebridge, and let us know if the floor can handle the 1,000 pounds weight of the machine.
* Raise $4,000 for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge. This will get the laser to us, and give us full support from Kaitian.
** We've raised about $1500 so far
* Build a room for it, with some sound insulation and ventilation that can handle the fumes.
** The laser current lives in the Sparkle Forge.
* Come up with a plan for the room, and raise funds for buildout of the room.

=Specs=
====Machine Dimensions====

====Chiller====
* KT-5200 Electronic chiller
* Dimensions: 72X44X62 cm (L X W X H) (28.34" x 17.32" x 24.40")
* Looks very similar to the CW5000 so that user manual may be helpful https://noisebridge.net/wiki/File:CW_5000-5200_UserManual.pdf

====Exhaust Fan====
* 12 foot adjustable ventilation duct

====Compressor====

=Resources=
Brochure for the Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter: 
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part1of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 1 of 2) ''(1.30MB)'']]
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part2of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 2 of 2) ''(855KB)'']]
* [http://www.kaitianlaser.com/2-cutting-engraving-machine-3.html Page!]

=Fundraising=
'''Pledge here for raising $6,000 buildout for our new laser cutter!'''

($4K for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge; $2K for direct room buildout)

Donations to the laser cutter project can be made [https://donate.noisebridge.net/projects/laser here] (also shows status of donations; currently <$2,500)

'''Donations are tax deductible'''

Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309

2016-07-04T07:31:32Z

Rubin110: Cleaning up this page

File:Kaitian.jpg

2016-07-04T07:19:59Z

Rubin110:

Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309

2016-07-04T07:17:02Z

Rubin110:

''This page contains information about Noisebridge's Kaitian 100W laser. You might be looking for [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W|Full Spectrum Laser]], our older laser cutter, or information about our [[Resources/Network#Monkeybrains_Wireless_Link|gigabit laser uplink to the internet]].''

<nowiki>Insert non-formatted text here</nowiki>:'''Some Chinese friends of Noisebridge want to donate a really nice brand new, fully supported, laser cutter to Noisebridge!'''

This is what it looks like:
[[Image:KAITIAN_CM1309.PNG|450px|center|Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter]]

 
Before we can accept this donation, we need to do 2 things:

* Get someone who knows enough about structural engineering to look at the place we want to use the laser cutter at Noisebridge, and let us know if the floor can handle the 1,000 pounds weight of the machine.
* Raise $4,000 for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge. This will get the laser to us, and give us full support from Kaitian.

 
Before we can actually use the laser cutter, we need to:

* Build a room for it, with some sound insulation and ventilation that can handle the fumes.
* Come up with a plan for the room, and raise funds for buildout of the room.
 

== Full specs for the Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter ==
Brochure for the Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter: 
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part1of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 1 of 2) ''(1.30MB)'']]
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part2of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 2 of 2) ''(855KB)'']]
* [http://www.kaitianlaser.com/2-cutting-engraving-machine-3.html Page!]
* Machine Dimensions:

Chiller:
* KT-5200 Electronic chiller
* Dimensions: 72X44X62 cm (L X W X H) (28.34" x 17.32" x 24.40")
* Looks very similar to the CW5000 so that user manual may be helpful https://noisebridge.net/wiki/File:CW_5000-5200_UserManual.pdf

Exhaust Fan:
* 12 foot adjustable ventilation duct

Compressor

 

== Pledge here for raising $6,000 buildout for our new laser cutter! ==
($4K for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge; $2K for direct room buildout)
 

 
Donations to the laser cutter project can be made [https://donate.noisebridge.net/projects/laser here] (also shows status of donations; currently <$2,500) 
'''Donations are tax deductible'''

Lasercutter

2016-07-04T07:16:16Z

Rubin110: Redirected page to Laser Cutter

#REDIRECT [[Laser_Cutter]]

Laser Cutter

2016-07-04T07:15:21Z

Rubin110: Created page with "This is an indexing page. You're possibly looking for... * Kaitian CM1309 100W laser - Our newer, bigger, more functional laser cutter * [[Las..."

This is an indexing page. You're possibly looking for...

* [[Laser_Cutter/Kaitian_CM1309|Kaitian CM1309 100W laser]] - Our newer, bigger, more functional laser cutter
* [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W|Full Spectrum Laser 40W]] - our older, smaller, less functional laser cutter
* [[Resources/Network#Monkeybrains_Wireless_Link|Point to point laser uplink]] - our gigabit link out to the internet

Laser

2016-07-04T07:11:11Z

Rubin110: Restructuring laser pages in order to making the Kaitian content more predominant. All old information will be retained and redirected to.

#redirect [[Laser_Cutter/Kaitian_CM1309]]

Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309

2016-07-04T07:10:14Z

Rubin110:

''This page contains information about Noisebridge's Kaitian 100W laser. You might be looking for [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W]], our older laser cutter, or information about our [[Resources/Network#Monkeybrains_Wireless_Link|gigabit laser uplink to the internet]].''

<nowiki>Insert non-formatted text here</nowiki>:'''Some Chinese friends of Noisebridge want to donate a really nice brand new, fully supported, laser cutter to Noisebridge!'''

This is what it looks like:
[[Image:KAITIAN_CM1309.PNG|450px|center|Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter]]

 
Before we can accept this donation, we need to do 2 things:

* Get someone who knows enough about structural engineering to look at the place we want to use the laser cutter at Noisebridge, and let us know if the floor can handle the 1,000 pounds weight of the machine.
* Raise $4,000 for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge. This will get the laser to us, and give us full support from Kaitian.

 
Before we can actually use the laser cutter, we need to:

* Build a room for it, with some sound insulation and ventilation that can handle the fumes.
* Come up with a plan for the room, and raise funds for buildout of the room.
 

== Full specs for the Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter ==
Brochure for the Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter: 
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part1of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 1 of 2) ''(1.30MB)'']]
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part2of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 2 of 2) ''(855KB)'']]
* [http://www.kaitianlaser.com/2-cutting-engraving-machine-3.html Page!]
* Machine Dimensions:

Chiller:
* KT-5200 Electronic chiller
* Dimensions: 72X44X62 cm (L X W X H) (28.34" x 17.32" x 24.40")
* Looks very similar to the CW5000 so that user manual may be helpful https://noisebridge.net/wiki/File:CW_5000-5200_UserManual.pdf

Exhaust Fan:
* 12 foot adjustable ventilation duct

Compressor

 

== Pledge here for raising $6,000 buildout for our new laser cutter! ==
($4K for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge; $2K for direct room buildout)
 

 
Donations to the laser cutter project can be made [https://donate.noisebridge.net/projects/laser here] (also shows status of donations; currently <$2,500) 
'''Donations are tax deductible'''

Resources/Network

2016-07-04T07:09:05Z

Rubin110: /* Monkeybrains Wireless Link */

This page was certified [https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/rack/2016-March/003152.html 100% current and up to date] by [[User:Rubin110]] at Sun Mar 6 07:58:59 UTC 2016.

If you're reading this from another point in time, please note that the reality of the situation may be different.

__TOC__

== [[Network Troubleshooting]] ==

Are you having issues with the internet or local network? Check out the [[Network Troubleshooting]] page for more information on what you can do to make things better or possibly seek help.

== Disclaimer ==

''Please note that Noisebridge does not guarantee or provide a perfect secure experience in the space. Just like anywhere else in the world you're held responsible for your own safety and wellbeing. This also includes content you receive or transmit or provide through any mediums, such as through pen and paper, sound waves or any networks wired or wireless functioning in the space. Noisebridge is a volunteer run and operated space that provides you with infrastructure, which you use at your own risk.''

== Free Public Wireless Networks ==
Noisebridge has two open wifi networks available for your use. In most cases if you connect to the network '''Noisebridge''' your laptop/phone/device will have the best luck getting crystal clear wifi and roam between radio channels according to which provides the most reliable and fastest connection.

The wifi and internet provided is for public use. Like any public network, you should regard Noisebridge's as [[Visitor_advice#Hostile_network|potentially hostile]] and take appropriate precautions. In order to not give the impression of providing false security, Noisebridge does not run any encrypted wifi networks.

The following networks are active:
* '''Noisebridge'''
** No password
** Uplink through Monkeybrains gigabit laser
** 802.11an 5 gHz only
* '''Noisebridge Legacy 2.4 gHz'''
** No password
** Uplink through Monkeybrains gigabit laser
** 802.11an 2.4 gHz only

== Wired network ==
There are drops throughout the space. They are labeled with the corresponding number on the patch panel. Please don't destroy them (lol).

== Local Network Address Information ==
DHCP is offered automatically on the network, if that doesn't work for you here's some more static information...

* IP Range: 10.20.1.200-10.20.1.254
* Gateway: 10.20.0.1
* Subnet: 255.255.'''254'''.0 (a "slash" /23)
* DNS: 10.20.0.1,208.69.43.23,208.69.40.4,8.8.8.8

Dynamic DNS is provided by the router for DHCP clients on 10.20.0.1/23 which also provides name resolution of some local machines.

== Development ==
* See [[Network/testing]].

==Network Devices & Services==
* [[Music]]
* [[2D Paper Printer]]
* [[Infrastructure]]

= 2169 Mission =

== Uplinks ==
=== Monkeybrains Wireless Link ===
We have a point-to-point wireless link to Monkeybrains on the roof, it's a gigabit laser, think of fiber without the physical medium of glass. It is wired into the Monkeybrains NEMA box on the roof, and from there into our own NEMA box in which we house a managed switch. From there the cable enters into the space through the ladder chute in the fox lounge and runs to the rack where it enters the switchboard at port 48. Port 48 is a second redundant run that follows the same path from the rack back to our NEMA box for future projects.

=== SFBroadband / City of SF / Internet Archive ===

We have a wireless point-to-point path up to Twin Peaks that connects up to a city-owned and volunteer-run IP transit network. Currently, we're hitting the dish off of the side and have a pretty terrible connection. For now, this network path is mostly only usable as a backup path.

There is a router in our wireless CPE hardware (st01-noisebridge-sfo) that connects up to the Noisebridge network and terminates as 172.30.0.54 on the "Inside / Internal" network. Set your default route via this IP to try the other path.

==I want to help!==
Noisebridge is run by volunteers, you're welcome to help but should get to know those helping first before touching/hacking the network gear. Try introducing yourself on the [rack mailing list https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/rack].

== Router ==
Biketrailer is our humble router. It is an Ubiquiti Edgerouter 5-port box running EdgeOS, a fork of Vyatta (a Linux-based router distribution). While the router does provide PoE, it is non-standard passive Ubiquiti PoE which you should avoid using.

The machines currently provides
* NAT
* DHCPD
* DNS (dnsmasq) - .noise local TLD and recursive proxy

Access is via SSH with keys and a https web interface.

== Address Allocations ==
===WAN - Monkeybrains===
* Network range: 192.195.83.129/29
* Gateway: 192.195.83.129
* DNS: 208.69.43.23,208.69.40.4
* Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.248

====Addresses====
* 192.195.83.130 - 2169.noisebridge.net - biketrailer offering some port forawrding
* 192.195.83.131 - roof switch
* 192.195.83.132 - mode/s receiver
* 192.195.83.133 - unused
* 192.195.83.134 - pegasus.noisebridge.net - pegasus 1 to 1 NAT

===LAN - 10.20.0.0/22===
====10.20.0.0 - 0.100 Statically address services====

''Note: This is '''not''' a /24 subnet! The netmask is a /23.''

* 10.20.0.1 - biketrailer
* 10.20.0.10 - earl
* 10.20.0.11 - West-AP
* 10.20.0.12 - Church-AP
* 10.20.0.13 - Central-AP
* 10.20.0.22 - pegasus
* 10.20.0.24 - hackitorium-rpi
* 10.20.0.25 - noisebridge-printer-brother
* 10.20.0.31 - kitsune
* 10.20.0.41 - noisebridgebbs
* 10.20.0.42 - flaschen-taschen
* 10.20.0.43 - noisebridge-kiosk-1 / noiseboard
* 10.20.0.44 - square (Noisesquare table)
* 10.20.0.45 - bookcase (LEDs on the library bookcase)
* 10.20.0.46 - noisebridge-kiosk-2

====10.20.0.51 - 1.199====
* DHCP-assigned, user-access IP space

====10.20.1.200 - 1.254====
* Available for adhoc manual IP address configurations.

=== IPv6 ===
We would like to setup IPv6, some day.

== Machine Rack ==
The rack sits on the South wall, it's small and up high to discourage people from messing with it or installing things in it. The internet works, please leave the box alone.

===Can I install/setup boxes on Noisebridge's network?===
====Short answer====
'''No.'''

====Long answer====
Noisebridge is here to provide infrastructure for creative projects. We're really good at some things. One thing we suck at is administrating boxes setup on our network. They eat power, internet, the attention span of volunteers, and people who set them up generally are bad at communicating later on down the line when something breaks or a machine magically appears.

Noisebridge network infrastructure policy is as such:
* Critical infrastructure machines (like our access control system): Low power ok!
* Machines for classes that cannot be hosted on the internet: Low power ok!
* Personal machines: NO!
* High power machines: NO!
* Bitcoin minors: NO!
* Torrent boxes: NO!
* Everything else: NO!

If a machine gets setup on the network without first getting an ok from the [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/rack rack list], it will be unplugged and thrown in the trash. Please don't host your box at Noisebridge. We can't afford it. Thanks for understanding.

===Rack setup===
* Patch panel
* Shitty Fucked Dell 48 port switch
* Pegasus
* Shelf with Biketrailer and POE injectors
* Shelf with random RaspberryPis for projects
* Speaker amp
* Power strip
* UPS

Lasercutter

2016-07-04T07:04:58Z

Rubin110: Redirected page to Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309

#REDIRECT [[Laser_Cutter/Kaitian_CM1309]]

Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2016-07-04T07:03:47Z

Rubin110:

''This page contains information about Noisebridge's Full Spectrum Laser 40W laser. You might be looking for [[Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309]], our recently (July 2016) acquired 100W laser cutter.''

= Lasercutter =
'''Full Spectrum Laser 4th Generation 40W CO2 Laser Engraver - Deluxe Model'''

* [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W/Unofficial_Manual|Unofficial Manual]] - Written by an awesome hacker (hackers) outside of Noisebridge
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/co2laserv2-40w.html Product Site]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/forums/ Forums]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/lasersetupv2.html V4 Laser Download Page]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/files/FSL_40w_Hobby_Laser_Manual.pdf Manual] [[File:FSL 40w Hobby Laser Manual.pdf]]
* Drivers should be thrown onto Pony and the cutter machine once we get that setup.
* [https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B9dVau9GfnKxRVZCUVBPbnU3YjQ Driver Download]

== Safety information and training ==
We should have a bunch of helpful information here on safe operation of the device and who to go to to be trained on its use here.

Please visit [http://www.z136.org/ ANSI Z136 Safe Use of Lasers] and [http://www.laserinstitute.org/PDF/Z136_1_s.pdf Copy of ANSI Z136.1] for laser safety information.

''Here are [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W#Notes|notes on Laser Cutter Use]] uploaded on March 9, 2012''

* Please speak to one of the people who is experienced with this laser cutter before using it so we can show you where everything is, how to setup the software, how to use it without breaking it, basic safety tips, etc.

* Read the instructions first. [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/files/FSL_40w_Hobby_Laser_Manual.pdf Manual]

* Never turn the current up above 15 milliamps, that will fry the laser tube quickly. Usually just a few milliamps is more than enough power to do what you want. Using too much power on wood or paper will start a fire. Instead of turning up the power, turn down the speed and/or use multiple passes. Always use the minimum power you can do to the job to prevent unsightly burn marks and extend the life of the laser tube.

* Never operate the laser cutter unattended because sometimes things catch fire. A squirt bottle with water is kept next to the laser to put out small fires. A fire extinguisher is in the corner of the room for larger issues.

* If little flames shoot up off of your material, turn down the power. Little flames can start fires and will fog up the lens, which is difficult to clean.

* It is easy to make the laser head bang against the side or top of the unit. This causes an awful noise and must be very bad for the gears. If the laser cutter makes a banging noise, stop it immediately and reposition the laser head before the next cut, or resize the artwork.

* Do not cut plastics which create hazardous fumes when burned. Acrylic is ok. PVC and vinyl releases the very toxic gas phosgene when heated. As a general rule, chemical resistant plastics should not be put in the laser cutter.

* Be very careful with the silver honeycomb, especially when removing it from the machine to clean little bits of debris off of it. It bends very easily and once bent can not be straightened out completely. It is mostly a cosmetic issue, but pressing your thumb in the wrong place will cause permanent marks.

* Do not laser materials that make an excessive amount of smoke. A little smoke is ok, but a large amount can fog up the lens. If it is making a lot of smoke, use more passes at a lower power.

* When cutting paper, turn down the power to a couple milliamps, or it will catch fire.

* The proper operation of the laser requires you to start your cut with the energy nob set to the minimum setting, never turning it past half... If you turn it past half way... about 10-12mw the laser will die within the first few passes of printing

== Software - Windows - RetinaEngrave ==

Any program can print to the laser cutter, I had success using Inkscape and Gimp. Gimp is not very good for doing vector cuts, a major limitation. Inkscape is not the easiest software to learn but it is not difficult either.

==== Requirements ====

Windows XP or Windows 7

==== How to install ====

# Download and install USB drivers
# Download and install RetinaEngrave
# Download and install Direct Print drivers

==== How to use ====

'''Raster'''

# Get an image, any format
# Load the image into The Gimp and make any necessary changes
# Start RetinaEngrave
# Print the image to the Full Spectrum Engineering Driver
# Switch to RetinaEngrave. Set the speed to 75% or less. Press Go.

'''Vector'''

# Get an image, any format
# Start Inkscape and create a new A4 Landscape document
# Drag the image icon from Winows Explorer into the new document
# Select all. Go to the Path menu and select Trace Bitmap
# Print the image. Select the printer "Full Spectrum Engineering Driver"
# Switch to RetinaEngrave. Select the Vector tab.
# Set the speed on the right hand side. Press Go.

== Software - CUPS Driver ==
Amir Hassan and Marius Kintel are working on open source laser cutter drivers through the CUPS interface. Primarily they're working on getting it operational with an Epilog cutter, but would like to expand past that soon. [https://github.com/Metalab/ctrl-cut ctrl-cut]

== Software - OS X Driver - VisiCut ==
A possible OS X driver for our laser cutter.
https://amedeo.informatik.rwth-aachen.de/groups/visicut/

== Quirks ==

* Vector fonts with lots of curves can take a long time for RetinaEngrave to process before it starts cutting. For instance, a single 5 letter word in Arial takes only 3 seconds to start in raster but 30 seconds to start in vector. The same word in the Pokimon font takes just 5 seconds to start.

* If your PC is connected to the laser cutter with the usb cable, and you have the RetinaEngrave software and drivers installed, and you still can't get the machine to acknowledge you (e.g. you try to press the "jog" buttons and the laser head doesn't move) try these things:
** There is a button between the "jog right" and "jog left" button. It shifts between UNLOCK and LOCK. Togge it and try again!
** There is a big red emergency stop button on top of the laser cutter. It might be pressed down, which means the machine won't work. ''Twist'' the button to unpress it.

* It is easy to make the laser head bang against the side or top of the unit. Don't let it do that.

* If you are doing a raster engrave, you can not set the speed too high. Here is some artwork on paper, raster engrave, 250 dpi 85% speed: [http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/alanrockefeller/IMG_0190.jpg]. Here is the same image at 71% speed: [http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/alanrockefeller/IMG_0192.jpg]
At 500 dpi, 75% speed was too much. 72% was also too fast.
I also saw the problem at 250 dpi 71% and 1000 dpi 65%. Full spectrum engineering said on Feb 25 that this problem is caused by the belt being too tight. [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=310]

* You don't need to watch the laser every single second, but you should at least stay in the little room while it's on and keep a general eye on it. Why? Because if you're using something burnable, there's a chance it can catch fire. Which is bad.

* Turn off the machine when not in use. The air pump gets hot if left on for long periods. It is not quite hot enough to cause a problem, but it will last longer if it is not always on, and turning it off will keep dust from accumulating inside the laser unnecessarily.

== Things you can put in the laser cutter ==

* Paper (cardstock could have additives that should not go in the cutter, test a sample)
* Acrylic and several other plastics
* Wood (careful of fire, treated wood could have additives)
* Cotton
* Many other fabrics (not moleskin books because they can have high chlorine content)
* Cell phones (check for chlorine in the plastic)
* Laptops (check for chlorine in the plastic)
* Leather
* Glass
* Anodized/coated metal
* Chocolate
* Linoleum
* "Speedy-cut" rubber

== Things you should not put in the laser cutter ==

'''WARNING''': Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/identifying-unknown-plastics.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+makezineonline+%28MAKE%29&utm_content=Google+Reader a simple process].

{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1" align="center"
|-
! Material
! DANGER!
! Cause/Consequence
|-
| PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather/Moleskine notebooks
| Emits pure chlorine gas when cut!
| Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.
|-
| Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
| Cut very poorly, discolor, catch fire
| Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because ''polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation!'' This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting.
|-
| ABS
| Emits cyanide gas and tends to melt
| ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt).
|-
| HDPE/milk bottle plastic
| Catches fire and melts
| It melts. It gets gooey. Don't use it.
|-
| PolyStyrene Foam
| Catches fire
| It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
|-
| PolyPropylene Foam
| Catches fire
| Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.
|-
| Fiberglass
| Emits fumes
| It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)
|-
| Coated Carbon Fiber
| Emits noxious fumes
| A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.
|-
| Any powder
|
| the compressed air will blow it away
|-
| Bare metal
|
|
|-
| Animals
|
|
|-
| People
|
|
|-
| Butane lighters
|
|
|-
| Gasoline or other liquids
|
|
|}

== Tips ==

* Before putting your material into the laser cutter, test your image on paper. If you don't test on paper first you will ruin a lot of the material you are cutting. Once it looks good on paper you can place your material on the paper so you know it is positioned properly, and refocus if the material is thick.

* When engraving raster images, they go much faster if you use a lower DPI. The lowest setting is 250 DPI and that is enough for most things. Use higher DPI only with high resolution images and with materials that show the difference.

== To Do ==

* Build a table and shelves for the laser and laser materials
* Collect images that are good to use with the laser cutter

== Cutting power / speeds ==
''[http://wiki.nycresistor.com/wiki/Laser_Power NYCR's Laser Power table]''

* Typing paper - 100% speed, 3 milliamps
* 2mm acrylic - 25% speed, 8 milliamps
* 5/8ths inch acrylic - 1% speed, 12 milliamps, 2 passes
* Plastic with metalic coating - 5 - 7 milliamps rastor, 3 ma vector
* Linen - 70% speed, 4 milliamps, 1 pass
* 1/8″ plywood: Regulate the current to just a pinch under 15mA and use 3 Passes / 18.75% Speed / 100% power. The reduced speed (25% to 18.75% – a 25% reduction) seems to account for the needed power, while the reduced number of passes (also a 25% and thus proportional reduction) reduces the excess char that is produced by the laser. (figured out by elijah at noisebridge)
* "Speedy-cut" rubber - Raster: 15% speed, 3 milliamps, 1 pass.
* 1/16 inch basswood, to cut through: 34% speed, 14% power (of 15 milliamps max set on machine), 7 passes
* basswood to etch: 20% speed, 10% power (of 15 milliamps max set on machine), 1 pass

== Specifications ==

* Maximum material size: 13" x 16"
* Maximum engravable area: 9.5" x 14.5"
* Maximum material thickness: 2.75"
* CO2 Laser Wavelength: 10.6um
* Maximum Laser Power: 40W

''From a past laser page''

* Native 110VAC, no adapter required
* Lightweight, approximately 60 pounds
* Complete Unit includes:
** Completely redesigned to make maximum use of available interior space
** ~12"x16" max table area (new! 90% larger than the competition)
** manual Z lift table for focus adjustment
** Air Assist nozzle shoots air through the end of the lens to keep dirt away (optional air compressor extra)
** High quality spring mounted mirror mounts
** High end CO2 cutting lens ($250 value) and mirrors
** Magnetic deactivation safety switch automatically turns off laser when lid is open
** NEW: Higher all around construction quality.
** NEW: Mach3 and EMC2 compatible control card premounted
** NEW: Two self folding cable chain carriers to enclose air tubes and cables for increased reliability
** NEW: Premounted interior holes for RetinaEngrave USB
** NEW: Super mechanical quality than previous generations with dual harden steel rods for smoother Y axis movement
** FREE: Water pump included (only requires a bucket of water; running water not required)
** FREE: Visible red laser pointer mounted at the laser head included (optional beam combiner also available)
** FREE: Honeycomb table included (deluxe model only)
** FREE: Exhaust fan included! (deluxe model only)
** Requires PC with Parallel Printer Port or Optional RetinaEngrave USB Controller

== Photos ==
[[Image:LaserCutter_Top_Closed.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Top view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_Top_Open.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Top view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter with top open (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_Front.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Front view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_RightSide.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Right side view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_PowerParallelToUSBControllerPCB.JPG|thumb|center|500px|Power Parallel to USB Controller PCB for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_MainPowerMotherboardPCB_view1.JPG|thumb|center|500px|Power Main Motherboard PCB (view 1) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_MainPowerMotherboardPCB_view2.JPG|thumb|center|500px|Power Main Motherboard PCB (view 2) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_LaserTube_view1.JPG|center|thumb|500px|40W Laser Tube (view 1) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_LaserTube_view2.JPG|thumb|500px|center|40W Laser Tube (view 2) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 

== [[Talk:Lasercutter|Discussion]] ==
'''[[Talk:Lasercutter|On the Discussion page!]]'''

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

= Notes =
'''Notes on Using the Laser Cutter'''

''These notes written Friday, March 9, 2012 by [[User:Tony_Longshanks | Tony]] (anthonyletigre@gmail.com), adapted from demos / classes given by the famous Robert Rayce (robertayoungchu@gmail.com).''

First, '''have your art ready.''' There is currently only one laser cutter at Noisebridge and it is sometimes in high demand. It can take a great deal of time to print a single image on the Laser Cutter, particularly at the High (1000dpi) setting. Email your art or image files to yourself so that you can download them to the Laser Cutter computer. Most all image formats are usable – JPEG, GIF, PNG, TIF, etc. I typically use TIF files since they are higher resolution, print quality files, whereas JPEG and GIF are less so.

The computer currently attached to the Noisebridge Laser Cutter seems to save files as MAYA type by default. The program GIMP2/GNU can be used to edit those images as necessary (it's among the desktop icons). Open your art / image files with '''Retina Engrave''' (that's the Laser Cutter software program – also on the desktop). If they don't look right you can try adjusting the settings as detailed below, or else re-open them with GIMP2 or similar image editing program (Photoshop, Illustrator, Quark, etc.) to adjust before proceeding with laser cutting.

In Retina Engrave (RE), click on File > Open at the top left to select & open your art files. They'll most likely be in Documents > Downloads unless you saved them to the Desktop or another specific directory. Be sure to change the “Type of File” to “All Files” because the default file search is .XPS, and the directory window will only show files with that extension. (This is how it was at the time these notes were taken, anyway.)

RE automatically changes color art to black & white (this is not printing, it's engraving) and resizes the image to conform to an existing template. The file size you see on screen will not necessarily be the size of the printed image. You can zoom in or out on the image to see it in greater or less detail using the Zoom buttons on the upper left. (Rayce says not to use these – they don't work. It seems to me that they work for viewing on the screen, but don't affect the final print, which will be of the entire image.) You should already know the size from working with it in your image program previously. The maximum printable area that the NB Laser Cutter can accommodate is 9.5” high by 15” wide. It is advisable to keep your image slightly smaller than the maximum: a safe threshold for maximum image size is 8.5” or 9 “ high and no more than 14” wide.

There are two main Laser Cutter settings, depending on the type of image or engraving you're making: Raster (lighter, for general etching & engraving of images) and Vector (deeper cutting, more heavy duty - makes a stencil). They are the inverse of each other. The parts Raster etches away are the parts left by the Vector, and vice versa. (Unless I misunderstand this....)

Use the Trim button to crop the image, getting rid of white space or other empty areas of the image not necessary for the final product.

Adjust the Speed as you desire – Rayce says slower speed and less intensity is generally advisable for higher quality.

Threshold is like Contrast. Play around with it until your image looks the best to you.

Clicking Invert will make a photo-negative of your image: white areas turned to black and vice versa, as in Gimp and other image editing programs.

Be careful with the Quality setting as this will affect the time it takes to Laser Cut your image. High (1000dpi) can take a very long time – the better part of an hour to engrave a single large image. You would use this setting for intricate artwork, small text, anything where fine detail & clarity are key. Medium (500dpi) will work for average images, and Low (250dpi) ought to be fine for simpler artwork such as logos consisting of large letters, basic geometric shapes, that sort of thing.

Alan thinks that anything over 250 DPI is just wasting time and does not add to the quality or precision of the final piece.

The Jog controls on the upper right in the RE display control the movement of the cutter. They are like the Spacebar, Return, and Arrow keys on a keyboard, with the cutter being like the cursor on a computer screen. It's OK to use the Jog functions when the Laser Cutter lid is open, but don't ever activate the laser at such a time, or you can hurt yourself. This is a laser, and it cuts.

Open the lid of the Laser Cutter and place a piece of paper or other disposable material on the honeycomb platform for testing. Always leave a margin of at least one inch on the left side of the platform, otherwise the Laser Cutter can go offline or damage itself – you'll hear a loud ugly noise if this happens, warning you.

Now look at the knobs and controls on the right hand top of the Laser Cutter. The Current Regulator is the one you will use most during cutting. The Ampere Meter measures the current. It should never go above 15 millamps; doing so is equivalent to going “into the red” when recording music, and in this case, you don't want to be Iggy & the Stooges. Prior to printing, test by simultaneously pressing both the green buttons below the Ampere Meter and Current Regulator knob. The current won't engage unless both are pressed at the same time. Once engaged, the Ampere Meter should automatically jump up to a point between 0 and 15 millamps; this is the amount you should try to keep it at during cutting. It varies somewhat from image to image. Pay attention and adjust the Current Regulator as necessary during cutting, trying to stick close to the indicated level – 5 millamps is a typical amount.

Whenever you switch substrates (the material you engrave on, whether it be paper, mat board, plexiglass, wood, or anything else), it is necessary to focus the laser using the [ name of square-shaped metal thing ] and focus lever beneath the Laser Cutter. This lever lowers the cutting platform when turned to the Left, raises it when turned to the Right.

Be sure to check with Rayce or another knowledgeable Noisebridger if you aren't sure that a particular material is safe to print on. We want to use materials that are ROHS compliant - i.e. environmentally safe. Some materials can contain toxic compounds like lead, halogen, etc that should not be used in this way. There should be crates or bins near the Laser Cutter, very obvious to the eye, containing paper, wood, plastic and other scrap materials ready for use with the Laser Cutter. More technical info on this topic is available.

'''Attend the Laser Cutter during use to ensure safety - it's possible for the laser to ignite materials and cause a fire!'''

Be sure to do a test print, if not several, when you are first acquainting yourself with the use of the Laser Cutter. Play around with the Current Regulator knob during cutting, turning it all the way to the left in order to reduce cutting to zero (no mark on the surface of your printing substrate), then increasing it by turning to the right (but not past 15 millamps!) for maximum penetration. If you are printing on a single sheet of paper or other thin substrate, the high current level will cut straight through, creating a stencil type image.

On the computer screen, in the Retina Engrave window, use Go and Cancel to start or stop the Laser Cutter.

''The section below is in progress / draft form:''

You can create etched images from which to make prints, if you have a flatbed roller press. Coat the etched image with ink, scrape off excess, leaving the etched areas filled with ink which will then be printed (via the force applied by the print rollers) onto printmaking paper or other material of your choice. This is similar to the process used for linoleum block printing, copper plate etching, and other traditional printmaking techniques.

=Repairs=
''This section withholds the documentation to reclaim the glorious days of the Full Spectrum Engineer Laser MLE-40''
==How You Can Help!==
[[File:MLE-40-Rev6_0-fullspeceng_LPT_Driver_Board_Top.jpg|thumb|left]]
[[File:MLE-40-Rev6_0-fullspeceng_LPT_Driver_Board_Bottom.jpg|thumb|left]]

'''Credit card donations can be paypal'ed to Mitch directly.'''
PayPal donate as 'friend or family' to avoid charges.
Add a note "laser cutter repair."

$237.37 - Replacement Tube

$400.00 - Laser Cutter Missing Hardware

?Additional costs, shipping, etc?

$'''637.37''' - Current Total as ''11/23/2015''

=== Donors & Amounts Given to Fix Cutter ===
       ''Please add to the donations, if you feel you can!''
{| style="color:#006060; background-color:#ffd6e1;" cellpadding="10" cellspacing="0" border="1"
! Amount Donated
! Name of provider
|-
! $xxx
! Joe Schmoe
|-
|}

Talk:FSLaser Unofficial manual

2016-07-04T06:52:26Z

Rubin110: Rubin110 moved page Talk:FSLaser Unofficial manual to Talk:Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/Unofficial Manual: Restructuring laser pages in order to making the Kaitian content more predominant. All old information will be retained and redir...

#REDIRECT [[Talk:Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/Unofficial Manual]]

Talk:Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/Unofficial Manual

2016-07-04T06:52:26Z

As of June 2013 - the laser cutter is broken and we need to replace the FSE USB Ctrl. I am trying to find the price and where to get it - it seems to be a branded, specialized part from the manufacturer.

[[File:Lasercutter_usb_controller.jpg|thumb|right|we need to fix the lasercutter's full spectrum eng usb controller]]

FSLaser Unofficial manual

2016-07-04T06:52:26Z

Rubin110: Rubin110 moved page FSLaser Unofficial manual to Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/Unofficial Manual: Restructuring laser pages in order to making the Kaitian content more predominant. All old information will be retained and redirected to.

#REDIRECT [[Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/Unofficial Manual]]

Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/Unofficial Manual

2016-07-04T06:52:26Z

= Note =
hi, hope you don't mind me abusing your wiki a little.. I own a FS laser, many hacker spaces seem to as well.. and there are a lot of tips scattered around as well as the official manual.. but i found in using these sources i never had one good reference for common issues.. i hope to steal heavily from these sources and compile them into one document that is not on a moderated bulletin board.. I'm planning on working on this over time.. i hope its not a total wreck when you find it ;)

I know there are no images now, i intend to take some as to not steal directly from FS laser's actual manual.

= Safety =
.. i should probably have something here.. but safety third i suppose

=Preventative Maintenance=
== Water Reservoir ==
check that your water bucket and hoses with your hands, make sure there isn't any slippery biofilms, or obvious alge issues, you can prevent and treat these issues using _*EITHER*_ a small amount of hydrogen peroxide, or a small amount of bleach.. in either case exposure to the laser will eventually degrade these chemicals so they will need to be checked and replaced periodically.

Its also good to make sure that your water bucket is full.. running your laser without water moving through it can shorten the life dramatically. not to mention preventing "catastrophic failure" of the laser tube.

If your bucket has a crusty film marking where the waterline previously was (due to loss from evaporation) consider rinsing the laser with distilled water and and a small amount of vinegar; rinse with distilled water; then replace the reservoir water with clean distilled water.

Also, run your water for about 30 minutes after you are finished cutting with your laser, to ensure that it is sufficiently cooled and to prolong the laser tube's life.

== Rails and Bearings ==
Probably need something in here, what is the best type of lubricant to use?

= Aligning Your Laser =
(this procedure is mostly the same as documented by fslaser)

== Vertical alignment ==
remove the lens from the carriage head and replace it with thermal paper as was used in previous alignment steps, ensure that the test fire pattern of the laser hits the middle of the hole where the lens would be; the darkened paper image should have no half-moon shaped, non-darkened areas.. if this is the case your angled mirror will need to be shimmed before you will get decent cuts.

== Laser Power Settings ==

= Tightening Your Laser =

==Laser Head==
The laserhead has 4 plastic wheels. These attach to an eccentric pin through a small Phillips (crosshead) screw. If you rotate these eccentric pins then it will tighten or loosen against the aluminum X axis rail. These eccentric pins are held in position by a set screw with a hex head 90degrees from the top Philips screw. Remove the setscrew before attempting to adjust the eccentric pins. The eccentric pins need to be adjusted by inserting an extremely short FLAT head screwdriver through the BOTTOM. If you adjust the crosshead screw from on top it will have extremely limited motion for adjustment. Tighten the top crosshead screw then do all further adjustments from the bottom. To remove the pins, turn from the bottom to loosen then push from the bottom to remove.

# Loosen the 4 eccentric pins by using the short screwdriver from the bottom. The laserhead will not be clamped to the X axis gantry anymore.
# Adjust the top 2 eccentric screws so they that the laserhead is straight with the X axis. Since they are eccentric you want the laserhead platform straight otherwise the belt will be pulled at a angle.
# Adjust the bottom 2 eccentric screws so that the laserhead is as loose as possible but all 4 wheels are just barely still rolling.
# Insert the 4x set screws with the hex heads back and tighten. Note that by putting the set screws back in it will tighten the eccentric pins slightly so that is why we say adjust as loose as possible but still rolling in step 3.
# Test it out and ensure the X axis is not binding during rastering. If you would like you can insert some WEAK thread locking glue on the screws.

==X-Axis==
In some cases, the belt tension might need adjustment on initial receipt. Movement should be smooth and not grainy or overly difficult. If the laser engraves at lower speed but at 100% speed the laser seems to jerk or stall, the belt tension should be loosened. If engraving lines do not appear straight, the belt tension should probably be increased. Adjust the bolts shown in the picture with a 3mm hex key. Purchase a long hex key and there is an access hole on the right hand side of the machine. Turning clockwise increases the belt tension.

==Y-Axis==
To tighten the Y-Axis you may need a special long handled allen wrench unless you have exceptionally long allen keys. to the rear of the laser there are two round holes on either side located roughly where the belt tensioning mechanicanism is located; you must adjust the belts on both sides to the same tension as any difference in tension will cause the engraver to "parallelogram" jobs.

== Lens ==
While its not mentioned anywhere.. the lens in the hobby laser is essentially free floating, cushioned only by a rubber washer in the head, this can cause problems in the print quality later if the lens doesn't settle flat; or if the lens wiggles due to vibration during cutting. The method i used to solve this was to make an ABS glue using acetone and small chunks of natural colored ABS feedstock from my makerbot which resulted in a thin white glue. Using three very small dabs around the perimeter of the lens was more then enough to hold the lens in place.. and daily breaks away from both the metal and the glass lens when its time to replace them.

= Focusing Your Laser =

= Changing The Laser Tube =
On my 40-watt hobby laser, I noticed that the laser beam was losing power, and engravings that used to be darker were now very light to almost nonexistent at the same power settings. I also heard what sounded like electricity arcing (a buzzing sound) somewhere in the machine when I test-fired the laser, which, while being a vary bad thing, also indicated that power was not going through the tube, but bypassing it. (If you hear an arcing sound, do not press the test button anymore, because, if you haven't done it already, you will most likely fry the USB circuit board, among other things, which is exactly what I did.)

Rather than spend $300 on a 40-watt CO2 tube from the company, I bought the exact same tube on ebay from china for less than half the price. It arrived at my house in about a week or so.

To change the tube, I first unplugged the machine (make sure to do this) and carefully took off all of the cooling water hoses, noting exactly where they attached to the old tube. Next, I cut the wires connecting the machine to the old tube. After loosening the straps holding the tube to the machine, I lifted it out, and replaced it with the new tube, making sure not to touch the beam-emitting end of the tube. Next, I cleaned the terminals and stripped the wire-ends, so that fresh wire was exposed. Before twisting the wire around the terminals, I slipped a piece of silicone tubing over the wires, so that, after I attached the wires to the terminals, I would be able to pull the silicone tubing back over the exposed connections. Heat-shrink tubing will also work in a similar way.

NOTE: It may be necessary to connect the new tube outside of the machine, due to the lack of working room for one's hands inside.

There is more than one way to connect your terminal-ends to the wiring. The best way is to solder these connections. Soldered connections don't become weak with oxidation. The main problem is that the terminals are very thick, and difficult to heat up sufficiently with a soldering iron. There is also the possibility of overheating the terminal and cracking the glass tube, which would be no fun.

To solder the connections, you will need something that can really heat up the ends, so that the solder, with the help of some flux, will stick to the terminals and fuse to the wire, causing a bond. I went the quick and dirty way and wrapped my wires around the clean terminals, then pulled the heat-shrink tubing over them, which I then shrank with a lighter. After this, I pulled the silicone tubing over the heat-shrink tubing and temporarily taped the silicone tubing in place onto the laser-tube before filling the silicone tubing with 100% silicone caulk around the connection as an added insulator and as an adhesive. My goal was to keep the connections from oxidizing over time and to insulate them so that electricity didn't arc to the body of the machine when the current ran through the connections. After letting this dry, I re-attached the water tubes to the proper nipples, and tested my tube, which is still working fine, several months later.

There is some possibility that you will need to realign your beam. Before adjusting your mirrors, I recommend that you re-position your tube into the same place that the old one was before, which should line it up correctly with your mirrors, since they were already lined up with your old tube.

= Quality Testing Procedures =
== Raster Speed and Alignment ==
Raster engraving QR codes at full speed and low power into wood or cardboard can be used to test how well the head is positioning itself. To perform this test:
# download SVG file and print it using Inkscape
# print at a low enough power not to burn the test material, but enough to brown; but be sure to print at 100% speed.
# check the alignment of the laser engraver by looking at the finished engraving along the edge's a well aligned laser head will have perfectly straight lines along both dimensions;
# if you have any wobble, or wondering in the test pattern, adjust your X and Y belt tension, in general tighter is better

= Cutting Times =

= Trouble Shooting =
== Cut lines do not overlap perfectly on repeats when cutting through thick material ==
check the X and Y platform belt tension, belts should be taut but not tight like a guitar string (it should not vibrate when plucked) this is the easiest and most likely cause.

Also check the head alignment, if the head itself isn't tight agains the track it can cause some backlash (wiggle) in the head position as the belt changes direction.

check that your lens is firmly in place and not actually vibrating in the lens holder.. a vibrating lens can easily be the cause of ugly and misaligned cuts.

== Head thrashes during a raster engrave, seems to get stuck causing the belt to slip and buzz ==
the laser head is binding, there can really only be two causes for this issue, either the laser head (carriage) is binding because the X-axis belt is too lose, or the carriage itself is not aligned, or is lose on the track, to fix this see "aligning the laser".

== The engraver turns lights on but no longer cuts anything ==
Sometimes the engraver can blow a fuse and there is no indicator to tell you that it has occurred.. there is also no real mention on where the fuse is..
but this is the most likely cause of this problem.. if changing the fuse does not fix the problem, or the fuse blows again immediately after installation you probably have a bad power supply.. tough luck.

Laser Cutter Repair Page

2016-07-04T06:50:45Z

Rubin110: Restructuring laser pages in order to making the Kaitian content more predominant. All old information will be retained and redirected to.

#REDIRECT [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W#Repairs]]

Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2016-07-04T06:50:06Z

Rubin110: Repairs

= Latest News =

''' New Lasercutter: Kaitian CM1309SH ''' : 1 Head, 100 watt

* We are working on getting a new Lasercutter in June 2016. Here is more information regarding that project. https://noisebridge.net/wiki/Lasercutter_Kaitian_CM1309

* The laser cutter has needed love for some time. Here is the link to the new repair page: [[Laser Cutter Repair Page]]

* Right now we need more vinyl, please donate to Casey.

= Lasercutter =
'''[[Lasercutter/V4 Full Spectrum Laser 40W|Full Spectrum Laser 4th Generation 40W CO2 Laser Engraver - Deluxe Model]]'''

* [[FSLaser Unofficial manual|Unofficial manual]] (maintained on this wiki)
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/co2laserv2-40w.html Product Site]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/forums/ Forums]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/lasersetupv2.html V4 Laser Download Page]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/files/FSL_40w_Hobby_Laser_Manual.pdf Manual] [[File:FSL 40w Hobby Laser Manual.pdf]]
* Drivers should be thrown onto Pony and the cutter machine once we get that setup.
* [https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B9dVau9GfnKxRVZCUVBPbnU3YjQ Driver Download]

== Safety information and training ==
We should have a bunch of helpful information here on safe operation of the device and who to go to to be trained on its use here.

Please visit [http://www.z136.org/ ANSI Z136 Safe Use of Lasers] and [http://www.laserinstitute.org/PDF/Z136_1_s.pdf Copy of ANSI Z136.1] for laser safety information.

''Here are [[Lasercutter/Notes | notes on Laser Cutter Use]] uploaded on March 9, 2012''

* Please speak to one of the people who is experienced with this laser cutter before using it so we can show you where everything is, how to setup the software, how to use it without breaking it, basic safety tips, etc.

* Read the instructions first. [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/files/FSL_40w_Hobby_Laser_Manual.pdf Manual]

* Never turn the current up above 15 milliamps, that will fry the laser tube quickly. Usually just a few milliamps is more than enough power to do what you want. Using too much power on wood or paper will start a fire. Instead of turning up the power, turn down the speed and/or use multiple passes. Always use the minimum power you can do to the job to prevent unsightly burn marks and extend the life of the laser tube.

* Never operate the laser cutter unattended because sometimes things catch fire. A squirt bottle with water is kept next to the laser to put out small fires. A fire extinguisher is in the corner of the room for larger issues.

* If little flames shoot up off of your material, turn down the power. Little flames can start fires and will fog up the lens, which is difficult to clean.

* It is easy to make the laser head bang against the side or top of the unit. This causes an awful noise and must be very bad for the gears. If the laser cutter makes a banging noise, stop it immediately and reposition the laser head before the next cut, or resize the artwork.

* Do not cut plastics which create hazardous fumes when burned. Acrylic is ok. PVC and vinyl releases the very toxic gas phosgene when heated. As a general rule, chemical resistant plastics should not be put in the laser cutter.

* Be very careful with the silver honeycomb, especially when removing it from the machine to clean little bits of debris off of it. It bends very easily and once bent can not be straightened out completely. It is mostly a cosmetic issue, but pressing your thumb in the wrong place will cause permanent marks.

* Do not laser materials that make an excessive amount of smoke. A little smoke is ok, but a large amount can fog up the lens. If it is making a lot of smoke, use more passes at a lower power.

* When cutting paper, turn down the power to a couple milliamps, or it will catch fire.

* The proper operation of the laser requires you to start your cut with the energy nob set to the minimum setting, never turning it past half... If you turn it past half way... about 10-12mw the laser will die within the first few passes of printing

== Software - Windows - RetinaEngrave ==

Any program can print to the laser cutter, I had success using Inkscape and Gimp. Gimp is not very good for doing vector cuts, a major limitation. Inkscape is not the easiest software to learn but it is not difficult either.

==== Requirements ====

Windows XP or Windows 7

==== How to install ====

# Download and install USB drivers
# Download and install RetinaEngrave
# Download and install Direct Print drivers

==== How to use ====

'''Raster'''

# Get an image, any format
# Load the image into The Gimp and make any necessary changes
# Start RetinaEngrave
# Print the image to the Full Spectrum Engineering Driver
# Switch to RetinaEngrave. Set the speed to 75% or less. Press Go.

'''Vector'''

# Get an image, any format
# Start Inkscape and create a new A4 Landscape document
# Drag the image icon from Winows Explorer into the new document
# Select all. Go to the Path menu and select Trace Bitmap
# Print the image. Select the printer "Full Spectrum Engineering Driver"
# Switch to RetinaEngrave. Select the Vector tab.
# Set the speed on the right hand side. Press Go.

== Software - CUPS Driver ==
Amir Hassan and Marius Kintel are working on open source laser cutter drivers through the CUPS interface. Primarily they're working on getting it operational with an Epilog cutter, but would like to expand past that soon. [https://github.com/Metalab/ctrl-cut ctrl-cut]

== Software - OS X Driver - VisiCut ==
A possible OS X driver for our laser cutter.
https://amedeo.informatik.rwth-aachen.de/groups/visicut/

== Quirks ==

* Vector fonts with lots of curves can take a long time for RetinaEngrave to process before it starts cutting. For instance, a single 5 letter word in Arial takes only 3 seconds to start in raster but 30 seconds to start in vector. The same word in the Pokimon font takes just 5 seconds to start.

* If your PC is connected to the laser cutter with the usb cable, and you have the RetinaEngrave software and drivers installed, and you still can't get the machine to acknowledge you (e.g. you try to press the "jog" buttons and the laser head doesn't move) try these things:
** There is a button between the "jog right" and "jog left" button. It shifts between UNLOCK and LOCK. Togge it and try again!
** There is a big red emergency stop button on top of the laser cutter. It might be pressed down, which means the machine won't work. ''Twist'' the button to unpress it.

* It is easy to make the laser head bang against the side or top of the unit. Don't let it do that.

* If you are doing a raster engrave, you can not set the speed too high. Here is some artwork on paper, raster engrave, 250 dpi 85% speed: [http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/alanrockefeller/IMG_0190.jpg]. Here is the same image at 71% speed: [http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/alanrockefeller/IMG_0192.jpg]
At 500 dpi, 75% speed was too much. 72% was also too fast.
I also saw the problem at 250 dpi 71% and 1000 dpi 65%. Full spectrum engineering said on Feb 25 that this problem is caused by the belt being too tight. [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=310]

* You don't need to watch the laser every single second, but you should at least stay in the little room while it's on and keep a general eye on it. Why? Because if you're using something burnable, there's a chance it can catch fire. Which is bad.

* Turn off the machine when not in use. The air pump gets hot if left on for long periods. It is not quite hot enough to cause a problem, but it will last longer if it is not always on, and turning it off will keep dust from accumulating inside the laser unnecessarily.

== Things you can put in the laser cutter ==

* Paper (cardstock could have additives that should not go in the cutter, test a sample)
* Acrylic and several other plastics
* Wood (careful of fire, treated wood could have additives)
* Cotton
* Many other fabrics (not moleskin books because they can have high chlorine content)
* Cell phones (check for chlorine in the plastic)
* Laptops (check for chlorine in the plastic)
* Leather
* Glass
* Anodized/coated metal
* Chocolate
* Linoleum
* "Speedy-cut" rubber

== Things you should not put in the laser cutter ==

'''WARNING''': Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/identifying-unknown-plastics.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+makezineonline+%28MAKE%29&utm_content=Google+Reader a simple process].

{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1" align="center"
|-
! Material
! DANGER!
! Cause/Consequence
|-
| PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather/Moleskine notebooks
| Emits pure chlorine gas when cut!
| Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.
|-
| Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
| Cut very poorly, discolor, catch fire
| Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because ''polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation!'' This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting.
|-
| ABS
| Emits cyanide gas and tends to melt
| ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt).
|-
| HDPE/milk bottle plastic
| Catches fire and melts
| It melts. It gets gooey. Don't use it.
|-
| PolyStyrene Foam
| Catches fire
| It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
|-
| PolyPropylene Foam
| Catches fire
| Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.
|-
| Fiberglass
| Emits fumes
| It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)
|-
| Coated Carbon Fiber
| Emits noxious fumes
| A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.
|-
| Any powder
|
| the compressed air will blow it away
|-
| Bare metal
|
|
|-
| Animals
|
|
|-
| People
|
|
|-
| Butane lighters
|
|
|-
| Gasoline or other liquids
|
|
|}

== Tips ==

* Before putting your material into the laser cutter, test your image on paper. If you don't test on paper first you will ruin a lot of the material you are cutting. Once it looks good on paper you can place your material on the paper so you know it is positioned properly, and refocus if the material is thick.

* When engraving raster images, they go much faster if you use a lower DPI. The lowest setting is 250 DPI and that is enough for most things. Use higher DPI only with high resolution images and with materials that show the difference.

== To Do ==

* Build a table and shelves for the laser and laser materials
* Collect images that are good to use with the laser cutter

== Cutting power / speeds ==
''[http://wiki.nycresistor.com/wiki/Laser_Power NYCR's Laser Power table]''

* Typing paper - 100% speed, 3 milliamps
* 2mm acrylic - 25% speed, 8 milliamps
* 5/8ths inch acrylic - 1% speed, 12 milliamps, 2 passes
* Plastic with metalic coating - 5 - 7 milliamps rastor, 3 ma vector
* Linen - 70% speed, 4 milliamps, 1 pass
* 1/8″ plywood: Regulate the current to just a pinch under 15mA and use 3 Passes / 18.75% Speed / 100% power. The reduced speed (25% to 18.75% – a 25% reduction) seems to account for the needed power, while the reduced number of passes (also a 25% and thus proportional reduction) reduces the excess char that is produced by the laser. (figured out by elijah at noisebridge)
* "Speedy-cut" rubber - Raster: 15% speed, 3 milliamps, 1 pass.
* 1/16 inch basswood, to cut through: 34% speed, 14% power (of 15 milliamps max set on machine), 7 passes
* basswood to etch: 20% speed, 10% power (of 15 milliamps max set on machine), 1 pass

== Specifications ==

* Maximum material size: 13" x 16"
* Maximum engravable area: 9.5" x 14.5"
* Maximum material thickness: 2.75"
* CO2 Laser Wavelength: 10.6um
* Maximum Laser Power: 40W

''From a past laser page''

* Native 110VAC, no adapter required
* Lightweight, approximately 60 pounds
* Complete Unit includes:
** Completely redesigned to make maximum use of available interior space
** ~12"x16" max table area (new! 90% larger than the competition)
** manual Z lift table for focus adjustment
** Air Assist nozzle shoots air through the end of the lens to keep dirt away (optional air compressor extra)
** High quality spring mounted mirror mounts
** High end CO2 cutting lens ($250 value) and mirrors
** Magnetic deactivation safety switch automatically turns off laser when lid is open
** NEW: Higher all around construction quality.
** NEW: Mach3 and EMC2 compatible control card premounted
** NEW: Two self folding cable chain carriers to enclose air tubes and cables for increased reliability
** NEW: Premounted interior holes for RetinaEngrave USB
** NEW: Super mechanical quality than previous generations with dual harden steel rods for smoother Y axis movement
** FREE: Water pump included (only requires a bucket of water; running water not required)
** FREE: Visible red laser pointer mounted at the laser head included (optional beam combiner also available)
** FREE: Honeycomb table included (deluxe model only)
** FREE: Exhaust fan included! (deluxe model only)
** Requires PC with Parallel Printer Port or Optional RetinaEngrave USB Controller

== Photos ==
[[Image:LaserCutter_Top_Closed.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Top view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_Top_Open.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Top view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter with top open (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_Front.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Front view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_RightSide.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Right side view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_PowerParallelToUSBControllerPCB.JPG|thumb|center|500px|Power Parallel to USB Controller PCB for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_MainPowerMotherboardPCB_view1.JPG|thumb|center|500px|Power Main Motherboard PCB (view 1) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_MainPowerMotherboardPCB_view2.JPG|thumb|center|500px|Power Main Motherboard PCB (view 2) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_LaserTube_view1.JPG|center|thumb|500px|40W Laser Tube (view 1) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_LaserTube_view2.JPG|thumb|500px|center|40W Laser Tube (view 2) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 

== [[Talk:Lasercutter|Discussion]] ==
'''[[Talk:Lasercutter|On the Discussion page!]]'''

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

= Notes =
'''Notes on Using the Laser Cutter'''

''These notes written Friday, March 9, 2012 by [[User:Tony_Longshanks | Tony]] (anthonyletigre@gmail.com), adapted from demos / classes given by the famous Robert Rayce (robertayoungchu@gmail.com).''

First, '''have your art ready.''' There is currently only one laser cutter at Noisebridge and it is sometimes in high demand. It can take a great deal of time to print a single image on the Laser Cutter, particularly at the High (1000dpi) setting. Email your art or image files to yourself so that you can download them to the Laser Cutter computer. Most all image formats are usable – JPEG, GIF, PNG, TIF, etc. I typically use TIF files since they are higher resolution, print quality files, whereas JPEG and GIF are less so.

The computer currently attached to the Noisebridge Laser Cutter seems to save files as MAYA type by default. The program GIMP2/GNU can be used to edit those images as necessary (it's among the desktop icons). Open your art / image files with '''Retina Engrave''' (that's the Laser Cutter software program – also on the desktop). If they don't look right you can try adjusting the settings as detailed below, or else re-open them with GIMP2 or similar image editing program (Photoshop, Illustrator, Quark, etc.) to adjust before proceeding with laser cutting.

In Retina Engrave (RE), click on File > Open at the top left to select & open your art files. They'll most likely be in Documents > Downloads unless you saved them to the Desktop or another specific directory. Be sure to change the “Type of File” to “All Files” because the default file search is .XPS, and the directory window will only show files with that extension. (This is how it was at the time these notes were taken, anyway.)

RE automatically changes color art to black & white (this is not printing, it's engraving) and resizes the image to conform to an existing template. The file size you see on screen will not necessarily be the size of the printed image. You can zoom in or out on the image to see it in greater or less detail using the Zoom buttons on the upper left. (Rayce says not to use these – they don't work. It seems to me that they work for viewing on the screen, but don't affect the final print, which will be of the entire image.) You should already know the size from working with it in your image program previously. The maximum printable area that the NB Laser Cutter can accommodate is 9.5” high by 15” wide. It is advisable to keep your image slightly smaller than the maximum: a safe threshold for maximum image size is 8.5” or 9 “ high and no more than 14” wide.

There are two main Laser Cutter settings, depending on the type of image or engraving you're making: Raster (lighter, for general etching & engraving of images) and Vector (deeper cutting, more heavy duty - makes a stencil). They are the inverse of each other. The parts Raster etches away are the parts left by the Vector, and vice versa. (Unless I misunderstand this....)

Use the Trim button to crop the image, getting rid of white space or other empty areas of the image not necessary for the final product.

Adjust the Speed as you desire – Rayce says slower speed and less intensity is generally advisable for higher quality.

Threshold is like Contrast. Play around with it until your image looks the best to you.

Clicking Invert will make a photo-negative of your image: white areas turned to black and vice versa, as in Gimp and other image editing programs.

Be careful with the Quality setting as this will affect the time it takes to Laser Cut your image. High (1000dpi) can take a very long time – the better part of an hour to engrave a single large image. You would use this setting for intricate artwork, small text, anything where fine detail & clarity are key. Medium (500dpi) will work for average images, and Low (250dpi) ought to be fine for simpler artwork such as logos consisting of large letters, basic geometric shapes, that sort of thing.

Alan thinks that anything over 250 DPI is just wasting time and does not add to the quality or precision of the final piece.

The Jog controls on the upper right in the RE display control the movement of the cutter. They are like the Spacebar, Return, and Arrow keys on a keyboard, with the cutter being like the cursor on a computer screen. It's OK to use the Jog functions when the Laser Cutter lid is open, but don't ever activate the laser at such a time, or you can hurt yourself. This is a laser, and it cuts.

Open the lid of the Laser Cutter and place a piece of paper or other disposable material on the honeycomb platform for testing. Always leave a margin of at least one inch on the left side of the platform, otherwise the Laser Cutter can go offline or damage itself – you'll hear a loud ugly noise if this happens, warning you.

Now look at the knobs and controls on the right hand top of the Laser Cutter. The Current Regulator is the one you will use most during cutting. The Ampere Meter measures the current. It should never go above 15 millamps; doing so is equivalent to going “into the red” when recording music, and in this case, you don't want to be Iggy & the Stooges. Prior to printing, test by simultaneously pressing both the green buttons below the Ampere Meter and Current Regulator knob. The current won't engage unless both are pressed at the same time. Once engaged, the Ampere Meter should automatically jump up to a point between 0 and 15 millamps; this is the amount you should try to keep it at during cutting. It varies somewhat from image to image. Pay attention and adjust the Current Regulator as necessary during cutting, trying to stick close to the indicated level – 5 millamps is a typical amount.

Whenever you switch substrates (the material you engrave on, whether it be paper, mat board, plexiglass, wood, or anything else), it is necessary to focus the laser using the [ name of square-shaped metal thing ] and focus lever beneath the Laser Cutter. This lever lowers the cutting platform when turned to the Left, raises it when turned to the Right.

Be sure to check with Rayce or another knowledgeable Noisebridger if you aren't sure that a particular material is safe to print on. We want to use materials that are ROHS compliant - i.e. environmentally safe. Some materials can contain toxic compounds like lead, halogen, etc that should not be used in this way. There should be crates or bins near the Laser Cutter, very obvious to the eye, containing paper, wood, plastic and other scrap materials ready for use with the Laser Cutter. More technical info on this topic is available.

'''Attend the Laser Cutter during use to ensure safety - it's possible for the laser to ignite materials and cause a fire!'''

Be sure to do a test print, if not several, when you are first acquainting yourself with the use of the Laser Cutter. Play around with the Current Regulator knob during cutting, turning it all the way to the left in order to reduce cutting to zero (no mark on the surface of your printing substrate), then increasing it by turning to the right (but not past 15 millamps!) for maximum penetration. If you are printing on a single sheet of paper or other thin substrate, the high current level will cut straight through, creating a stencil type image.

On the computer screen, in the Retina Engrave window, use Go and Cancel to start or stop the Laser Cutter.

''The section below is in progress / draft form:''

You can create etched images from which to make prints, if you have a flatbed roller press. Coat the etched image with ink, scrape off excess, leaving the etched areas filled with ink which will then be printed (via the force applied by the print rollers) onto printmaking paper or other material of your choice. This is similar to the process used for linoleum block printing, copper plate etching, and other traditional printmaking techniques.

=Repairs=
''This section withholds the documentation to reclaim the glorious days of the Full Spectrum Engineer Laser MLE-40''
==How You Can Help!==
[[File:MLE-40-Rev6_0-fullspeceng_LPT_Driver_Board_Top.jpg|thumb|left]]
[[File:MLE-40-Rev6_0-fullspeceng_LPT_Driver_Board_Bottom.jpg|thumb|left]]

'''Credit card donations can be paypal'ed to Mitch directly.'''
PayPal donate as 'friend or family' to avoid charges.
Add a note "laser cutter repair."

$237.37 - Replacement Tube

$400.00 - Laser Cutter Missing Hardware

?Additional costs, shipping, etc?

$'''637.37''' - Current Total as ''11/23/2015''

=== Donors & Amounts Given to Fix Cutter ===
       ''Please add to the donations, if you feel you can!''
{| style="color:#006060; background-color:#ffd6e1;" cellpadding="10" cellspacing="0" border="1"
! Amount Donated
! Name of provider
|-
! $xxx
! Joe Schmoe
|-
|}

Lasercutter Kaitian CM1309

2016-07-04T06:46:03Z

Rubin110: Rubin110 moved page Lasercutter Kaitian CM1309 to Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309: Restructuring laser pages in order to making the Kaitian content more predominant. All old information will be retained and redirected to.

#REDIRECT [[Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309]]

Laser Cutter/Kaitian CM1309

2016-07-04T06:46:03Z

:'''Some Chinese friends of Noisebridge want to donate a really nice brand new, fully supported, laser cutter to Noisebridge!'''

This is what it looks like:
[[Image:KAITIAN_CM1309.PNG|450px|center|Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter]]

 
Before we can accept this donation, we need to do 2 things:

* Get someone who knows enough about structural engineering to look at the place we want to use the laser cutter at Noisebridge, and let us know if the floor can handle the 1,000 pounds weight of the machine.
* Raise $4,000 for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge. This will get the laser to us, and give us full support from Kaitian.

 
Before we can actually use the laser cutter, we need to:

* Build a room for it, with some sound insulation and ventilation that can handle the fumes.
* Come up with a plan for the room, and raise funds for buildout of the room.
 

== Full specs for the Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter ==
Brochure for the Kaitian CM1309 laser cutter: 
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part1of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 1 of 2) ''(1.30MB)'']]
* [[File:KAITIAN_CM1309_part2of2.pdf|thumb|left|Kaitian CM1309 brochure (part 2 of 2) ''(855KB)'']]
* [http://www.kaitianlaser.com/2-cutting-engraving-machine-3.html Page!]
* Machine Dimensions:

Chiller:
* KT-5200 Electronic chiller
* Dimensions: 72X44X62 cm (L X W X H) (28.34" x 17.32" x 24.40")
* Looks very similar to the CW5000 so that user manual may be helpful https://noisebridge.net/wiki/File:CW_5000-5200_UserManual.pdf

Exhaust Fan:
* 12 foot adjustable ventilation duct

Compressor

 

== Pledge here for raising $6,000 buildout for our new laser cutter! ==
($4K for shipping, import tax, and warranty maintenance charge; $2K for direct room buildout)
 

 
Donations to the laser cutter project can be made [https://donate.noisebridge.net/projects/laser here] (also shows status of donations; currently <$2,500) 
'''Donations are tax deductible'''

Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/V4 Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2016-07-04T06:44:24Z

Rubin110: Restructuring laser pages in order to making the Kaitian content more predominant. All old information will be retained and redirected to.

#REDIRECT [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W]]

Lasercutter/V4 Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2016-07-04T06:44:21Z

Rubin110: Restructuring laser pages in order to making the Kaitian content more predominant. All old information will be retained and redirected to.

#REDIRECT [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W]]

Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2016-07-04T06:43:21Z

Rubin110: /* Specifications */

Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/Notes

2016-07-04T06:39:44Z

Rubin110: Redirected page to Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W#Notes

#REDIRECT [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W#Notes]]

Lasercutter/Notes

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#REDIRECT [[Laser_Cutter/Full_Spectrum_Laser_40W#Notes]]

Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2016-07-04T06:38:25Z

Rubin110:

= Latest News =

''' New Lasercutter: Kaitian CM1309SH ''' : 1 Head, 100 watt

* We are working on getting a new Lasercutter in June 2016. Here is more information regarding that project. https://noisebridge.net/wiki/Lasercutter_Kaitian_CM1309

* The laser cutter has needed love for some time. Here is the link to the new repair page: [[Laser Cutter Repair Page]]

* Right now we need more vinyl, please donate to Casey.

= Lasercutter =
'''[[Lasercutter/V4 Full Spectrum Laser 40W|Full Spectrum Laser 4th Generation 40W CO2 Laser Engraver - Deluxe Model]]'''

* [[FSLaser Unofficial manual|Unofficial manual]] (maintained on this wiki)
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/co2laserv2-40w.html Product Site]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/forums/ Forums]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/lasersetupv2.html V4 Laser Download Page]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/files/FSL_40w_Hobby_Laser_Manual.pdf Manual] [[File:FSL 40w Hobby Laser Manual.pdf]]
* Drivers should be thrown onto Pony and the cutter machine once we get that setup.
* [https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B9dVau9GfnKxRVZCUVBPbnU3YjQ Driver Download]

== Safety information and training ==
We should have a bunch of helpful information here on safe operation of the device and who to go to to be trained on its use here.

Please visit [http://www.z136.org/ ANSI Z136 Safe Use of Lasers] and [http://www.laserinstitute.org/PDF/Z136_1_s.pdf Copy of ANSI Z136.1] for laser safety information.

''Here are [[Lasercutter/Notes | notes on Laser Cutter Use]] uploaded on March 9, 2012''

* Please speak to one of the people who is experienced with this laser cutter before using it so we can show you where everything is, how to setup the software, how to use it without breaking it, basic safety tips, etc.

* Read the instructions first. [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/files/FSL_40w_Hobby_Laser_Manual.pdf Manual]

* Never turn the current up above 15 milliamps, that will fry the laser tube quickly. Usually just a few milliamps is more than enough power to do what you want. Using too much power on wood or paper will start a fire. Instead of turning up the power, turn down the speed and/or use multiple passes. Always use the minimum power you can do to the job to prevent unsightly burn marks and extend the life of the laser tube.

* Never operate the laser cutter unattended because sometimes things catch fire. A squirt bottle with water is kept next to the laser to put out small fires. A fire extinguisher is in the corner of the room for larger issues.

* If little flames shoot up off of your material, turn down the power. Little flames can start fires and will fog up the lens, which is difficult to clean.

* It is easy to make the laser head bang against the side or top of the unit. This causes an awful noise and must be very bad for the gears. If the laser cutter makes a banging noise, stop it immediately and reposition the laser head before the next cut, or resize the artwork.

* Do not cut plastics which create hazardous fumes when burned. Acrylic is ok. PVC and vinyl releases the very toxic gas phosgene when heated. As a general rule, chemical resistant plastics should not be put in the laser cutter.

* Be very careful with the silver honeycomb, especially when removing it from the machine to clean little bits of debris off of it. It bends very easily and once bent can not be straightened out completely. It is mostly a cosmetic issue, but pressing your thumb in the wrong place will cause permanent marks.

* Do not laser materials that make an excessive amount of smoke. A little smoke is ok, but a large amount can fog up the lens. If it is making a lot of smoke, use more passes at a lower power.

* When cutting paper, turn down the power to a couple milliamps, or it will catch fire.

* The proper operation of the laser requires you to start your cut with the energy nob set to the minimum setting, never turning it past half... If you turn it past half way... about 10-12mw the laser will die within the first few passes of printing

== Software - Windows - RetinaEngrave ==

Any program can print to the laser cutter, I had success using Inkscape and Gimp. Gimp is not very good for doing vector cuts, a major limitation. Inkscape is not the easiest software to learn but it is not difficult either.

==== Requirements ====

Windows XP or Windows 7

==== How to install ====

# Download and install USB drivers
# Download and install RetinaEngrave
# Download and install Direct Print drivers

==== How to use ====

'''Raster'''

# Get an image, any format
# Load the image into The Gimp and make any necessary changes
# Start RetinaEngrave
# Print the image to the Full Spectrum Engineering Driver
# Switch to RetinaEngrave. Set the speed to 75% or less. Press Go.

'''Vector'''

# Get an image, any format
# Start Inkscape and create a new A4 Landscape document
# Drag the image icon from Winows Explorer into the new document
# Select all. Go to the Path menu and select Trace Bitmap
# Print the image. Select the printer "Full Spectrum Engineering Driver"
# Switch to RetinaEngrave. Select the Vector tab.
# Set the speed on the right hand side. Press Go.

== Software - CUPS Driver ==
Amir Hassan and Marius Kintel are working on open source laser cutter drivers through the CUPS interface. Primarily they're working on getting it operational with an Epilog cutter, but would like to expand past that soon. [https://github.com/Metalab/ctrl-cut ctrl-cut]

== Software - OS X Driver - VisiCut ==
A possible OS X driver for our laser cutter.
https://amedeo.informatik.rwth-aachen.de/groups/visicut/

== Quirks ==

* Vector fonts with lots of curves can take a long time for RetinaEngrave to process before it starts cutting. For instance, a single 5 letter word in Arial takes only 3 seconds to start in raster but 30 seconds to start in vector. The same word in the Pokimon font takes just 5 seconds to start.

* If your PC is connected to the laser cutter with the usb cable, and you have the RetinaEngrave software and drivers installed, and you still can't get the machine to acknowledge you (e.g. you try to press the "jog" buttons and the laser head doesn't move) try these things:
** There is a button between the "jog right" and "jog left" button. It shifts between UNLOCK and LOCK. Togge it and try again!
** There is a big red emergency stop button on top of the laser cutter. It might be pressed down, which means the machine won't work. ''Twist'' the button to unpress it.

* It is easy to make the laser head bang against the side or top of the unit. Don't let it do that.

* If you are doing a raster engrave, you can not set the speed too high. Here is some artwork on paper, raster engrave, 250 dpi 85% speed: [http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/alanrockefeller/IMG_0190.jpg]. Here is the same image at 71% speed: [http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t265/alanrockefeller/IMG_0192.jpg]
At 500 dpi, 75% speed was too much. 72% was also too fast.
I also saw the problem at 250 dpi 71% and 1000 dpi 65%. Full spectrum engineering said on Feb 25 that this problem is caused by the belt being too tight. [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=310]

* You don't need to watch the laser every single second, but you should at least stay in the little room while it's on and keep a general eye on it. Why? Because if you're using something burnable, there's a chance it can catch fire. Which is bad.

* Turn off the machine when not in use. The air pump gets hot if left on for long periods. It is not quite hot enough to cause a problem, but it will last longer if it is not always on, and turning it off will keep dust from accumulating inside the laser unnecessarily.

== Things you can put in the laser cutter ==

* Paper (cardstock could have additives that should not go in the cutter, test a sample)
* Acrylic and several other plastics
* Wood (careful of fire, treated wood could have additives)
* Cotton
* Many other fabrics (not moleskin books because they can have high chlorine content)
* Cell phones (check for chlorine in the plastic)
* Laptops (check for chlorine in the plastic)
* Leather
* Glass
* Anodized/coated metal
* Chocolate
* Linoleum
* "Speedy-cut" rubber

== Things you should not put in the laser cutter ==

'''WARNING''': Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/identifying-unknown-plastics.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+makezineonline+%28MAKE%29&utm_content=Google+Reader a simple process].

{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1" align="center"
|-
! Material
! DANGER!
! Cause/Consequence
|-
| PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather/Moleskine notebooks
| Emits pure chlorine gas when cut!
| Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.
|-
| Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
| Cut very poorly, discolor, catch fire
| Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because ''polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation!'' This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting.
|-
| ABS
| Emits cyanide gas and tends to melt
| ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt).
|-
| HDPE/milk bottle plastic
| Catches fire and melts
| It melts. It gets gooey. Don't use it.
|-
| PolyStyrene Foam
| Catches fire
| It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
|-
| PolyPropylene Foam
| Catches fire
| Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.
|-
| Fiberglass
| Emits fumes
| It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)
|-
| Coated Carbon Fiber
| Emits noxious fumes
| A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.
|-
| Any powder
|
| the compressed air will blow it away
|-
| Bare metal
|
|
|-
| Animals
|
|
|-
| People
|
|
|-
| Butane lighters
|
|
|-
| Gasoline or other liquids
|
|
|}

== Tips ==

* Before putting your material into the laser cutter, test your image on paper. If you don't test on paper first you will ruin a lot of the material you are cutting. Once it looks good on paper you can place your material on the paper so you know it is positioned properly, and refocus if the material is thick.

* When engraving raster images, they go much faster if you use a lower DPI. The lowest setting is 250 DPI and that is enough for most things. Use higher DPI only with high resolution images and with materials that show the difference.

== To Do ==

* Build a table and shelves for the laser and laser materials
* Collect images that are good to use with the laser cutter

== Cutting power / speeds ==
''[http://wiki.nycresistor.com/wiki/Laser_Power NYCR's Laser Power table]''

* Typing paper - 100% speed, 3 milliamps
* 2mm acrylic - 25% speed, 8 milliamps
* 5/8ths inch acrylic - 1% speed, 12 milliamps, 2 passes
* Plastic with metalic coating - 5 - 7 milliamps rastor, 3 ma vector
* Linen - 70% speed, 4 milliamps, 1 pass
* 1/8″ plywood: Regulate the current to just a pinch under 15mA and use 3 Passes / 18.75% Speed / 100% power. The reduced speed (25% to 18.75% – a 25% reduction) seems to account for the needed power, while the reduced number of passes (also a 25% and thus proportional reduction) reduces the excess char that is produced by the laser. (figured out by elijah at noisebridge)
* "Speedy-cut" rubber - Raster: 15% speed, 3 milliamps, 1 pass.
* 1/16 inch basswood, to cut through: 34% speed, 14% power (of 15 milliamps max set on machine), 7 passes
* basswood to etch: 20% speed, 10% power (of 15 milliamps max set on machine), 1 pass

== Specifications ==

* Maximum material size: 13" x 16"
* Maximum engravable area: 9.5" x 14.5"
* Maximum material thickness: 2.75"
* CO2 Laser Wavelength: 10.6um
* Maximum Laser Power: 40W

== Photos ==
[[Image:LaserCutter_Top_Closed.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Top view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_Top_Open.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Top view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter with top open (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_Front.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Front view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_RightSide.JPG|center|thumb|500px|Right side view of Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_PowerParallelToUSBControllerPCB.JPG|thumb|center|500px|Power Parallel to USB Controller PCB for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_MainPowerMotherboardPCB_view1.JPG|thumb|center|500px|Power Main Motherboard PCB (view 1) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_MainPowerMotherboardPCB_view2.JPG|thumb|center|500px|Power Main Motherboard PCB (view 2) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_LaserTube_view1.JPG|center|thumb|500px|40W Laser Tube (view 1) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 
[[Image:LaserCutter_LaserTube_view2.JPG|thumb|500px|center|40W Laser Tube (view 2) for Full Spectrum MLE-40 Laser Cutter (click photo to enlarge)]] 

== [[Talk:Lasercutter|Discussion]] ==
'''[[Talk:Lasercutter|On the Discussion page!]]'''

[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]

= Notes =
'''Notes on Using the Laser Cutter'''

''These notes written Friday, March 9, 2012 by [[User:Tony_Longshanks | Tony]] (anthonyletigre@gmail.com), adapted from demos / classes given by the famous Robert Rayce (robertayoungchu@gmail.com).''

First, '''have your art ready.''' There is currently only one laser cutter at Noisebridge and it is sometimes in high demand. It can take a great deal of time to print a single image on the Laser Cutter, particularly at the High (1000dpi) setting. Email your art or image files to yourself so that you can download them to the Laser Cutter computer. Most all image formats are usable – JPEG, GIF, PNG, TIF, etc. I typically use TIF files since they are higher resolution, print quality files, whereas JPEG and GIF are less so.

The computer currently attached to the Noisebridge Laser Cutter seems to save files as MAYA type by default. The program GIMP2/GNU can be used to edit those images as necessary (it's among the desktop icons). Open your art / image files with '''Retina Engrave''' (that's the Laser Cutter software program – also on the desktop). If they don't look right you can try adjusting the settings as detailed below, or else re-open them with GIMP2 or similar image editing program (Photoshop, Illustrator, Quark, etc.) to adjust before proceeding with laser cutting.

In Retina Engrave (RE), click on File > Open at the top left to select & open your art files. They'll most likely be in Documents > Downloads unless you saved them to the Desktop or another specific directory. Be sure to change the “Type of File” to “All Files” because the default file search is .XPS, and the directory window will only show files with that extension. (This is how it was at the time these notes were taken, anyway.)

RE automatically changes color art to black & white (this is not printing, it's engraving) and resizes the image to conform to an existing template. The file size you see on screen will not necessarily be the size of the printed image. You can zoom in or out on the image to see it in greater or less detail using the Zoom buttons on the upper left. (Rayce says not to use these – they don't work. It seems to me that they work for viewing on the screen, but don't affect the final print, which will be of the entire image.) You should already know the size from working with it in your image program previously. The maximum printable area that the NB Laser Cutter can accommodate is 9.5” high by 15” wide. It is advisable to keep your image slightly smaller than the maximum: a safe threshold for maximum image size is 8.5” or 9 “ high and no more than 14” wide.

There are two main Laser Cutter settings, depending on the type of image or engraving you're making: Raster (lighter, for general etching & engraving of images) and Vector (deeper cutting, more heavy duty - makes a stencil). They are the inverse of each other. The parts Raster etches away are the parts left by the Vector, and vice versa. (Unless I misunderstand this....)

Use the Trim button to crop the image, getting rid of white space or other empty areas of the image not necessary for the final product.

Adjust the Speed as you desire – Rayce says slower speed and less intensity is generally advisable for higher quality.

Threshold is like Contrast. Play around with it until your image looks the best to you.

Clicking Invert will make a photo-negative of your image: white areas turned to black and vice versa, as in Gimp and other image editing programs.

Be careful with the Quality setting as this will affect the time it takes to Laser Cut your image. High (1000dpi) can take a very long time – the better part of an hour to engrave a single large image. You would use this setting for intricate artwork, small text, anything where fine detail & clarity are key. Medium (500dpi) will work for average images, and Low (250dpi) ought to be fine for simpler artwork such as logos consisting of large letters, basic geometric shapes, that sort of thing.

Alan thinks that anything over 250 DPI is just wasting time and does not add to the quality or precision of the final piece.

The Jog controls on the upper right in the RE display control the movement of the cutter. They are like the Spacebar, Return, and Arrow keys on a keyboard, with the cutter being like the cursor on a computer screen. It's OK to use the Jog functions when the Laser Cutter lid is open, but don't ever activate the laser at such a time, or you can hurt yourself. This is a laser, and it cuts.

Open the lid of the Laser Cutter and place a piece of paper or other disposable material on the honeycomb platform for testing. Always leave a margin of at least one inch on the left side of the platform, otherwise the Laser Cutter can go offline or damage itself – you'll hear a loud ugly noise if this happens, warning you.

Now look at the knobs and controls on the right hand top of the Laser Cutter. The Current Regulator is the one you will use most during cutting. The Ampere Meter measures the current. It should never go above 15 millamps; doing so is equivalent to going “into the red” when recording music, and in this case, you don't want to be Iggy & the Stooges. Prior to printing, test by simultaneously pressing both the green buttons below the Ampere Meter and Current Regulator knob. The current won't engage unless both are pressed at the same time. Once engaged, the Ampere Meter should automatically jump up to a point between 0 and 15 millamps; this is the amount you should try to keep it at during cutting. It varies somewhat from image to image. Pay attention and adjust the Current Regulator as necessary during cutting, trying to stick close to the indicated level – 5 millamps is a typical amount.

Whenever you switch substrates (the material you engrave on, whether it be paper, mat board, plexiglass, wood, or anything else), it is necessary to focus the laser using the [ name of square-shaped metal thing ] and focus lever beneath the Laser Cutter. This lever lowers the cutting platform when turned to the Left, raises it when turned to the Right.

Be sure to check with Rayce or another knowledgeable Noisebridger if you aren't sure that a particular material is safe to print on. We want to use materials that are ROHS compliant - i.e. environmentally safe. Some materials can contain toxic compounds like lead, halogen, etc that should not be used in this way. There should be crates or bins near the Laser Cutter, very obvious to the eye, containing paper, wood, plastic and other scrap materials ready for use with the Laser Cutter. More technical info on this topic is available.

'''Attend the Laser Cutter during use to ensure safety - it's possible for the laser to ignite materials and cause a fire!'''

Be sure to do a test print, if not several, when you are first acquainting yourself with the use of the Laser Cutter. Play around with the Current Regulator knob during cutting, turning it all the way to the left in order to reduce cutting to zero (no mark on the surface of your printing substrate), then increasing it by turning to the right (but not past 15 millamps!) for maximum penetration. If you are printing on a single sheet of paper or other thin substrate, the high current level will cut straight through, creating a stencil type image.

On the computer screen, in the Retina Engrave window, use Go and Cancel to start or stop the Laser Cutter.

''The section below is in progress / draft form:''

You can create etched images from which to make prints, if you have a flatbed roller press. Coat the etched image with ink, scrape off excess, leaving the etched areas filled with ink which will then be printed (via the force applied by the print rollers) onto printmaking paper or other material of your choice. This is similar to the process used for linoleum block printing, copper plate etching, and other traditional printmaking techniques.

Talk:Lasercutter

2016-07-04T06:35:49Z

Rubin110: Rubin110 moved page Talk:Lasercutter to Talk:Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W: Restructuring laser pages in order to making the Kaitian content more predominant. All old information will be retained and redirected to.

#REDIRECT [[Talk:Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W]]

Talk:Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2016-07-04T06:35:49Z

I picked up some Masonite for use in the laser cutter. It works well for raster engraving, but it's too dense for vector; multiple passes didn't come close to cutting through the material.

I wasn't sure where to put this on the main page, since it looks like Masonite is totally suitable for raster and totally unsuitable for vector.

----
Glenn from Dallas Makerspace again.

For a fire extinguisher we use a 9 oz paintball CO2 tank with one of these nozzles from Ebay works great and its cheap to fill at any sporting goods store that sells paintball stuff. The tank costs about $12, the nozzle about $14 and to fill is $3.

[http://cgi.ebay.com/Paintball-CO2-Tank-Air-Blow-Off-Duster-Adapter-NEW-FS-/380314159488?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588c7d8980 CO2 nozzle]

----
FYI from Dallas Makerspace 2/25/11

We have had one of these lasers since 08/2010 and we love it. I have put together a training presentation on how to use this laser. See http://dallasmakerspace.org/wiki/Laser for details, Glenn Pipe

----
Update 5/17/2010 [[User:Coreyfro|Coreyfro]]

Hi Corey,

I received your information from Amy @ the Epilog factory in Golden. I would like to talk to you regarding your interest in the laser system and to discuss more about the ideal laser for the environment in which you are looking to place the laser. If you could please provide me your contact #, I would be happy to call you, or if you prefer, you can contact me at any of the #’s listed below.

Thank you again for your interest in the Epilog laser system!

Craig Abramson
Advanced Cutting & Engraving Systems, LLC
craig@aceslasers.com
www.aceslasers.com

direct - 510.338.4143
toll free - 1.888.425.6584
cell - 510.909.8001

----

Update 5/14/2010 [[User:Coreyfro|Coreyfro]]

I agree leasing may be the best option because there is a degree of service that is required that may be best left to the vendor. It also means we can experiment with off brand systems without much buyer's remorse.

I have experience with a shared laser engraver at Techshop and can bring some logistical lessons learned from that experience (once I resuscitate those brain cells.) We can see if Epilog is interested in giving us the same deal that Techshop got since NB and Techshop at least have the "den of future customers" aspect in common.

----

Update 5/12/2010

Check this out, campers:

http://www.lightobject.com/Solo-Desktop-40Watt-CO2-Laser-Cutting-Machine-Pro-Support-Mach3-KCam--P399.aspx

That's just suspiciously cheap. But hey, we know from gcode, right?
(We use gcode to drive the [[MaxNCMill]] and have several tool paths up).

And it's big enough to make a Makerbot.

It seems to have (some) spare parts available:
http://www.lightobject.com/CNC-CO2-Laser-C11.aspx

And a bigger brother (still cheap):
http://www.lightobject.com/Professional-40W-CO2-Laser-EngravingCutter-with-DSP-Controller-CorelDraw-AutoCad-lover-P299.aspx

BUT: After several bad experiences, I ([[User:Jtfoote|Jtfoote]] 05:23, 13 May 2010 (UTC)) am considerably less gung-ho about shared equipment at Noisebridge. I find myself unwilling to lead an acquisition, and I have substantially reduced my pledge. It would still be a great thing to have, but I am unwilling to commit much energy to this.

----
Update 12/15/2009

The laser cutter issue has been revived. We may be able to lease one for around $150/mo. Make a pledge below to help make it happen!

----
----
Update 11/14/2009

[https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/noisebridge-discuss/2009-September/008292.htmlm September 09 thread] on laser cutter petered out, but the [https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/noisebridge-discuss/2009-September/008384.html NYCR post] seemed very informative.

There had been talk in October of [https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/noisebridge-discuss/2009-October/009301.html laser cutter access outside NB] but since then it's been all quiet on the laser front.

Any news? --[[User:Hurtstotouchfire|Hurtstotouchfire]] 13:59, 14 November 2009 (PST)

---

Just in: I asked Bre Pettis of NYCResistor (who makes a living on his) for advice. Here's his response:

> Minimum: 35 Watt Epilog Mini. 12x24 Machine + Filter + Tax = 20K

> Very Desirable: 60 Watt Epilog. 24x36 Machine + Filter + Tax = more than 20k.

> We wish we had gotten a more powerful machine, but because we didn't know better and it's a lot of money, we went with the mini.

> Don't get a chinese off brand machine. They are cheap and well, cheap.

[[User:Jtfoote|Jtfoote]] 15:42, 27 September 2009 (PDT)

-----

Update 6/2009:

From grey,

Prices are coming down; and some decent units are out there.

A used Epilog I've been told can be had for around $5000.

However some of these random no name Chinese brands are undercutting that -new-. Matt Westervelt in Seattle recently got a 50W unit from Redsail for about $3000. In a similar price range, Jeri Ellsworth in PDX ordered a JCUT 3040 with a 60W laser bulb after some haggling. Ebay has some very small engraver units for $1000 (dubious quality) and Jake said he saw some units for as low as about $250 in Shenzhen (presumably similar to that low end engraver, questionable quality).

If we can collect information here about some different viable models, how much space they take, how powerful they are, what their surface area is, software compatibility, etc. And can determine what looks good - let's see what we can do.

I've got a close friend in HK who has dual Chinese & HK license plates and if we have a specific model he may be able to hunt it down and slow boat it to us for some costs savings. Maybe not, but it's worth looking into. -grey

Lenses: http://cgi.ebay.com/18mm-ZnSe-Focus-Lens-for-CO2-Laser-Engraving-Cutter_W0QQitemZ400056068169QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5d25332849&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A13

-----

There are rumors of Epilog having a rent-to-own program for what sounds like very reasonable monthly rates. Does anyone want to follow up on this?

== History of pleadges ==

== Pledge ==

The below list is out of date; as of 2011-01 [[User:Turkshead]] is organizing a new pledge drive via a [https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=tvZphhJR2KHeXvR84PHIolQ&hl=en#gid=0 Google Spreadsheet]. Edit there to pledge.

<strike>Sign up to pledge below:

buy or to lease. Buying could be anywhere from $3k-20k. Leasing may be as low as $150/mo.
This pledge is non-binding, but try to be realistic.

[[User:Jtfoote|jtfoote]] $250 or ___/mo to lease (See Discussion [[User:Jtfoote|Jtfoote]] 05:24, 13 May 2010 (UTC))

[[Mprados]] $50 or ___/mo to lease

[[Coreyfro]] $250 or ___/mo to lease (Teach and Service)

[[davidfine]] $250 or $15/mo to lease

[[DYao]] $200 or $15/mo to lease (2011 01 11)

[[User:Thatha|thatha]] $200

[[User:Leif|Leif]] $200 or $25/mo to lease

[[User:VonGuard|VonGuard]] "maybe $100"

[[User:Maltman23|Mitch]] $250

[[User:Ioerror|Jake]] $250 or $20/mo to lease

[[User:Sargun|Sargun]] $750 or $50/mo to lease

Total so far: $2650
</strike>

--[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 19:53, 24 February 2011 (UTC)

Lasercutter/V4 Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2016-07-04T06:35:49Z

Rubin110: Rubin110 moved page Lasercutter/V4 Full Spectrum Laser 40W to Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/V4 Full Spectrum Laser 40W: Restructuring laser pages in order to making the Kaitian content more predominant. All old information will be retain...

#REDIRECT [[Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/V4 Full Spectrum Laser 40W]]

Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/V4 Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2016-07-04T06:35:49Z

==General info==
This laser is specifically sold as an engraver. We bought the Deluxe model which comes with a bunch of extra attachments outlined below.

* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/co2laserv2-40w.html Product Site]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/lasersetupv2.html V4 Laser Download Page]
* [http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/files/FSL_40w_Hobby_Laser_Manual.pdf Manual]
* Drivers should be thrown onto Pony and the cutter machine once we get that setup.

==Specs==
* Native 110VAC, no adapter required
* Lightweight, approximately 60 pounds
* Complete Unit includes:
** Completely redesigned to make maximum use of available interior space
** ~12"x16" max table area (new! 90% larger than the competition)
** manual Z lift table for focus adjustment
** Air Assist nozzle shoots air through the end of the lens to keep dirt away (optional air compressor extra)
** High quality spring mounted mirror mounts
** High end CO2 cutting lens ($250 value) and mirrors
** Magnetic deactivation safety switch automatically turns off laser when lid is open
** NEW: Higher all around construction quality.
** NEW: Mach3 and EMC2 compatible control card premounted
** NEW: Two self folding cable chain carriers to enclose air tubes and cables for increased reliability
** NEW: Premounted interior holes for RetinaEngrave USB
** NEW: Super mechanical quality than previous generations with dual harden steel rods for smoother Y axis movement
** FREE: Water pump included (only requires a bucket of water; running water not required)
** FREE: Visible red laser pointer mounted at the laser head included (optional beam combiner also available)
** FREE: Honeycomb table included (deluxe model only)
** FREE: Exhaust fan included! (deluxe model only)
** Requires PC with Parallel Printer Port or Optional RetinaEngrave USB Controller

Lasercutter/Notes

2016-07-04T06:35:48Z

Rubin110: Rubin110 moved page Lasercutter/Notes to Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/Notes: Restructuring laser pages in order to making the Kaitian content more predominant. All old information will be retained and redirected to.

#REDIRECT [[Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/Notes]]

Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W/Notes

2016-07-04T06:35:48Z

'''Notes on Using the Laser Cutter'''

''These notes written Friday, March 9, 2012 by [[User:Tony_Longshanks | Tony]] (anthonyletigre@gmail.com), adapted from demos / classes given by the famous Robert Rayce (robertayoungchu@gmail.com).''

First, '''have your art ready.''' There is currently only one laser cutter at Noisebridge and it is sometimes in high demand. It can take a great deal of time to print a single image on the Laser Cutter, particularly at the High (1000dpi) setting. Email your art or image files to yourself so that you can download them to the Laser Cutter computer. Most all image formats are usable – JPEG, GIF, PNG, TIF, etc. I typically use TIF files since they are higher resolution, print quality files, whereas JPEG and GIF are less so.

The computer currently attached to the Noisebridge Laser Cutter seems to save files as MAYA type by default. The program GIMP2/GNU can be used to edit those images as necessary (it's among the desktop icons). Open your art / image files with '''Retina Engrave''' (that's the Laser Cutter software program – also on the desktop). If they don't look right you can try adjusting the settings as detailed below, or else re-open them with GIMP2 or similar image editing program (Photoshop, Illustrator, Quark, etc.) to adjust before proceeding with laser cutting.

In Retina Engrave (RE), click on File > Open at the top left to select & open your art files. They'll most likely be in Documents > Downloads unless you saved them to the Desktop or another specific directory. Be sure to change the “Type of File” to “All Files” because the default file search is .XPS, and the directory window will only show files with that extension. (This is how it was at the time these notes were taken, anyway.)

RE automatically changes color art to black & white (this is not printing, it's engraving) and resizes the image to conform to an existing template. The file size you see on screen will not necessarily be the size of the printed image. You can zoom in or out on the image to see it in greater or less detail using the Zoom buttons on the upper left. (Rayce says not to use these – they don't work. It seems to me that they work for viewing on the screen, but don't affect the final print, which will be of the entire image.) You should already know the size from working with it in your image program previously. The maximum printable area that the NB Laser Cutter can accommodate is 9.5” high by 15” wide. It is advisable to keep your image slightly smaller than the maximum: a safe threshold for maximum image size is 8.5” or 9 “ high and no more than 14” wide.

There are two main Laser Cutter settings, depending on the type of image or engraving you're making: Raster (lighter, for general etching & engraving of images) and Vector (deeper cutting, more heavy duty - makes a stencil). They are the inverse of each other. The parts Raster etches away are the parts left by the Vector, and vice versa. (Unless I misunderstand this....)

Use the Trim button to crop the image, getting rid of white space or other empty areas of the image not necessary for the final product.

Adjust the Speed as you desire – Rayce says slower speed and less intensity is generally advisable for higher quality.

Threshold is like Contrast. Play around with it until your image looks the best to you.

Clicking Invert will make a photo-negative of your image: white areas turned to black and vice versa, as in Gimp and other image editing programs.

Be careful with the Quality setting as this will affect the time it takes to Laser Cut your image. High (1000dpi) can take a very long time – the better part of an hour to engrave a single large image. You would use this setting for intricate artwork, small text, anything where fine detail & clarity are key. Medium (500dpi) will work for average images, and Low (250dpi) ought to be fine for simpler artwork such as logos consisting of large letters, basic geometric shapes, that sort of thing.

Alan thinks that anything over 250 DPI is just wasting time and does not add to the quality or precision of the final piece.

The Jog controls on the upper right in the RE display control the movement of the cutter. They are like the Spacebar, Return, and Arrow keys on a keyboard, with the cutter being like the cursor on a computer screen. It's OK to use the Jog functions when the Laser Cutter lid is open, but don't ever activate the laser at such a time, or you can hurt yourself. This is a laser, and it cuts.

Open the lid of the Laser Cutter and place a piece of paper or other disposable material on the honeycomb platform for testing. Always leave a margin of at least one inch on the left side of the platform, otherwise the Laser Cutter can go offline or damage itself – you'll hear a loud ugly noise if this happens, warning you.

Now look at the knobs and controls on the right hand top of the Laser Cutter. The Current Regulator is the one you will use most during cutting. The Ampere Meter measures the current. It should never go above 15 millamps; doing so is equivalent to going “into the red” when recording music, and in this case, you don't want to be Iggy & the Stooges. Prior to printing, test by simultaneously pressing both the green buttons below the Ampere Meter and Current Regulator knob. The current won't engage unless both are pressed at the same time. Once engaged, the Ampere Meter should automatically jump up to a point between 0 and 15 millamps; this is the amount you should try to keep it at during cutting. It varies somewhat from image to image. Pay attention and adjust the Current Regulator as necessary during cutting, trying to stick close to the indicated level – 5 millamps is a typical amount.

Whenever you switch substrates (the material you engrave on, whether it be paper, mat board, plexiglass, wood, or anything else), it is necessary to focus the laser using the [ name of square-shaped metal thing ] and focus lever beneath the Laser Cutter. This lever lowers the cutting platform when turned to the Left, raises it when turned to the Right.

Be sure to check with Rayce or another knowledgeable Noisebridger if you aren't sure that a particular material is safe to print on. We want to use materials that are ROHS compliant - i.e. environmentally safe. Some materials can contain toxic compounds like lead, halogen, etc that should not be used in this way. There should be crates or bins near the Laser Cutter, very obvious to the eye, containing paper, wood, plastic and other scrap materials ready for use with the Laser Cutter. More technical info on this topic is available.

'''Attend the Laser Cutter during use to ensure safety - it's possible for the laser to ignite materials and cause a fire!'''

Be sure to do a test print, if not several, when you are first acquainting yourself with the use of the Laser Cutter. Play around with the Current Regulator knob during cutting, turning it all the way to the left in order to reduce cutting to zero (no mark on the surface of your printing substrate), then increasing it by turning to the right (but not past 15 millamps!) for maximum penetration. If you are printing on a single sheet of paper or other thin substrate, the high current level will cut straight through, creating a stencil type image.

On the computer screen, in the Retina Engrave window, use Go and Cancel to start or stop the Laser Cutter.

''The section below is in progress / draft form:''

You can create etched images from which to make prints, if you have a flatbed roller press. Coat the etched image with ink, scrape off excess, leaving the etched areas filled with ink which will then be printed (via the force applied by the print rollers) onto printmaking paper or other material of your choice. This is similar to the process used for linoleum block printing, copper plate etching, and other traditional printmaking techniques.

Lasercutter

2016-07-04T06:35:48Z

Rubin110: Rubin110 moved page Lasercutter to Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W: Restructuring laser pages in order to making the Kaitian content more predominant. All old information will be retained and redirected to.

#REDIRECT [[Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W]]

Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2016-07-04T06:35:47Z

Talk:Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2016-07-04T06:09:13Z

Rubin110: Deleting some trash.

Laser Cutter/Full Spectrum Laser 40W

2016-07-03T00:38:24Z

Rubin110: /* Latest News */

Resources/Network

2016-07-03T00:23:48Z

Rubin110: /* 10.20.0.0 - 0.100 Statically address services */

This page was certified [https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/rack/2016-March/003152.html 100% current and up to date] by [[User:Rubin110]] at Sun Mar 6 07:58:59 UTC 2016.

If you're reading this from another point in time, please note that the reality of the situation may be different.

__TOC__

== [[Network Troubleshooting]] ==

Are you having issues with the internet or local network? Check out the [[Network Troubleshooting]] page for more information on what you can do to make things better or possibly seek help.

== Disclaimer ==

''Please note that Noisebridge does not guarantee or provide a perfect secure experience in the space. Just like anywhere else in the world you're held responsible for your own safety and wellbeing. This also includes content you receive or transmit or provide through any mediums, such as through pen and paper, sound waves or any networks wired or wireless functioning in the space. Noisebridge is a volunteer run and operated space that provides you with infrastructure, which you use at your own risk.''

== Free Public Wireless Networks ==
Noisebridge has two open wifi networks available for your use. In most cases if you connect to the network '''Noisebridge''' your laptop/phone/device will have the best luck getting crystal clear wifi and roam between radio channels according to which provides the most reliable and fastest connection.

The wifi and internet provided is for public use. Like any public network, you should regard Noisebridge's as [[Visitor_advice#Hostile_network|potentially hostile]] and take appropriate precautions. In order to not give the impression of providing false security, Noisebridge does not run any encrypted wifi networks.

The following networks are active:
* '''Noisebridge'''
** No password
** Uplink through Monkeybrains gigabit laser
** 802.11an 5 gHz only
* '''Noisebridge Legacy 2.4 gHz'''
** No password
** Uplink through Monkeybrains gigabit laser
** 802.11an 2.4 gHz only

== Wired network ==
There are drops throughout the space. They are labeled with the corresponding number on the patch panel. Please don't destroy them (lol).

== Local Network Address Information ==
DHCP is offered automatically on the network, if that doesn't work for you here's some more static information...

* IP Range: 10.20.1.200-10.20.1.254
* Gateway: 10.20.0.1
* Subnet: 255.255.'''254'''.0 (a "slash" /23)
* DNS: 10.20.0.1,208.69.43.23,208.69.40.4,8.8.8.8

Dynamic DNS is provided by the router for DHCP clients on 10.20.0.1/23 which also provides name resolution of some local machines.

== Development ==
* See [[Network/testing]].

==Network Devices & Services==
* [[Music]]
* [[2D Paper Printer]]
* [[Infrastructure]]

= 2169 Mission =

== Uplinks ==
=== Monkeybrains Wireless Link ===
We have a point-to-point wireless link to Monkeybrains on the roof. It is wired into the Monkeybrains NEMA box on the roof, and from there into our own NEMA box in which we house a managed switch. From there the cable enters into the space through the ladder chute in the fox lounge and runs to the rack where it enters the switchboard at port 48. Port 48 is a second redundant run that follows the same path from the rack back to our NEMA box for future projects.

=== SFBroadband / City of SF / Internet Archive ===

We have a wireless point-to-point path up to Twin Peaks that connects up to a city-owned and volunteer-run IP transit network. Currently, we're hitting the dish off of the side and have a pretty terrible connection. For now, this network path is mostly only usable as a backup path.

There is a router in our wireless CPE hardware (st01-noisebridge-sfo) that connects up to the Noisebridge network and terminates as 172.30.0.54 on the "Inside / Internal" network. Set your default route via this IP to try the other path.

==I want to help!==
Noisebridge is run by volunteers, you're welcome to help but should get to know those helping first before touching/hacking the network gear. Try introducing yourself on the [rack mailing list https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/rack].

== Router ==
Biketrailer is our humble router. It is an Ubiquiti Edgerouter 5-port box running EdgeOS, a fork of Vyatta (a Linux-based router distribution). While the router does provide PoE, it is non-standard passive Ubiquiti PoE which you should avoid using.

The machines currently provides
* NAT
* DHCPD
* DNS (dnsmasq) - .noise local TLD and recursive proxy

Access is via SSH with keys and a https web interface.

== Address Allocations ==
===WAN - Monkeybrains===
* Network range: 192.195.83.129/29
* Gateway: 192.195.83.129
* DNS: 208.69.43.23,208.69.40.4
* Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.248

====Addresses====
* 192.195.83.130 - 2169.noisebridge.net - biketrailer offering some port forawrding
* 192.195.83.131 - roof switch
* 192.195.83.132 - mode/s receiver
* 192.195.83.133 - unused
* 192.195.83.134 - pegasus.noisebridge.net - pegasus 1 to 1 NAT

===LAN - 10.20.0.0/22===
====10.20.0.0 - 0.100 Statically address services====

''Note: This is '''not''' a /24 subnet! The netmask is a /23.''

* 10.20.0.1 - biketrailer
* 10.20.0.10 - earl
* 10.20.0.11 - West-AP
* 10.20.0.12 - Church-AP
* 10.20.0.13 - Central-AP
* 10.20.0.22 - pegasus
* 10.20.0.24 - hackitorium-rpi
* 10.20.0.25 - noisebridge-printer-brother
* 10.20.0.31 - kitsune
* 10.20.0.41 - noisebridgebbs
* 10.20.0.42 - flaschen-taschen
* 10.20.0.43 - noisebridge-kiosk-1 / noiseboard
* 10.20.0.44 - square (Noisesquare table)
* 10.20.0.45 - bookcase (LEDs on the library bookcase)
* 10.20.0.46 - noisebridge-kiosk-2

====10.20.0.51 - 1.199====
* DHCP-assigned, user-access IP space

====10.20.1.200 - 1.254====
* Available for adhoc manual IP address configurations.

=== IPv6 ===
We would like to setup IPv6, some day.

== Machine Rack ==
The rack sits on the South wall, it's small and up high to discourage people from messing with it or installing things in it. The internet works, please leave the box alone.

===Can I install/setup boxes on Noisebridge's network?===
====Short answer====
'''No.'''

====Long answer====
Noisebridge is here to provide infrastructure for creative projects. We're really good at some things. One thing we suck at is administrating boxes setup on our network. They eat power, internet, the attention span of volunteers, and people who set them up generally are bad at communicating later on down the line when something breaks or a machine magically appears.

Noisebridge network infrastructure policy is as such:
* Critical infrastructure machines (like our access control system): Low power ok!
* Machines for classes that cannot be hosted on the internet: Low power ok!
* Personal machines: NO!
* High power machines: NO!
* Bitcoin minors: NO!
* Torrent boxes: NO!
* Everything else: NO!

If a machine gets setup on the network without first getting an ok from the [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/rack rack list], it will be unplugged and thrown in the trash. Please don't host your box at Noisebridge. We can't afford it. Thanks for understanding.

===Rack setup===
* Patch panel
* Shitty Fucked Dell 48 port switch
* Pegasus
* Shelf with Biketrailer and POE injectors
* Shelf with random RaspberryPis for projects
* Speaker amp
* Power strip
* UPS

Resources/Network

2016-07-03T00:16:52Z

Rubin110: /* 10.20.0.0 - 0.50 Statically address services */

This page was certified [https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/rack/2016-March/003152.html 100% current and up to date] by [[User:Rubin110]] at Sun Mar 6 07:58:59 UTC 2016.

If you're reading this from another point in time, please note that the reality of the situation may be different.

__TOC__

== [[Network Troubleshooting]] ==

Are you having issues with the internet or local network? Check out the [[Network Troubleshooting]] page for more information on what you can do to make things better or possibly seek help.

== Disclaimer ==

''Please note that Noisebridge does not guarantee or provide a perfect secure experience in the space. Just like anywhere else in the world you're held responsible for your own safety and wellbeing. This also includes content you receive or transmit or provide through any mediums, such as through pen and paper, sound waves or any networks wired or wireless functioning in the space. Noisebridge is a volunteer run and operated space that provides you with infrastructure, which you use at your own risk.''

== Free Public Wireless Networks ==
Noisebridge has two open wifi networks available for your use. In most cases if you connect to the network '''Noisebridge''' your laptop/phone/device will have the best luck getting crystal clear wifi and roam between radio channels according to which provides the most reliable and fastest connection.

The wifi and internet provided is for public use. Like any public network, you should regard Noisebridge's as [[Visitor_advice#Hostile_network|potentially hostile]] and take appropriate precautions. In order to not give the impression of providing false security, Noisebridge does not run any encrypted wifi networks.

The following networks are active:
* '''Noisebridge'''
** No password
** Uplink through Monkeybrains gigabit laser
** 802.11an 5 gHz only
* '''Noisebridge Legacy 2.4 gHz'''
** No password
** Uplink through Monkeybrains gigabit laser
** 802.11an 2.4 gHz only

== Wired network ==
There are drops throughout the space. They are labeled with the corresponding number on the patch panel. Please don't destroy them (lol).

== Local Network Address Information ==
DHCP is offered automatically on the network, if that doesn't work for you here's some more static information...

* IP Range: 10.20.1.200-10.20.1.254
* Gateway: 10.20.0.1
* Subnet: 255.255.'''254'''.0 (a "slash" /23)
* DNS: 10.20.0.1,208.69.43.23,208.69.40.4,8.8.8.8

Dynamic DNS is provided by the router for DHCP clients on 10.20.0.1/23 which also provides name resolution of some local machines.

== Development ==
* See [[Network/testing]].

==Network Devices & Services==
* [[Music]]
* [[2D Paper Printer]]
* [[Infrastructure]]

= 2169 Mission =

== Uplinks ==
=== Monkeybrains Wireless Link ===
We have a point-to-point wireless link to Monkeybrains on the roof. It is wired into the Monkeybrains NEMA box on the roof, and from there into our own NEMA box in which we house a managed switch. From there the cable enters into the space through the ladder chute in the fox lounge and runs to the rack where it enters the switchboard at port 48. Port 48 is a second redundant run that follows the same path from the rack back to our NEMA box for future projects.

=== SFBroadband / City of SF / Internet Archive ===

We have a wireless point-to-point path up to Twin Peaks that connects up to a city-owned and volunteer-run IP transit network. Currently, we're hitting the dish off of the side and have a pretty terrible connection. For now, this network path is mostly only usable as a backup path.

There is a router in our wireless CPE hardware (st01-noisebridge-sfo) that connects up to the Noisebridge network and terminates as 172.30.0.54 on the "Inside / Internal" network. Set your default route via this IP to try the other path.

==I want to help!==
Noisebridge is run by volunteers, you're welcome to help but should get to know those helping first before touching/hacking the network gear. Try introducing yourself on the [rack mailing list https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/rack].

== Router ==
Biketrailer is our humble router. It is an Ubiquiti Edgerouter 5-port box running EdgeOS, a fork of Vyatta (a Linux-based router distribution). While the router does provide PoE, it is non-standard passive Ubiquiti PoE which you should avoid using.

The machines currently provides
* NAT
* DHCPD
* DNS (dnsmasq) - .noise local TLD and recursive proxy

Access is via SSH with keys and a https web interface.

== Address Allocations ==
===WAN - Monkeybrains===
* Network range: 192.195.83.129/29
* Gateway: 192.195.83.129
* DNS: 208.69.43.23,208.69.40.4
* Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.248

====Addresses====
* 192.195.83.130 - 2169.noisebridge.net - biketrailer offering some port forawrding
* 192.195.83.131 - roof switch
* 192.195.83.132 - mode/s receiver
* 192.195.83.133 - unused
* 192.195.83.134 - pegasus.noisebridge.net - pegasus 1 to 1 NAT

===LAN - 10.20.0.0/22===
====10.20.0.0 - 0.100 Statically address services====

''Note: This is '''not''' a /24 subnet! The netmask is a /23.''

* 10.20.0.1 - biketrailer
* 10.20.0.10 - earl
* 10.20.0.11 - West-AP
* 10.20.0.12 - Church-AP
* 10.20.0.13 - Central-AP
* 10.20.0.22 - pegasus
* 10.20.0.24 - hackitorium-rpi
* 10.20.0.25 - noisebridge-printer-brother
* 10.20.0.31 - kitsune
* 10.20.0.41 - noisebridgebbs
* 10.20.0.42 - flaschen-taschen
* 10.20.0.43 - noiseboard (intent)
* 10.20.0.44 - square (Noisesquare table)
* 10.20.0.45 - bookcase (LEDs on the library bookcase)

====10.20.0.51 - 1.199====
* DHCP-assigned, user-access IP space

====10.20.1.200 - 1.254====
* Available for adhoc manual IP address configurations.

=== IPv6 ===
We would like to setup IPv6, some day.

== Machine Rack ==
The rack sits on the South wall, it's small and up high to discourage people from messing with it or installing things in it. The internet works, please leave the box alone.

===Can I install/setup boxes on Noisebridge's network?===
====Short answer====
'''No.'''

====Long answer====
Noisebridge is here to provide infrastructure for creative projects. We're really good at some things. One thing we suck at is administrating boxes setup on our network. They eat power, internet, the attention span of volunteers, and people who set them up generally are bad at communicating later on down the line when something breaks or a machine magically appears.

Noisebridge network infrastructure policy is as such:
* Critical infrastructure machines (like our access control system): Low power ok!
* Machines for classes that cannot be hosted on the internet: Low power ok!
* Personal machines: NO!
* High power machines: NO!
* Bitcoin minors: NO!
* Torrent boxes: NO!
* Everything else: NO!

If a machine gets setup on the network without first getting an ok from the [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/rack rack list], it will be unplugged and thrown in the trash. Please don't host your box at Noisebridge. We can't afford it. Thanks for understanding.

===Rack setup===
* Patch panel
* Shitty Fucked Dell 48 port switch
* Pegasus
* Shelf with Biketrailer and POE injectors
* Shelf with random RaspberryPis for projects
* Speaker amp
* Power strip
* UPS

To-do-ocracy 1.0

2016-06-26T19:53:03Z

Rubin110:

[[File:Todo-trello.png|500px|thumb|right|[https://trello.com/b/jtTlEbNF/noisebridge-todo Noisebridge's To Do board]]]

==What?==
Noisebridgers [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Do-ocracy do-ocratically] apply [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrum_(software_development) Scrum Agile methodologies] to our massive [https://trello.com/b/jtTlEbNF/noisebridge-todo To Do board], running on two week sprints.

====Thursday Night Review====
* Every '''two weeks''' on Thursday at 7PM many of us wanting to physically build a better Noisebridge meet up to review the [https://trello.com/b/jtTlEbNF/noisebridge-todo To Do board].
* We review all the awesome things we completed in the last two weeks (or previous sprint), and then clear them out of the '''Done''' list.
* People at the review volunteer to complete tasks in other lists (otherwise known as backlogs) over the next two weeks (or next sprint), moving these tasks into the '''To Do''' list.
* Tasks (also known as cards in Trello) trickle from the lists (or backlogs) on the right, towards the To Do and Done lists on the left.
* You can only bring an item up if you're physically there at the review or have gotten a proxy to do it for you, plus you need to assign yourself to the task, no arm chairing please.
* If a task looks too large to complete in two weeks, it gets broken down into smaller more bite sized tasks so that it can be evenly distributed over the next couple of sprints.
* Once everyone at the review decides there's enough work in the To Do list, we declare the start of the sprint and then start working on our assigned tasks that night.

====During the Sprint====
* As we complete tasks we move them from To Do to Done.
* It's acceptable to pull in other tasks mid sprint, however the point is to make an attempt at pulling in the right amount you know you can complete at the review.
* If we have questions or comments about tasks we can communicate them through each task on the board (@username will notify the person you're talking with them), and we also communicate through #to-do-ocracy on Slack.
* We repeat this whole process again in two weeks.

This is not a meeting to talk about feelings or process, but instead to talk about what thing you're going to do with your hands at Noisebridge next and then do it. After the review people general get up and start the doing. If you're looking for a meeting to discuss your next event, look for people to help you with your project, have questions pertaining to the non-profit, or are requesting mediation, you might want to check out our more general [[Meetings|Tuesday night meetings]].

==The Board==
The board is hosted on Trello: https://trello.com/b/jtTlEbNF/noisebridge-todo

If you would like access to the board, please come to a Thursday review and get in #to-do-ocracy on Slack.

We use a couple browser extensions to help us organize and track things easier:

====Chrome====
* [https://goo.gl/yz3a1N Trello Label Text]
* [http://scrumfortrello.com/ Trello Story Points]

====Firefox====
* [https://goo.gl/Te6xaB Trello label color cards]
* [http://scrumfortrello.com/ Trello Story Points]

==How to run a review==
# Move the "Review for next sprint" list to the 3rd list position after "To Do - This Week".
# Ask folks to close out their completed cards by moving them form To Do to Done before the start of the review.
# Ask folks to move tickets they want to bring up to do over the next two weeks into the "Review for next sprint" list before the start of the review.
# Start promptly at 7PM on Thursday.
# Project the board on the projector, hand out board URL.
# Review all items in the Done list, recognize who did what.
# Clear out done list (mouse over a card and press C to archive).
# Click the ... menu button in the top right corner of the To Do list and select "Move all cards in this list..." and the select the Review list, all cards should then be moved into the review list.
# Starting from the top of the Review for next sprint list start discussing cards to be moved into the To Do list.
# If a card isn't ready for the next two weeks, dump it into the backlog most appropriate.
# Once you're done with the Review list, declare the start of the sprint and go hack something up.

====Things to keep in mind====
* If the task in a card is bigger than what can be handled in 2 weeks, it should be broken down into smaller cards.
* Never ever pull an item into the To Do list without someone being assigned to it.
* Only people willing to volunteer to be assigned to a card should be placed on that card, no arm chairing.
* If you have a question about something in a card, click on it and leave a comment.
* You can @name someone in a comment and they'll get a notification.
* Investigation cards are just as important as the cards where you do something.

File:Todo-trello.png

2016-06-26T19:50:05Z

Rubin110: Screenshot of https://trello.com/b/jtTlEbNF/noisebridge-todo

Screenshot of https://trello.com/b/jtTlEbNF/noisebridge-todo

To-do-ocracy 1.0

2016-06-26T19:48:32Z

Rubin110: /* Thursday Night Review */

==What?==
Noisebridgers [https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Do-ocracy do-ocratically] applies [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrum_(software_development) Scrum Agile methodologies] to our massive [https://trello.com/b/jtTlEbNF/noisebridge-todo To Do board], running on two week sprints.

====Thursday Night Review====
* Every '''two weeks''' on Thursday at 7PM many of us wanting to physically build a better Noisebridge meet up to review the [https://trello.com/b/jtTlEbNF/noisebridge-todo To Do board].
* We review all the awesome things we completed in the last two weeks (or previous sprint), and then clear them out of the '''Done''' list.
* People at the review volunteer to complete tasks in other lists (otherwise known as backlogs) over the next two weeks (or next sprint), moving these tasks into the '''To Do''' list.
* Tasks (also known as cards in Trello) trickle from the lists (or backlogs) on the right, towards the To Do and Done lists on the left.
* You can only bring an item up if you're physically there at the review or have gotten a proxy to do it for you, plus you need to assign yourself to the task, no arm chairing please.
* If a task looks too large to complete in two weeks, it gets broken down into smaller more bite sized tasks so that it can be evenly distributed over the next couple of sprints.
* Once everyone at the review decides there's enough work in the To Do list, we declare the start of the sprint and then start working on our assigned tasks that night.

====During the Sprint====
* As we complete tasks we move them from To Do to Done.
* It's acceptable to pull in other tasks mid sprint, however the point is to make an attempt at pulling in the right amount you know you can complete at the review.
* If we have questions or comments about tasks we can communicate them through each task on the board (@username will notify the person you're talking with them), and we also communicate through #to-do-ocracy on Slack.
* We repeat this whole process again in two weeks.

This is not a meeting to talk about feelings or process, but instead to talk about what thing you're going to do with your hands at Noisebridge next and then do it. After the review people general get up and start the doing. If you're looking for a meeting to discuss your next event, look for people to help you with your project, have questions pertaining to the non-profit, or are requesting mediation, you might want to check out our more general [[Meetings|Tuesday night meetings]].

==The Board==
The board is hosted on Trello: https://trello.com/b/jtTlEbNF/noisebridge-todo

If you would like access to the board, please come to a Thursday review and get in #to-do-ocracy on Slack.

We use a couple browser extensions to help us organize and track things easier:

====Chrome====
* [https://goo.gl/yz3a1N Trello Label Text]
* [http://scrumfortrello.com/ Trello Story Points]

====Firefox====
* [https://goo.gl/Te6xaB Trello label color cards]
* [http://scrumfortrello.com/ Trello Story Points]

==How to run a review==
# Move the "Review for next sprint" list to the 3rd list position after "To Do - This Week".
# Ask folks to close out their completed cards by moving them form To Do to Done before the start of the review.
# Ask folks to move tickets they want to bring up to do over the next two weeks into the "Review for next sprint" list before the start of the review.
# Start promptly at 7PM on Thursday.
# Project the board on the projector, hand out board URL.
# Review all items in the Done list, recognize who did what.
# Clear out done list (mouse over a card and press C to archive).
# Click the ... menu button in the top right corner of the To Do list and select "Move all cards in this list..." and the select the Review list, all cards should then be moved into the review list.
# Starting from the top of the Review for next sprint list start discussing cards to be moved into the To Do list.
# If a card isn't ready for the next two weeks, dump it into the backlog most appropriate.
# Once you're done with the Review list, declare the start of the sprint and go hack something up.

====Things to keep in mind====
* If the task in a card is bigger than what can be handled in 2 weeks, it should be broken down into smaller cards.
* Never ever pull an item into the To Do list without someone being assigned to it.
* Only people willing to volunteer to be assigned to a card should be placed on that card, no arm chairing.
* If you have a question about something in a card, click on it and leave a comment.
* You can @name someone in a comment and they'll get a notification.
* Investigation cards are just as important as the cards where you do something.

Todo

2016-06-26T19:45:15Z

Rubin110: Redirected page to To-do-ocracy

#REDIRECT [[To-do-ocracy]]