Noisebridge - User contributions [en]

Laser Manual

2017-09-28T18:42:15Z

Rfong: /* Known good materials */

== Contact list ==

=== Trainers ===

* Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)
* Darryl (@augur on slack and freenode)
* Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)
* Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)
* Trent (@robbintt on slack)
* Scott Albritton (@Scott on Slack)
* Manish (@manishearth on slack and everywhere)

== Who can use the laser cutter ==

Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.

People that have successfully completed the class:
* Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer
* Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer
* Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer
* Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer
* Trent Robbins (@robbintt) - Trainer
* Henner Zeller (@hzeller)
* Adrian Kelly (@akelly)
* Nick Pisaro (@nickp)
* Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)
* John Foote (@rrmutt)
* Naomi Most (@nthmost)
* Joyti Jit (@joyti)
* David Lopez (@davidlopez)
* Sigma (no slack)
* Steve Young (@fineline)
* Collin Overbay (@cjoverbay)
* Ryan (slack tbd)
* J (@j)
* Nemesis Contreras (@nemesisc)
* Matt McKenna (@mpmckenna8)
* Olivier (@olivier)
* Juan (@jclavijo)
* Dany (@danyq)
* Andres Polit
* Edward (@edwardlui531)
* Ely Rodriguez
* Devan Mitchell
* Johnna Calvillo (@johnna)
* Jeff Tchang (@tachang)
* @jslack
* AndyMC (@signal)
* Mohammed (@mohammed)
* Chris (@chris)
* Joanna Ma (no slack)
* Tim Walsh (@classictim)
* David Afolabi (@davidafolabi)
* Jeremy Llewellyn (no slack)
* Steven Wilcox (no slack)
* Robby Nevels (@robz)
* Douglas (@greenshoos)
* Yuki (@yukims19)
* Sean Grove (@sgrove)
* Vicky (@vickydee)
* Jason (@redconfetti)
* William Brown (no slack)
* Joe Grasser (no slack)
* Jenny Liu (no slack)
* Amber Zertuche (no slack)
* Jarrod Hicks (jarrod)
* Renana Horesh (no slack)
* Jonathan Friedman (no slack)
* Beerit Goldfarb (no slack)
* Yotam Daniel (no slack)
* Karin Levi (no slack)
* Drew Skillman (no slack)
* Nick Hohman (@nohman)
* Nathan Argetsinger (no slack)
* Albert Tien (no slack)
* Michaela Carmein (no slack)
* Kadir Barry (no slack)
* Lee Azzarello (@steelnivenson)
* Lilah Kitty (no slack)
* Kitty (no slack)
* Alejandro "Alex" Leyva (no slack)
* Stephen Tranovich (no slack)
* Asya (@asyalit)
* Barakah (no slack)
* Manny (no slack)
* Vera Dikoun (no slack)
* Ronald Sebilo-Tibbits (no slack)
* Dave Irwin(@daveirwin)
* Kelsi N. Dunkelbarger (no slack)
* Ethan Ep (no slack)
* Akihiko Satoda (no slack)
* Kevin Morris (no slack)
* Drew Erny (@dperny)
* Alex Ray (no slack)
* Dave Walker (no slack)
* Mitch Altman (@maltman23)
* Bogdan Vitoc (no slack)
* Kai Habermann (no slack)
* Chris Gervang (no slack)
* Ian Griggs (no slack)
* Islam El-Ashi (no slack)
* Parul Desai (no slack)
* Emma Bahroos
* Paul Velasquez (no slack)
* Stefanie Ku (no slack yet)
* Veli Mattila (no slack yet)
* Conrad Schuman (no slack)
* Sterling Springgate (@sspringgate)
* Rafael Send (no slack)
* Roger Filmyer (@roger)
* Tristan Horn (no slack)
* Raymond Young (no slack)
* Neil Bachers (no slack)
* Charlie S (@Chaz)
* Belinda (@belindamo)
* Raneem (no slack)
* Charlie E (no slack)
* Dawn H (@dawn)
* Trevor Lewellen (no slack)
* Keyvan Shovir (no slack)
* John Shen (no slack)
* Calvin Rachuy (no slack)
* Terris Poole (tpoole8@gmail.com)
* Lizzie (@lizzie)
* Marcos Oap (no slack)
* Bob Stein (no slack)
* Scott Albritton
* Nicole Borgaard (@gaardn)
* Aaron Elligsen (not yet slacked)
* Meeks Baker (no slack yet)
* Jacob Fenwick (no slack yet)
* Stuart Mason (no slack)
* Nathan Heidt (no slack)
* Tracy Weiss (no slack)
* Ewa Anna Szyszka (no slack)
* Lizzy A (no slack yet)
* SYA Warfield (no slack yet!)
* Dan Lipsitt
* Dara Kosberg (no slack yet)
* Terence Goldberg (no slack)
* Dan Cooper (no slack)
* LUS KA
* Noah Swartz
* Danielle Baskin
* Jervon Graves
* Rachel Fong (@rfong)
* Blake Griffith
* Joe Meissler (stickperson on irc)
* Leslie Mueller (no slack)
* Allison (no slack)
* Kincaid Kawananakoa (kincaidkawananakoa@gmail.com)
* Victoria Fierce (@tdfischer)
* Mike Roderick (no slack)
* hannaH Cauldwell (no slack)
* Grzegorz Biesiadecki (no slack)
* lloyd pollock(no slack)
* Edward Shively (no slack)
* Kyle Morris (no slack)
* Rae Parnmukh (no slack)
* Joe Kniss (no slack)
* Oskar Garcia (no slack)
* Nanu (no slack)
* Lawrence Kesteloot (no slack)
* Warren Cheng (no slack)
* Dot Richards (no slack)
* Alexander Lin (no slack)
* Melanie Day (no slack)
* Tara Brooks (no slack)
* Sam Lanning (@sam)
* Manish (@manishearth)
* Shane Lillya (no slack)
* Jason Yosinski (no slack)
* Chetan Verma (no slack)
* Eyal Aklimi (no stack)
* Chloe Revery (no slack)
* Eran Rundstein (no slack)
* Tommy Payne (no slack)
* Luke Daenen (no shlack)
* Quintessa (@super.lucky)
* Haddox (no slack)
* Chris Venter (@chrisv)
* Lady Red (@mcscope)
* Ashley Mishoe (no slack)
* Jan Neumann (no slack)
* Frank Crooks (no slack)
* Brittany Carrico (no slack)
*Joe Attokaren (joeat)
* Jacob Powers (powersjcb)
* Mark Willson (@mark)
* Jonas Karlsson (@jsk)
* Jessica Furst (no slack yet)
* Jeremy Rollinson (@rollinson)
* Clayton Lowell
* Anastasia Victoria
* Bruce Jahn
* Wendy Qi (no slack)
* Tal Oppenheimer (no slack)
* Elaine Doyle (no slack)
* Charley Walton (no slack)
* Aleksandr Kudriavtcev (no slack)
* James Lynch (no slack)
* Alex Alekseyenko (@intron)
* Michael Parisi (no slack)
* Kynan Lalone (no slack)
* Nick Fung (no slack)
* Leah Bell (no slack)
* Michael Micheletti (no slack)
* A. Bulnes (no slack)
* Senthil Arivudainambi (no slack)
* Olga Namsaraeva (no slack)
* Natasha Lerman (no slack)
* Drew (@drwdal on twitter, no slack)
* George (george_ashworth on irc)
* TJ (no irc or slack)
* Jonathan Schoonhoven (@jonathan)
* Ad (Adalyn) Naka (no slack)
* Katya Radul (no slack)
* Guilherme Carvalho (no slack)
* Aneesha Punreddy (no slack)
* Brahmi (no slack)
* Chris Swimmer (no slack)
* Kelly Albrink (@privileged on slack)
* Dave Chan (@davechan1)
* Alex Duesman (no slack)
* Samantha (no slack)
* Tom Nevin (no slack)
* Elena Nadolinski (no slack)
* Pamela Fox (no slack)
* Noah Katz (no slack)
* Heather Mason (no slack)
* Sasha (@sasha)
* Sida Li (no slack)
* Ali Lakrakbi (no slack)
* Merlin (no slack yet)
* Yuriy Pestov (no slack)
* Or Oppenheimer (no slack)
* Chloe Ng (no slack)
* Nicole Kim (no slack)
* David Brooks (Slacker)
* Rodrigo Menezes (no slack)
* Natalya Robinson (no slack)
* Elias Lawson-Fox (@eliaslfox)
* Ting Yit Wee (@weetinygit)
* cedar q waxwing (no slack yet)
* Mary Chenoe Hart (no slack)
* Alden Michaels (slackin)
* Kate Rudolph (no slack)
* Miguel Cervera (no slack)
* Jeremiah Davis Brown
* CAIN Ray, (AKA Robot)
* Raphael Palefsky-Smith (no slack)
* Theodore Hilk
* Tien Yin Yau
* Jess H
* Av (@Av)
* catthu
* Michael Chang
* Scott Coates
* Rich Arakelian
* Carl Roett (alchemist)
* Peter Ross Wagner
* Alexander Alshanetsky
* Jay Zuerndorfer
* Nobel Yoo
* Andy Grosser
* Zach
* Erik Aylen
* Brendan Clarke
* Cinna Lee
* Dora Chen
* Tiana Chan
* Duncan Cai
* Christine Tran (@ctine)
* Nicole Klau
* John Brady (@johnb)
* Jacqueline (Oh Happy Day)
* Max Chao
* Dominic D
* Troy Deck
* Negash A Asegde
* Kerrick Staley
* Emily Abada (UCSF)
* Aishwarya Jayagopal (UCSF)
* Jules C4
* Sean Diamant
* Jonathan Beri
* Suyash Joshi
* Nathan Leiby
* Rolf
* Tonny Buchari
* Paddy O'Flynn
* Eric Admati
* eiais (@kyle)
* Wesley (no slack)
* Ben (@eenblam)
* Tim Nemo
* Shirley Miao
* Mathew Kneebone
* Kenrick Rilee
* Matthew Hoe
* Jehan Tremback
* Kevin Prichard
* Scott Marinoff
* Kavya Seth
* Aaliyah Saldajeno
* Andrea Montejo
* Cole (@colescott)
* Osman (@kocosman)
* Isis Lovecruft (@isis)
* Tal (@tals)
* Geovanni (no slack)
* Charles F. W. (no slack)
* Oskar Weigl (no slack)
* Wenqing Yan (no slack)
* Chris (varenc)
* Ken Tsuchiya
* Carrie Gotch
* Adrian Mettler
* Lyra Levin (no slack)
* David Fisher
* Erick Hernandez
* David C Smith
* Colin Foster Howell Hunt
* Abdel Hassan
* John Graham (no slack)

== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==

# Ask a trainer if they will train you
# Schedule a time with the trainer
## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.
# Get trained
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine

The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.

== Basic Safety ==
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.

The basics:
* ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!
* DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY BECAUSE BURN-GENERATED VISIBLE LIGHT IS VERY BRIGHT!
* USE YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!

=== Fire ===

[[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]

You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.

Ways to not cause fires:
* ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.

How to put out a fire:
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).
* Open the lid.
* If it's small, try and blow it out.
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.

=== Damage to eyes and skin ===
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.
* The lid's window will block the infrared laser beam, but it doesn't block the visible light produced by the burn. THE VISIBLE LIGHT CAN BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO DAMAGE YOUR RETINA! DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY AT THE CUT! Use your peripheral vision.
* You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.

=== Crushing danger ===

The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.

Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.

=== Fumes ===
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.

== Care of the machine ==

'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''

The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.

== Paying for your laser time ==

The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.

To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.

There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.

== Workflows ==

=== Overall Workflow ===

This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.

# Laser start up
# Material setup
# Convert file to DXF
# Load file onto the machine
# Dry run
# Cut/Engrave
# Laser shut down
# Cleanup

=== Laser start up ===

[[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]

# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls

=== Material setup ===

# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible
# Place material on the bed
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)

=== Focusing the laser ===

[[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]

Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.

# Place the material on the cut bed
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material
## Note that the honeycomb bed can move up and down (Z-axis) so if the material doesn't fit under, hit Z/U on the laser controls and navigate the menu until Z axis (or something similar) is selected. Then use the left and right arrows to move the bed up and down.
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)
# Remove the focusing discs

=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===

# Load the image into Inkscape
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)
# Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.

=== Debugging DXF Problems ===

Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:

# Select all the problematic shapes
# Path > Object to Path

If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:

# Select all the problematic shapes
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).

Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.

Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).

Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.

=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===

# Import the file with File > Import
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.
# Set the cut order:
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).

=== Manually specifying cut order ===

In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.

=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===

# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest
# Click "Load parameters from library"
# Select the library item
# Click "Load"

=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===

# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters
# Click "Load parameters from library"
# Click "Save as"
# Enter a name and optionally some notes
# Click "Ok"

=== Simulation ===

# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel

=== Cutting ===

# Select the file to use using the File button
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary
# Set the origin by pressing Origin
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button
# Turn the laser power on
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button
# It is generally a good idea to put the laser head into one of the top corners and resetting origin before opening the laser if you plan on adding new material to avoid collisions with a moving head.

=== Engraving ===

In the laser software, open the layers you wish to engrave in the layer parameters panel, and send the processing mode to "Scan". This will do a raster scan of the region bounded by the paths in that layer. An even-odd rule is used to assign regions to the "inside" vs "outside" of the engraving.

=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===

# Pause with the Start/Pause button
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button

=== Laser shut down ===

# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible
# Set origin with the origin button (this helps avoid the laser swinging across the bed later)
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)
# Turn the power off

=== Cleanup ===

[[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]

# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there

=== Calculating work time ===

On the computer:

* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.

On the machine:

* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right

== Fusion 360 ==
Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.

=== Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===
This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time
# Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]
# Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]
# Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]

=== Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===
If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.
# Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]
# Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch
# Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut
# Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut
# Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]

=== Workflow 3: The Long Way ===
This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.
# Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it
# Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM
# Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -> Preview)
## Set Type to Laser Cutting
## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch
## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.
## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut
## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer
## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left
# To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]
# Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again

=== Advanced Options ===
# If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking "CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support". You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.
# There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion
# If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.
# You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended

== Techniques ==

=== Text Cutting ===

In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.

If you're using a cursive font and want everything to be one piece, convert the text object to a path, and use Path > Union. This tool in general is quite useful for merging paths that have been independently drawn but need to be merged into a single path. For example, if you made two overlapping circles, without this the cutter would just cut the two circles, which leads to a lemon-shaped piece in the center. If you union the paths, it will cut an outline as well. Path > Union will not make any holes in the figure go away, it only gets rid of cuts passing through area covered by another shape.

Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.

=== Negative Space Engraving ===

You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.

=== Kerf Compensation ===

For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the "Advance" button next to the "Seal" input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.

In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.

== Troubleshooting ==

=== File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===
If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.
[[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]

== Maintenance==

'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''

* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty
** Cleaning the mirrors
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.
* Checking and performing mirror alignment
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.
* Checking chiller tank water volume
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean
** Checking tank water volume
** Refilling tank water
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)

Signs:
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike>
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike>
* Approved materials
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike>
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike>

Todos:
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike>
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike>
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test
* acquire vinyl record for testing
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle

material notes
* material selection - approved materials list
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)
** nothing reflective
** size constraints
* laser configuration - power, speed
** table of recommmended settings for various materials

How to get a new/novel material approved
* consensus process
* chlorine test

== Chlorine material test ==

Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs.

To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.

First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says "For Non-Laser Fires Only", and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.

Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.

With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.

Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI

== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==

These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''.

{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials
|-
! Material
! Notes
|-
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.
|-
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.
|-
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.
|-
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above.
|-
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires
|-
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.
|-
| ABS || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.
|-
| Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.
|-
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.

|}

== Known good materials ==

These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Good Materials
|-
! rowspan="2" | Material
! colspan="2" | Engraving
! colspan="3" | Cutting
! colspan="2" | Scoring
! rowspan="1" | Notes
|-
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||
|-
|-

|-
| Acrylic (1mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || || The plastic has a tendency to stick back onto itself a little after cutting because it's so thin, so you may have to pop your pieces out

|-
| Acrylic (2mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || ||

|-
| Acrylic (3mm) || 400 || 5 || 20 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Power setting 4 and 5 have little visible difference except some minor lightening at the beginnings of cuts at power 4. Power 3.5 produces very light engraving, almost non-existent, with no engraving at the beginnings of cuts. Above power 5, little difference is visible, but powdery soot becomes more prevalent. Power 5 seems to be the best setting to produce frosted effects.

|-
| Acrylic (4.76mm \ 3/16 inch) || 400 || 5 || 16 || 55 || || || ||

|-
| Acrylic (6.35mm) (1/4") || 400 || 5 || 8 || 55 || 0.15mm || || ||

|-
| Acrylic (12.5mm) || 400 || 5 || 3 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm

|-
| Acrylic (18mm) || 400 || 5 || 6 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes

|-
| Balsawood (3.2mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 10 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.

|-
| Balsawood (1.6mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 7 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.

|-
| Bamboo (3/32" nominal, 2.5mm actual) || 400 || 3-20 || 55 || 45 || || || || Engraving power 3% produces visible, but very light, marking w/ no depth, 20% produces darker marking but w/ significant depth

|-
| Basswood (1.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 50 || 15 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.

|-
| Basswood (6.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 20 || 55 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.

|-
| Birch (0.9mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 40 || 20 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.

|-
| Birch (4.8mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 35 || 55 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.

|-
| Birch (1/4 inch plywood from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 15 || 55 || || || || The actual thickness of this stuff varies a lot throughout the sheet, plus there are knots in the wood that are harder to cut through. These settings should work though.

|-
| Birch (1/2 in) || || || 5 || 55 || 0.2mm || || ||

|-
| Cardboard (4mm) || || || 50 || 15 || || 50 || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm

|-
| Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated) || || || 50 || 40 || || || || [[Image:IMG 20161017 232022.jpg|thumb|center|upright|alt=Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)|Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)]]

|-
| Cardstock (white, 80lb) || || || 140 || 6 || || 140 || 4 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.

|-
| Cardstock (white, 138lb / 224GSM, Canson brand drawing paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || speed 140 power 3 for a lighter score, speed 200 power 4 for a heavier score.

|-
| Cardstock (Fabriano brand, 160 GSM, 40% cotton) || || || 100 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || The color tested for safety was Tiziano 02 Crema

|-
| Chipboard (~2mm) || || || 30 || 20 || || || ||

|-
| Chipboard (~6mm) || || || 30 || 25 || || || ||

|-
| Cork (nominal 1/4") || 400 || 2-3 || 30 || 40 || || || ||

|-
| Corrugated Plastic (white, 3.7mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 5 ||

|-
| Corrugated Plastic (yellow, 4.1mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 7 ||

|-
| Delrin (nominal 3/8", actual 9.6mm) || || || 5 || 50 || || || ||

|-
| Denim || 200 || 4 || 50 || 7 || || || || engraving numbers might produce very thin fabric, might fall apart in the wash

|-
| Douglas Fir (15mm) || 400 || 3-25 || 3 || 80 || || || || power differences are mostly differences in depth not color; engraving produces different depths over the growth rings due to wood density changes = rippled surface

|-
| Fabric - 1000D Cordura Nylon || || || 100 || 20 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges

|-
| Fabric - Alpha Broder Style 88127 (7.4oz, 96% polyester, 4% spandex) || || || 100 || 15 || || || || https://www.alphabroder.com/cgi-bin/online/webshr/prod-labeldtl.w?sr=88127

|-
| Fabric - ~0.2mm polyester/cotton blend || || || 100 || 10 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges

|-
| Fabric - ~0.6mm cotton?/spandex blend || || || 200 || 20 || || || || better edges

|-
| Fabric - 100% poly burlap from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX2XZC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) || || || 100 || 7 || || || ||

|-
| Fabric - 100% poly gabardine from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly.

|-
| Fabric - 100% poly polar fleece from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || lovely clean cut

|-
| Fabric - 100% rayon crepe from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly. I think this is just a property of the fabric melting back together after being cut. I tried increasing the power and it didn't result in a cleaner cut.

|-
| Glassine (cellulose paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 100 || 2 ||

|-
| HDPE (0.8mm, 1/32 inch sheet from TAP Plastics) || || || 20 || 30 || || || || creates a beveled edge and a slight under-hanging lip

|-
| Laser rubber (2-3mm, low odor) || 100 || 10 || 20 || 55 || || || || Low-odor laser rubber is typically grey, the normal kind is pink. Have not tested the latter yet

|-
| MDF (5/8") || || || 5 || 55-75 || || 400 || 5-15 || Cutting doesn't go all the way through necessarily, it gets spotty at this thickness. The power range was tested and produced similar results throughout, but YMMV.

|-
| Notebook from Muji: Recycled paper notebook beige A5 plain, orange spine || || || || || || 50 || 5-35 || 5 will just score through the cover 10-15 will cut through, and 35 will cut through a few pages. Any higher and there's a fire hazard. Be sure to tape or weigh the book down flat or else it's more flamey.

|-
| Paper (printer paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || || ||

|-
| Plywood w/ reddish tinge (2.6mm) || || || 35 || 30 || || || ||

|-
| Plywood (3mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 35 || 50 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving

|-
| Plywood (1/8 inch, square foot for $2.99 from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 50 || 55 || || || ||

|-
| Plywood (5.6mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 15 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving

|-
| Plywood (9.5mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 7 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving

|-
| Plywood (12mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 5 || 55 || || || || requires overcutting beginning/end; see reference in toolbox for engraving

|-
| Plywood (18mm, nominal 3/4") || 400 || 5-55 || 3 || 85 || || || || speed and power is imprecise (3/85 cuts through fine sometimes, while 2/85 doesn't always cut through fine)

|-
| Polyethylene Foam (1/2") || || || 55 || 35 || || || || Requires two passes, doesn't perfectly cut through but is easily separable

|-
| Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 50 || 10 || || || || Ruth has found that 50 speed 20 power gives a cleaner cut for the 24x45 inch sheets from TAP plastics.

|-
| Polypropylene (1/4in) || || || 4 || 55 || || || ||

|-
| Redwood (20mm) || 100-400 || 55 || 3 || 55 || || || || 5mm/s gets you almost there, so you could probably go over it a second time and it would work instead. Or if you sand it down a bit, that would probably work. I've only tried engraving on max power. You won't get a consistent depth, and it will vary depending on the grain of the wood. Looks col, but just be aware.

|-
| Red Oak (0.25 inch) || 400 || 23 || 12 || 55 || || || || Engraving power 23 gives a dark engrave on a .5-1 mm line thickness. 12-18 gave a lighter engrave. When cutting a knot in the wood, you'll have to use a lower speed, 9-10 will probably work. This wood was high quality scroll wood with almost no knots.

|-
| Scotchlite 8930 || || || 55 || 10 || || || || Scotchlite, Reflective Material, 8930 Silver Flame Resistant Fabric

|-
| Silicone (HT 6135 elastomer, Marian Chicago) || || || 22 || 12 || || || ||

|-
| Transparency Sheets || || || 400 || 6 || || || || Only chlorine and speed/power tested a mystery brand from Switzerland that Henner bought; other brands may require tests again

|}

The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.

== Sourcing Material ==

In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.

For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.

For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.

== Troubleshooting ==

=== Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===
The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.
When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -> Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.
(TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)

=== SOLIDWORKS ===
Apparently DXFs exported from Solidworks (at least v 2017) break when directly imported into RDWorks. The workaround is to import the DXF into Inkscape and re-export it from there.

Laser Manual

2017-09-28T16:38:10Z

Rfong: /* Known good materials */

== Contact list ==

=== Trainers ===

* Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)
* Darryl (@augur on slack and freenode)
* Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)
* Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)
* Trent (@robbintt on slack)
* Scott Albritton (@Scott on Slack)
* Manish (@manishearth on slack and everywhere)

== Who can use the laser cutter ==

Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.

People that have successfully completed the class:
* Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer
* Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer
* Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer
* Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer
* Trent Robbins (@robbintt) - Trainer
* Henner Zeller (@hzeller)
* Adrian Kelly (@akelly)
* Nick Pisaro (@nickp)
* Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)
* John Foote (@rrmutt)
* Naomi Most (@nthmost)
* Joyti Jit (@joyti)
* David Lopez (@davidlopez)
* Sigma (no slack)
* Steve Young (@fineline)
* Collin Overbay (@cjoverbay)
* Ryan (slack tbd)
* J (@j)
* Nemesis Contreras (@nemesisc)
* Matt McKenna (@mpmckenna8)
* Olivier (@olivier)
* Juan (@jclavijo)
* Dany (@danyq)
* Andres Polit
* Edward (@edwardlui531)
* Ely Rodriguez
* Devan Mitchell
* Johnna Calvillo (@johnna)
* Jeff Tchang (@tachang)
* @jslack
* AndyMC (@signal)
* Mohammed (@mohammed)
* Chris (@chris)
* Joanna Ma (no slack)
* Tim Walsh (@classictim)
* David Afolabi (@davidafolabi)
* Jeremy Llewellyn (no slack)
* Steven Wilcox (no slack)
* Robby Nevels (@robz)
* Douglas (@greenshoos)
* Yuki (@yukims19)
* Sean Grove (@sgrove)
* Vicky (@vickydee)
* Jason (@redconfetti)
* William Brown (no slack)
* Joe Grasser (no slack)
* Jenny Liu (no slack)
* Amber Zertuche (no slack)
* Jarrod Hicks (jarrod)
* Renana Horesh (no slack)
* Jonathan Friedman (no slack)
* Beerit Goldfarb (no slack)
* Yotam Daniel (no slack)
* Karin Levi (no slack)
* Drew Skillman (no slack)
* Nick Hohman (@nohman)
* Nathan Argetsinger (no slack)
* Albert Tien (no slack)
* Michaela Carmein (no slack)
* Kadir Barry (no slack)
* Lee Azzarello (@steelnivenson)
* Lilah Kitty (no slack)
* Kitty (no slack)
* Alejandro "Alex" Leyva (no slack)
* Stephen Tranovich (no slack)
* Asya (@asyalit)
* Barakah (no slack)
* Manny (no slack)
* Vera Dikoun (no slack)
* Ronald Sebilo-Tibbits (no slack)
* Dave Irwin(@daveirwin)
* Kelsi N. Dunkelbarger (no slack)
* Ethan Ep (no slack)
* Akihiko Satoda (no slack)
* Kevin Morris (no slack)
* Drew Erny (@dperny)
* Alex Ray (no slack)
* Dave Walker (no slack)
* Mitch Altman (@maltman23)
* Bogdan Vitoc (no slack)
* Kai Habermann (no slack)
* Chris Gervang (no slack)
* Ian Griggs (no slack)
* Islam El-Ashi (no slack)
* Parul Desai (no slack)
* Emma Bahroos
* Paul Velasquez (no slack)
* Stefanie Ku (no slack yet)
* Veli Mattila (no slack yet)
* Conrad Schuman (no slack)
* Sterling Springgate (@sspringgate)
* Rafael Send (no slack)
* Roger Filmyer (@roger)
* Tristan Horn (no slack)
* Raymond Young (no slack)
* Neil Bachers (no slack)
* Charlie S (@Chaz)
* Belinda (@belindamo)
* Raneem (no slack)
* Charlie E (no slack)
* Dawn H (@dawn)
* Trevor Lewellen (no slack)
* Keyvan Shovir (no slack)
* John Shen (no slack)
* Calvin Rachuy (no slack)
* Terris Poole (tpoole8@gmail.com)
* Lizzie (@lizzie)
* Marcos Oap (no slack)
* Bob Stein (no slack)
* Scott Albritton
* Nicole Borgaard (@gaardn)
* Aaron Elligsen (not yet slacked)
* Meeks Baker (no slack yet)
* Jacob Fenwick (no slack yet)
* Stuart Mason (no slack)
* Nathan Heidt (no slack)
* Tracy Weiss (no slack)
* Ewa Anna Szyszka (no slack)
* Lizzy A (no slack yet)
* SYA Warfield (no slack yet!)
* Dan Lipsitt
* Dara Kosberg (no slack yet)
* Terence Goldberg (no slack)
* Dan Cooper (no slack)
* LUS KA
* Noah Swartz
* Danielle Baskin
* Jervon Graves
* Rachel Fong (@rfong)
* Blake Griffith
* Joe Meissler (stickperson on irc)
* Leslie Mueller (no slack)
* Allison (no slack)
* Kincaid Kawananakoa (kincaidkawananakoa@gmail.com)
* Victoria Fierce (@tdfischer)
* Mike Roderick (no slack)
* hannaH Cauldwell (no slack)
* Grzegorz Biesiadecki (no slack)
* lloyd pollock(no slack)
* Edward Shively (no slack)
* Kyle Morris (no slack)
* Rae Parnmukh (no slack)
* Joe Kniss (no slack)
* Oskar Garcia (no slack)
* Nanu (no slack)
* Lawrence Kesteloot (no slack)
* Warren Cheng (no slack)
* Dot Richards (no slack)
* Alexander Lin (no slack)
* Melanie Day (no slack)
* Tara Brooks (no slack)
* Sam Lanning (@sam)
* Manish (@manishearth)
* Shane Lillya (no slack)
* Jason Yosinski (no slack)
* Chetan Verma (no slack)
* Eyal Aklimi (no stack)
* Chloe Revery (no slack)
* Eran Rundstein (no slack)
* Tommy Payne (no slack)
* Luke Daenen (no shlack)
* Quintessa (@super.lucky)
* Haddox (no slack)
* Chris Venter (@chrisv)
* Lady Red (@mcscope)
* Ashley Mishoe (no slack)
* Jan Neumann (no slack)
* Frank Crooks (no slack)
* Brittany Carrico (no slack)
*Joe Attokaren (joeat)
* Jacob Powers (powersjcb)
* Mark Willson (@mark)
* Jonas Karlsson (@jsk)
* Jessica Furst (no slack yet)
* Jeremy Rollinson (@rollinson)
* Clayton Lowell
* Anastasia Victoria
* Bruce Jahn
* Wendy Qi (no slack)
* Tal Oppenheimer (no slack)
* Elaine Doyle (no slack)
* Charley Walton (no slack)
* Aleksandr Kudriavtcev (no slack)
* James Lynch (no slack)
* Alex Alekseyenko (@intron)
* Michael Parisi (no slack)
* Kynan Lalone (no slack)
* Nick Fung (no slack)
* Leah Bell (no slack)
* Michael Micheletti (no slack)
* A. Bulnes (no slack)
* Senthil Arivudainambi (no slack)
* Olga Namsaraeva (no slack)
* Natasha Lerman (no slack)
* Drew (@drwdal on twitter, no slack)
* George (george_ashworth on irc)
* TJ (no irc or slack)
* Jonathan Schoonhoven (@jonathan)
* Ad (Adalyn) Naka (no slack)
* Katya Radul (no slack)
* Guilherme Carvalho (no slack)
* Aneesha Punreddy (no slack)
* Brahmi (no slack)
* Chris Swimmer (no slack)
* Kelly Albrink (@privileged on slack)
* Dave Chan (@davechan1)
* Alex Duesman (no slack)
* Samantha (no slack)
* Tom Nevin (no slack)
* Elena Nadolinski (no slack)
* Pamela Fox (no slack)
* Noah Katz (no slack)
* Heather Mason (no slack)
* Sasha (@sasha)
* Sida Li (no slack)
* Ali Lakrakbi (no slack)
* Merlin (no slack yet)
* Yuriy Pestov (no slack)
* Or Oppenheimer (no slack)
* Chloe Ng (no slack)
* Nicole Kim (no slack)
* David Brooks (Slacker)
* Rodrigo Menezes (no slack)
* Natalya Robinson (no slack)
* Elias Lawson-Fox (@eliaslfox)
* Ting Yit Wee (@weetinygit)
* cedar q waxwing (no slack yet)
* Mary Chenoe Hart (no slack)
* Alden Michaels (slackin)
* Kate Rudolph (no slack)
* Miguel Cervera (no slack)
* Jeremiah Davis Brown
* CAIN Ray, (AKA Robot)
* Raphael Palefsky-Smith (no slack)
* Theodore Hilk
* Tien Yin Yau
* Jess H
* Av (@Av)
* catthu
* Michael Chang
* Scott Coates
* Rich Arakelian
* Carl Roett (alchemist)
* Peter Ross Wagner
* Alexander Alshanetsky
* Jay Zuerndorfer
* Nobel Yoo
* Andy Grosser
* Zach
* Erik Aylen
* Brendan Clarke
* Cinna Lee
* Dora Chen
* Tiana Chan
* Duncan Cai
* Christine Tran (@ctine)
* Nicole Klau
* John Brady (@johnb)
* Jacqueline (Oh Happy Day)
* Max Chao
* Dominic D
* Troy Deck
* Negash A Asegde
* Kerrick Staley
* Emily Abada (UCSF)
* Aishwarya Jayagopal (UCSF)
* Jules C4
* Sean Diamant
* Jonathan Beri
* Suyash Joshi
* Nathan Leiby
* Rolf
* Tonny Buchari
* Paddy O'Flynn
* Eric Admati
* eiais (@kyle)
* Wesley (no slack)
* Ben (@eenblam)
* Tim Nemo
* Shirley Miao
* Mathew Kneebone
* Kenrick Rilee
* Matthew Hoe
* Jehan Tremback
* Kevin Prichard
* Scott Marinoff
* Kavya Seth
* Aaliyah Saldajeno
* Andrea Montejo
* Cole (@colescott)
* Osman (@kocosman)
* Isis Lovecruft (@isis)
* Tal (@tals)
* Geovanni (no slack)
* Charles F. W. (no slack)
* Oskar Weigl (no slack)
* Wenqing Yan (no slack)
* Chris (varenc)
* Ken Tsuchiya
* Carrie Gotch
* Adrian Mettler
* Lyra Levin (no slack)
* David Fisher
* Erick Hernandez
* David C Smith
* Colin Foster Howell Hunt
* Abdel Hassan
* John Graham (no slack)

== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==

# Ask a trainer if they will train you
# Schedule a time with the trainer
## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.
# Get trained
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine

The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.

== Basic Safety ==
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.

The basics:
* ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!
* DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY BECAUSE BURN-GENERATED VISIBLE LIGHT IS VERY BRIGHT!
* USE YOUR PERIPHERAL VISION!
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!

=== Fire ===

[[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]

You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.

Ways to not cause fires:
* ALWAYS MONITOR THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.

How to put out a fire:
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).
* Open the lid.
* If it's small, try and blow it out.
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.

=== Damage to eyes and skin ===
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.
* The lid's window will block the infrared laser beam, but it doesn't block the visible light produced by the burn. THE VISIBLE LIGHT CAN BE BRIGHT ENOUGH TO DAMAGE YOUR RETINA! DO NOT STARE DIRECTLY AT THE CUT! Use your peripheral vision.
* You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.

=== Crushing danger ===

The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.

Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.

=== Fumes ===
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.

== Care of the machine ==

'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''

The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.

== Paying for your laser time ==

The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.

To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.

There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.

== Workflows ==

=== Overall Workflow ===

This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.

# Laser start up
# Material setup
# Convert file to DXF
# Load file onto the machine
# Dry run
# Cut/Engrave
# Laser shut down
# Cleanup

=== Laser start up ===

[[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]

# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls

=== Material setup ===

# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible
# Place material on the bed
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)

=== Focusing the laser ===

[[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]

Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.

# Place the material on the cut bed
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material
## Note that the honeycomb bed can move up and down (Z-axis) so if the material doesn't fit under, hit Z/U on the laser controls and navigate the menu until Z axis (or something similar) is selected. Then use the left and right arrows to move the bed up and down.
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)
# Remove the focusing discs

=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===

# Load the image into Inkscape
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)
# Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.

=== Debugging DXF Problems ===

Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:

# Select all the problematic shapes
# Path > Object to Path

If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:

# Select all the problematic shapes
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).

Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.

Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).

Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.

=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===

# Import the file with File > Import
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.
# Set the cut order:
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).

=== Manually specifying cut order ===

In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.

=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===

# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest
# Click "Load parameters from library"
# Select the library item
# Click "Load"

=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===

# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters
# Click "Load parameters from library"
# Click "Save as"
# Enter a name and optionally some notes
# Click "Ok"

=== Simulation ===

# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel

=== Cutting ===

# Select the file to use using the File button
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary
# Set the origin by pressing Origin
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button
# Turn the laser power on
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button
# It is generally a good idea to put the laser head into one of the top corners and resetting origin before opening the laser if you plan on adding new material to avoid collisions with a moving head.

=== Engraving ===

In the laser software, open the layers you wish to engrave in the layer parameters panel, and send the processing mode to "Scan". This will do a raster scan of the region bounded by the paths in that layer. An even-odd rule is used to assign regions to the "inside" vs "outside" of the engraving.

=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===

# Pause with the Start/Pause button
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button

=== Laser shut down ===

# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible
# Set origin with the origin button (this helps avoid the laser swinging across the bed later)
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)
# Turn the power off

=== Cleanup ===

[[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]

# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there

=== Calculating work time ===

On the computer:

* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.

On the machine:

* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right

== Fusion 360 ==
Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.

=== Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===
This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time
# Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]
# Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]
# Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]

=== Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===
If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.
# Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]
# Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch
# Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut
# Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut
# Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]

=== Workflow 3: The Long Way ===
This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.
# Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it
# Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM
# Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -> Preview)
## Set Type to Laser Cutting
## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch
## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.
## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut
## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer
## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left
# To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]
# Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again

=== Advanced Options ===
# If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking "CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support". You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.
# There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion
# If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.
# You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended

== Techniques ==

=== Text Cutting ===

In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.

If you're using a cursive font and want everything to be one piece, convert the text object to a path, and use Path > Union. This tool in general is quite useful for merging paths that have been independently drawn but need to be merged into a single path. For example, if you made two overlapping circles, without this the cutter would just cut the two circles, which leads to a lemon-shaped piece in the center. If you union the paths, it will cut an outline as well. Path > Union will not make any holes in the figure go away, it only gets rid of cuts passing through area covered by another shape.

Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.

=== Negative Space Engraving ===

You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.

=== Kerf Compensation ===

For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the "Advance" button next to the "Seal" input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.

In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.

== Troubleshooting ==

=== File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===
If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.
[[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]

== Maintenance==

'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''

* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty
** Cleaning the mirrors
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.
* Checking and performing mirror alignment
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.
* Checking chiller tank water volume
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean
** Checking tank water volume
** Refilling tank water
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)

Signs:
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike>
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike>
* Approved materials
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike>
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike>

Todos:
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike>
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike>
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test
* acquire vinyl record for testing
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle

material notes
* material selection - approved materials list
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)
** nothing reflective
** size constraints
* laser configuration - power, speed
** table of recommmended settings for various materials

How to get a new/novel material approved
* consensus process
* chlorine test

== Chlorine material test ==

Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs.

To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.

First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says "For Non-Laser Fires Only", and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.

Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.

With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.

Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI

== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==

These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''.

{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials
|-
! Material
! Notes
|-
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.
|-
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.
|-
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.
|-
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above.
|-
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires
|-
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.
|-
| ABS || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.
|-
| Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.
|-
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.

|}

== Known good materials ==

These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Good Materials
|-
! rowspan="2" | Material
! colspan="2" | Engraving
! colspan="3" | Cutting
! colspan="2" | Scoring
! rowspan="1" | Notes
|-
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||
|-
|-

|-
| Acrylic (1mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || || The plastic has a tendency to stick back onto itself a little after cutting because it's so thin, so you may have to pop your pieces out

|-
| Acrylic (2mm) || 400 || 5 || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || ||

|-
| Acrylic (3mm) || 400 || 5 || 20 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Power setting 4 and 5 have little visible difference except some minor lightening at the beginnings of cuts at power 4. Power 3.5 produces very light engraving, almost non-existent, with no engraving at the beginnings of cuts. Above power 5, little difference is visible, but powdery soot becomes more prevalent. Power 5 seems to be the best setting to produce frosted effects.

|-
| Acrylic (4.76mm \ 3/16 inch) || 400 || 5 || 16 || 55 || || || ||

|-
| Acrylic (6.35mm) (1/4") || 400 || 5 || 8 || 55 || 0.15mm || || ||

|-
| Acrylic (12.5mm) || 400 || 5 || 3 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm

|-
| Acrylic (18mm) || 400 || 5 || 6 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes

|-
| Balsawood (3.2mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 10 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.

|-
| Balsawood (1.6mm) || 400 || 5 || 50 || 7 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.

|-
| Bamboo (3/32" nominal, 2.5mm actual) || 400 || 3-20 || 55 || 45 || || || || Engraving power 3% produces visible, but very light, marking w/ no depth, 20% produces darker marking but w/ significant depth

|-
| Basswood (1.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 50 || 15 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.

|-
| Basswood (6.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || 20 || 55 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.

|-
| Birch (0.9mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 40 || 20 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.

|-
| Birch (4.8mm) || 400 || 5-15 || 35 || 55 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.

|-
| Birch (1/4 inch plywood from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 15 || 55 || || || || The actual thickness of this stuff varies a lot throughout the sheet, plus there are knots in the wood that are harder to cut through. These settings should work though.

|-
| Birch (1/2 in) || || || 5 || 55 || 0.2mm || || ||

|-
| Cardboard (4mm) || || || 50 || 15 || || 50 || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm

|-
| Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated) || || || 50 || 40 || || || || [[Image:IMG 20161017 232022.jpg|thumb|center|upright|alt=Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)|Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)]]

|-
| Cardstock (white, 80lb) || || || 140 || 6 || || 140 || 4 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.

|-
| Cardstock (white, 138lb / 224GSM, Canson brand drawing paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || speed 140 power 3 for a lighter score, speed 200 power 4 for a heavier score.

|-
| Cardstock (Fabriano brand, 160 GSM, 40% cotton) || || || 100 || 5 || || 140 || 3 || The color tested for safety was Tiziano 02 Crema

|-
| Chipboard (~2mm) || || || 30 || 20 || || || ||

|-
| Chipboard (~6mm) || || || 30 || 25 || || || ||

|-
| Cork (nominal 1/4") || 400 || 2-3 || 30 || 40 || || || ||

|-
| Corrugated Plastic (white, 3.7mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 5 ||

|-
| Corrugated Plastic (yellow, 4.1mm) || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 7 ||

|-
| Delrin (nominal 3/8", actual 9.6mm) || || || 5 || 50 || || || ||

|-
| Denim || 200 || 4 || 50 || 7 || || || || engraving numbers might produce very thin fabric, might fall apart in the wash

|-
| Douglas Fir (15mm) || 400 || 3-25 || 3 || 80 || || || || power differences are mostly differences in depth not color; engraving produces different depths over the growth rings due to wood density changes = rippled surface

|-
| Fabric - 1000D Cordura Nylon || || || 100 || 20 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges

|-
| Fabric - Alpha Broder Style 88127 (7.4oz, 96% polyester, 4% spandex) || || || 100 || 15 || || || || https://www.alphabroder.com/cgi-bin/online/webshr/prod-labeldtl.w?sr=88127

|-
| Fabric - ~0.2mm polyester/cotton blend || || || 100 || 10 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges

|-
| Fabric - ~0.6mm cotton?/spandex blend || || || 200 || 20 || || || || better edges

|-
| Fabric - 100% poly burlap from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX2XZC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) || || || 100 || 7 || || || ||

|-
| Fabric - 100% poly gabardine from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly.

|-
| Fabric - 100% poly polar fleece from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || lovely clean cut

|-
| Fabric - 100% rayon crepe from Fabric Outlet || || || 100 || 7 || || || || You do have to pull the cut fabric apart (it's not a clean cut), but it rips at the cut cleanly. I think this is just a property of the fabric melting back together after being cut. I tried increasing the power and it didn't result in a cleaner cut.

|-
| Glassine (cellulose paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || 100 || 2 ||

|-
| HDPE (0.8mm, 1/32 inch sheet from TAP Plastics) || || || 20 || 30 || || || || creates a beveled edge and a slight under-hanging lip

|-
| MDF (5/8") || || || 5 || 55-75 || || 400 || 5-15 || Cutting doesn't go all the way through necessarily, it gets spotty at this thickness. The power range was tested and produced similar results throughout, but YMMV.

|-
| Notebook from Muji: Recycled paper notebook beige A5 plain, orange spine || || || || || || 50 || 5-35 || 5 will just score through the cover 10-15 will cut through, and 35 will cut through a few pages. Any higher and there's a fire hazard. Be sure to tape or weigh the book down flat or else it's more flamey.

|-
| Paper (printer paper) || || || 55 || 5 || || || ||

|-
| Plywood w/ reddish tinge (2.6mm) || || || 35 || 30 || || || ||

|-
| Plywood (3mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 35 || 50 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving

|-
| Plywood (1/8 inch, square foot for $2.99 from Discount Builders Supply) || || || 50 || 55 || || || ||

|-
| Plywood (5.6mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 15 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving

|-
| Plywood (9.5mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 7 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving

|-
| Plywood (12mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 5 || 55 || || || || requires overcutting beginning/end; see reference in toolbox for engraving

|-
| Plywood (18mm, nominal 3/4") || 400 || 5-55 || 3 || 85 || || || || speed and power is imprecise (3/85 cuts through fine sometimes, while 2/85 doesn't always cut through fine)

|-
| Polyethylene Foam (1/2") || || || 55 || 35 || || || || Requires two passes, doesn't perfectly cut through but is easily separable

|-
| Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || 50 || 10 || || || || Ruth has found that 50 speed 20 power gives a cleaner cut for the 24x45 inch sheets from TAP plastics.

|-
| Polypropylene (1/4in) || || || 4 || 55 || || || ||

|-
| Redwood (20mm) || 100-400 || 55 || 3 || 55 || || || || 5mm/s gets you almost there, so you could probably go over it a second time and it would work instead. Or if you sand it down a bit, that would probably work. I've only tried engraving on max power. You won't get a consistent depth, and it will vary depending on the grain of the wood. Looks col, but just be aware.

|-
| Red Oak (0.25 inch) || 400 || 23 || 12 || 55 || || || || Engraving power 23 gives a dark engrave on a .5-1 mm line thickness. 12-18 gave a lighter engrave. When cutting a knot in the wood, you'll have to use a lower speed, 9-10 will probably work. This wood was high quality scroll wood with almost no knots.

|-
| Rubber (2-3mm, grey, low odor) || 100 || 10 || 20 || 55 || || || ||

|-
| Scotchlite 8930 || || || 55 || 10 || || || || Scotchlite, Reflective Material, 8930 Silver Flame Resistant Fabric

|-
| Silicone (HT 6135 elastomer, Marian Chicago) || || || 22 || 12 || || || ||

|-
| Transparency Sheets || || || 400 || 6 || || || || Only chlorine and speed/power tested a mystery brand from Switzerland that Henner bought; other brands may require tests again

|}

The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.

== Sourcing Material ==

In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.

For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.

For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.

== Troubleshooting ==

=== Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===
The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.
When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -> Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.
(TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)

=== SOLIDWORKS ===
Apparently DXFs exported from Solidworks (at least v 2017) break when directly imported into RDWorks. The workaround is to import the DXF into Inkscape and re-export it from there.

Noisebridge 10 Year Anniversary Exhibition and Ball

2017-09-09T20:58:37Z

Rfong: /* The Noisebridge 10 Year Anniversary Exhibition Schedule */

[[Category:NB10]]
<pre style="color: red; font-size:xx-large;">
2017 SEPTEMBER 9-10
- Noisebridge EXHIBITION WEEKEND
2017 SEPTEMBER 9 21:00
- Noisebridge TIME TRAVEL BALL and FUNDRAISER

2017 SEPTEMBER 12 20:00
- Noisebridge LIVE DISCUSSION
                WITH A SUPER SPECIAL GUEST
</pre>

==Noisebridge 10 Year Anniversary Exhibition and Ball==

[[File:NB10-PosterForWiki.jpg|400px|right]]

'''Noisebridge has existed as a community of hackers for 10 years and has been providing cyber infrastructure for 9 years!''' During that time we've been example of good (and not so good) ways to be a Hackerspace, but we keep learning and hacking on.

:To celebrate, we're going to have a '''EXHIBITION weekend''' packed with as much, of what we have learned and worked on together, as possible; and will accentuate it in the middle with a big '''TIME TRAVEL themed BALL and fundraiser'''.

::The Exhibition will be September 9th and 10th.
::The [[Noisebridge_10_Year_Anniversary_Exhibition_and_Ball#Noisebridge_TIME_TRAVEL_Ball|TIME TRAVEL BALL]] will be the evening of September 9th.
::''Please see the Schedule below for details''

'''You are invited!'''

:All events are open to the public and donation based ''(no one turned away for lack of funds)''. You are invited to attend this Exhibition and Ball and celebrate with us. We’ll be setting up Noisebridge Hackerspace to display projects, have panels and presentations, share our stories, host classes and workshops, play games, play music, and party.

'''You can participate!'''

:All are also encouraged to participate, educate, and volunteer to make this event even more special. Bring friends, bring your projects, bring your skills, bring your plans, bring ideas you want to share. Let us see what you have been working on. '''''together, we will look into the past and toward the future.'''''

'''Volunteers Wanted'''
:Please see the [[Noisebridge_10_Year_Anniversary_Exhibition_and_Ball#Volunteer_Positions_needed_during_the_Exhibition_and_Ball|list of positions]] we are looking for help with. If you would like to help, contact [[User:Jarrod|Jarrod]] hicksu@gmail.com

 

===LIVE DISCUSSION WITH SUPER SPECIAL GUEST===
[[File:NoisebridgeLiveDiscussion.jpg|300px]] '''We can't tell you who''', since word would spread,and Noisebridge would be mobbed! But, please come to Noisebridge on        '''Tuesday, September 12th, 8:00pm''' when [[User:Maltman23|Mitch]] will lead an informal discussion with a super special guest! '''This is one famous person who you definitely want to meet!''' There will be time for Q&A. NOTE: The special guest is not Steve Jobs, Michael Jackson, or Nancy Reagan '''''Please come early, since we can only admit the first 150 people.'''''

 

__TOC__

==The Noisebridge 10 Year Anniversary Exhibition Schedule==

However, after 10 years, we probably have a few things we could talk about. This schedule continues to grow and adjust and the Exhibition and Ball Develops. If you are interested in running a workshop, we still have a few openings. The exhibition and all events are open to the public and donation based. Please note that some classes are going to fill up fast.



{| class="wikitable"
|- style="vertical-align:top;"
|* '''Saturday September 9th'''
** 10:00 Projects setup
** (12:00 Godwaffle Noise Pancakes - Experimental Electronic Music)
** 14:00 '''EXHIBITION OFFICIAL START'''
*** All Day: Project Displays, Puzzle Boxes
** 14:00
*** KEYNOTE SPEAKER: Mitch Altman - The importance of Noisebridge to the International Hackerspace Movement
*** All Day: Project Displays, Puzzle Boxes
** 15:00
*** Show and Tell of DIY Audio / Visual Projects | Hackitorium
****Lee, Noa, Mitch, Anthony, and more tbd
*** TOOOL-SF Lockpicking Village | Dirty Shop - until 19:00
**** Robert
*** Paperboard Led Lamp Making | Sparkle Forge
**** Mauricio and Rafael
*** Constrained Parametric Polymorphism in Rust | Church Classroom
**** Without Boats
** 16:00 Afternoon Tea
*** Tea and refreshments | Outside Sparkle Forge
*** Impromptu Project Show and Tell in the Hackitorium
**** Open to short presentations by Exhibtion Attendees
** 17:00
*** Moldover's Project Presentation | Hackitorium
**** Moldover
*** Dead Simple Dresses | Sewing Area
**** Lady Red
*** Inkscape Tutorial for Laser Cutting | Sparkle Forge
**** Ruth ([[User: ruthgrace ]])
**** BRING YOUR OWN LAPTOP
*** PGP workshop for Beginners | Church Classroom
****please bring your computer
****please install a PGP-compatible email client, like Thunderbird
****If possible, please have your email already configured with the email client
** 18:00
*** Stupid Shit Hackathon Regretrospective | Hackitorium
**** Various speakers
*** (TBD: Laser Cutter workshop)
** ~19:30 '''Noisebridge TIME TRAVEL Ball!'''
*** Performances - Hackitorium
**** Suyash
**** RichDDT
**** Moldover
**** Doctor Striker
*** Gnaraoke | Sparkle Forge
*** VRdrome | Church Classroom
*** Board and Card games | Dirty Shop
*** Turing Gallery
|
* '''Sunday, September 10th'''
** 10:00 Ball Cleanup and Setup
** 12:00 '''EXHIBITION - DAY 02 BEGINS!'''
** All Day: Project Displays, Puzzle Boxes
** 12:00
*** Music Synthesis for Newbies: How to make sounds with microcontrollers | Church Classroom
**** Mitch
** 13:00
*** Battery Liberation workshop | Dirty Shop
**** X
*** Crypto and Privacy Micro-Conference | Hackitorium
**** Yan
** 14:00
*** Frontend Web Development: What's changed in the last 6 years | Church Classroom
**** Jeffrey
*** Sewing 101 | Sewing Area
**** Lady Red
*** 3D Printing Workshop | Sparkle Forge
**** Kelly A
*** TOOOL-SF Lockpicking Village - Dirty Shop - until 19:00
**** Robert
** 16:00 Afternoon Tea
*** Tea and refreshments | Outside Sparkle Forge
*** Musical Performance | Hackitoruim
**16:30
***Gamebridge UnityVersity | Church Classroom
**** Alex
** 17:00
*** Circuit Hacking with the 555 Timer - Hackitorium
**** J
*** DIY Pockets | Sewing Area
**** Ruth ([[User: ruthgrace ]])
**** BRING CLOTHES THAT NEED POCKETS
*** (TBD: Laser Cutter workshop)
**19:00
*** Noisebridge Fireside Chat | Hackitorium
**** [[User:Malaclyps|Danny]], [[User:Maltman23|Mitch]], Shannon, and others...
** 20:30
*** 50 Years of 5 Minutes of Fame - A Celebration
** 22:00 Closing statement(s)
*** Chill and Chat
|}

'''TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 12th, 8:00pm''' 
LIVE DISCUSSION WITH SUPER SPECIAL AWESOME GUEST! 
''Please come early, since we can only admit the first 150 people.''

 

==Noisebridge TIME TRAVEL Ball and Fundraiser==

[[File:NB10-Ball-Banner.jpg|768px|right]]

Our donation based '''TIME TRAVEL themed Ball (and fundraiser), starts on Saturday Night September 9th starting at 19:30'''.

Music and Visual Artists will be performing live at Noisebridge. VR projects and games will be demonstrated. Gnaraoke will be sung. Games will be played. Decorations will be decorative.

All are encouraged to come dressed as a Time Traveller. ''If you are a Time Traveller, you've probably already been to the party and hopefully you wore something festive.''

If you would like to bring artwork, or an activity to the Ball please contact Jarrod - hicksu@gmail.com to coordinate, or just surprise us.
 

====Live Performances by:====

[[File:NB10-Suyash-Banner.jpg|600px|right]]

Suyash Joshi aka '''Techillusionist''' - Technology and Magic combined and performed in new and exciting ways. Suyash Joshi is San Francisco based creative technologist who enjoys hacking on advance technology - IOT, VR, AR, Drones etc to create illusions and magical affects in his performances. He will be presenting a mix of old and new magic show for hackers and makers at the 10th ball evening.
 
 
[[File:NB10-RichDDT-Banner.jpg|600px|right]]

'''LoveTech''' connects artists and communities around engaging experiences, leveraging fresh talent and cutting-edge innovation to expand the dimensions of human expression. We feature established artists pushing the boundaries of what’s possible, as well as emerging artists exploring new spaces in interactive media. '''RICH DDT''' is a live electronic music producer/performer, interactive installation designer, and event organizer who is passionately repurposing the latest technology to create an awe-inspiring, open and supportive environment for human connection.

http://lovetech.org , http://richddt.com
 
 
[[File:NB10-Moldover-Banner.jpg|600px|right]]

History notes only a handful of artists who successfully pushed the limits - both with their music and with the design of their musical instruments. What Bach was to the keyboard and Hendrix was to the guitar, '''Moldover''' is to the controller. Disillusioned with “press play DJs”, Moldover fans eagerly welcome electronic music’s return to virtuosity, improvisation, and emotional authenticity. Dig deeper into Moldover’s world and you’ll uncover a subversive cultural icon who is jolting new life into physical media with “Playable Packaging”, sparking beautiful collaborations with his custom “Jamboxes”, and drawing wave after wave of followers with an open-source approach to sharing his methods and madness.

http://moldover.com/
 
 
[[File:NB10-DoctorStriker-Banner.jpg|600px|right]]

Imagining a sonic world that diverged from our own in 1991, '''Doctor Striker''' shreds and roars over heavy beats, guitar riffs, bass lines, and synth hooks. He brings the classical and punk worlds together with training and discipline to electronic pop to create a political, personal and incisively optimistic brand of music.

http://doctorstriker.com/
 
 

==Volunteer Positions needed during the Exhibition and Ball==

Would you like to help with the event? Do you need help with a portion of the event? Drop in volunteers before and during the Exhibition are of course welcome, but if you would like to help in a larger more specific way, Please add yourself below if you like and let others know what you can help with or what you will need help with.

{| class="wikitable"
|- style="vertical-align:top;"
|
* '''Workshop Assistant'''
** Help presenters prepare spaces between events
|
* '''Usher'''
** Greet People, Offer information and tours
|
* '''Event Safety-er'''
** Look out for hazards that develop in the space and clean them. Make sure exits are clear. Look out for the safety of the attendees.
|-
|
* '''Ball - between set DJ'''
** Help setup a DJ booth and play music between Live music sets
|
* '''AV and IT Support'''
** Assist performers and presenters with AV and IT setups
|
* '''Videographer'''
** We need help recording, editing, and streaming / uploading events.
|-
|
* '''Decorator and Production team member'''
** Help in the days leading up the the event, and during, designing, making, and installing decorations, infrastructure, and exhibits
|
* '''Laser Cutter Trainer'''
** We'd like to add some laser cutter trainings to the event schedule
|
* '''Magic Assistant'''
** Work with Suyash to cue up music for his performance
|}

==[[NB10_Events_and_Presenters|Exhibition Event Descriptions and Presenter Biographies]]==

"Noisebridge is a space for sharing, creation, collaboration, research, development, mentoring, and of course, learning."

This page has more details about some of the events and presenters that will make up the Exhiition, if you would like to know more.

==[[NB10_Project_Displays|Projects Show and Tell during Exhibition days]]==

'''Please bring projects which you would like to show and share''' during the Exhibition days

We want to see what things people have been working on. We will have tables, and most any space in Noisebridge, setup for people to display their projects.

If you need special accommodations or setup and logistics help for your project please contact [[User:jarrod|Jarrod]] an we'll see what we can work out.

==[[NB10_Preparations|NB10 Preparations Schedule and Task List]]==

'''Would you would like to help get the space cleaned up, upgraded, and ready for the Noisebridge 10 Year Anniversary Exhibition and Ball?''' Please see this page for a list of tasks that would be welcome do-ocratic fixes and upgrades to the space. Please add your own as needed.

==[[NB10_Donors|Noisebridge 10 Year Anniversary Exhibition and Ball Donors]]==

Would you like to support the event with a donation?

We will need food, drinks, and other supplies. If we have a silent auction for fundraising, is there something you would like to offer? As we plan the Exhibition, we'll add more specific things that we will be looking for help and donations for here.

==[[NB10_Media|Noisebridge 10 Year Anniversary Exhibition and Ball on the Internet and Media]]==

Here are various sites where this event is also being listed.

https://www.facebook.com/events/1928655940682323/

https://www.meetup.com/noisebridge/events/241834198/

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/noisebridge-10-year-anniversary-exhibition-and-ball-tickets-36881185619?aff=es2

Laser Manual

2017-03-03T21:36:27Z

Rfong: /* Who can use the laser cutter */

== Contact list ==

=== Trainers ===

* Scotty Allen (@scotty on slack)
* Darryl (@augur on slack and freenode)
* Ruth Grace (@ruthgrace on slack)
* Kyle (@kylesewing on slack)
* Trent (@robbintt on slack)

== Who can use the laser cutter ==

Only people who have been trained by an official trainer can use the laser cutter, in order to prevent unintended damage to the machine, operator, and Noisebridge.

People that have successfully completed the class:
* Scotty Allen (@scotty) - Trainer
* Darryl McAdams(@augur) - Trainer
* Ruth Grace Wong (@ruthgrace) - Trainer
* Kyle Ng (@kylesewing) - Trainer
* Trent Robbins (@robbintt) - Trainer
* Henner Zeller (@hzeller)
* Adrian Kelly (@akelly)
* Nick Pisaro (@nickp)
* Patrick O'Doherty (@patrickod)
* John Foote (@rrmutt)
* Naomi Most (@nthmost)
* Joyti Jit (@joyti)
* David Lopez (@davidlopez)
* Sigma (no slack)
* Steve Young (@fineline)
* Collin Overbay (@cjoverbay)
* Ryan (slack tbd)
* J (@j)
* Nemesis Contreras (@nemesisc)
* Matt McKenna (@mpmckenna8)
* Olivier (@olivier)
* Juan (@jclavijo)
* Dany (@danyq)
* Andres Polit
* Edward (@edwardlui531)
* Ely Rodriguez
* Devan Mitchell
* Johnna Calvillo (@johnna)
* Jeff Tchang (@tachang)
* @jslack
* AndyMC (@signal)
* Mohammed (@mohammed)
* Chris (@chris)
* Joanna Ma (no slack)
* Tim Walsh (@classictim)
* David Afolabi (@davidafolabi)
* Jeremy Llewellyn (no slack)
* Steven Wilcox (no slack)
* Robby Nevels (@robz)
* Douglas (@greenshoos)
* Yuki (@yukims19)
* Sean Grove (@sgrove)
* Vicky (@vickydee)
* Jason (@redconfetti)
* William Brown (no slack)
* Joe Grasser (no slack)
* Jenny Liu (no slack)
* Amber Zertuche (no slack)
* Jarrod Hicks (jarrod)
* Renana Horesh (no slack)
* Jonathan Friedman (no slack)
* Beerit Goldfarb (no slack)
* Yotam Daniel (no slack)
* Karin Levi (no slack)
* Drew Skillman (no slack)
* Nick Hohman (@nohman)
* Nathan Argetsinger (no slack)
* Albert Tien (no slack)
* Michaela Carmein (no slack)
* Kadir Barry (no slack)
* Lee Azzarello (@steelnivenson)
* Lilah Kitty (no slack)
* Kitty (no slack)
* Alejandro "Alex" Leyva (no slack)
* Stephen Tranovich (no slack)
* Asya (@asyalit)
* Barakah (no slack)
* Manny (no slack)
* Vera Dikoun (no slack)
* Ronald Sebilo-Tibbits (no slack)
* Dave Irwin(@daveirwin)
* Kelsi N. Dunkelbarger (no slack)
* Ethan Ep (no slack)
* Akihiko Satoda (no slack)
* Kevin Morris (no slack)
* Drew Erny (@dperny)
* Alex Ray (no slack)
* Dave Walker (no slack)
* Mitch Altman (@altman23)
* Bogdan Vitoc (no slack)
* Kai Habermann (no slack)
* Chris Gervang (no slack)
* Ian Griggs (no slack)
* Islam El-Ashi (no slack)
* Parul Desai (no slack)
* Emma Bahroos
* Paul Velasquez (no slack)
* Stefanie Ku (no slack yet)
* Veli Mattila (no slack yet)
* Conrad Schuman (no slack)
* Sterling Springgate (@sspringgate)
* Rafael Send (no slack)
* Roger Filmyer (@roger)
* Tristan Horn (no slack)
* Raymond Young (no slack)
* Neil Bachers (no slack)
* Charlie S (@Chaz)
* Belinda (@belindamo)
* Raneem (no slack)
* Charlie E (no slack)
* Dawn H (@dawn)
* Trevor Lewellen (no slack)
* Keyvan Shovir (no slack)
* John Shen (no slack)
* Calvin Rachuy (no slack)
* Terris Poole (tpoole8@gmail.com)
* Lizzie (@lizzie)
* Marcos Oap (no slack)
* Bob Stein (no slack)
* Scott Albritton
* Nicole Borgaard (@gaardn)
* Aaron Elligsen (not yet slacked)
* Meeks Baker (no slack yet)
* Jacob Fenwick (no slack yet)
* Stuart Mason (no slack)
* Nathan Heidt (no slack)
* Tracy Weiss (no slack)
* Ewa Anna Szyszka (no slack)
* Lizzy A (no slack yet)
* SYA Warfield (no slack yet!)
* Dan Lipsitt
* Dara Kosberg (no slack yet)
* Terence Goldberg (no slack)
* Dan Cooper (no slack)
* LUS KA
* Noah Swartz
* Danielle Baskin
* Jervon Graves
* Rachel Fong (@rfong)
* Blake Griffith
* Joe Meissler (stickperson on irc)
* Leslie Mueller (no slack)
* Allison (no slack)
* Kincaid Kawananakoa (kincaidkawananakoa@gmail.com)
* Victoria Fierce (@tdfischer)
* Mike Roderick (no slack)
* hannaH Cauldwell (no slack)
* Grzegorz Biesiadecki (no slack)
* lloyd pollock(no slack)
* Edward Shively (no slack)
* Kyle Morris (no slack)
* Rae Parnmukh (no slack)
* Joe Kniss (no slack)
* Oskar Garcia (no slack)
* Nanu (no slack)
* Lawrence Kesteloot (no slack)
* Warren Cheng (no slack)
* Dot Richards (no slack)
* Alexander Lin (no slack)
* Melanie Day (no slack)
* Tara Brooks (no slack)
* Sam Lanning (@sam)
* Manish (@manishearth)
* Shane Lillya (no slack)
* Jason Yosinski (no slack)
* Chetan Verma (no slack)
* Eyal Aklimi (no stack)
* Chloe Revery (no slack)
* Eran Rundstein (no slack)
* Tommy Payne (no slack)
* Luke Daenen (no shlack)

== How to get trained to use the laser cutter ==

# Ask a trainer if they will train you
# Schedule a time with the trainer
## The laser training class size is limited to 5 students, so that everyone can see how to operate the laser.
# Get trained
# Get your name on the list of users before the first time you use the machine

The laser training class is pay-what-you-can, and the recommended minimum donation is $20.

== Basic Safety ==
The laser cutter is generally a very safe machine to use. However, as with all industrial machines, you need to treat it with respect. The main safety concerns are creating fires, hurting your eyes or skin, getting crushed by the machine, and creating toxic fumes.

The basics:
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER BEAM CUTTING YOUR WORK!
* OPEN THE LID if you see a fire
* BLOW IT OUT if the fire keeps burning
* DON'T CUT UNAPPROVED MATERIALS!

=== Fire ===

[[Image:Laser_water_estop.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser cutter with water and estop| The water squirt bottle is sitting on top of the laser, and the estop is the round red button.]]

You can really hurt yourself or burn the building down with this machine. If you follow the safety rules, the chances of you causing this is close to zero. Some materials are very flammable on the laser cutter, and shouldn't be cut. Never cut an unapproved material, or a material you can't identify. A laser beam can also initiate a fire if the speed of the cut is too slow or the laser power is set too high.

Ways to not cause fires:
* ALWAYS WATCH THE LASER CUTTER WHENEVER IT IS CUTTING AS FIRES CAN HAPPEN. The laser affects your material by heating it. Your job can change in seconds with the accumulation of heat in your material. Never leave the room while the laser is in operation. If you leave the laser unattended, your access to the laser cutter will be permanently revoked.
* Use reasonable speed/power settings. Start with the recommended speed/power settings for your material. Be patient - resist the temptation to crank the power and speed to rush through your job. This can cause fires.
** There will be some light when material is cut. This light at the point of lasing may be ok as long as it stays with the motion of the laser. If a flame appears while the laser is in operation, stop your job and try again with lower heat settings.
* Know where the fire extinguisher is in case of a fire. The ONLY fire extinguisher that should be used on the laser cutter is the halotron extinguisher right next to the laser cutter. Other fire extinguishers are corrosive and will ruin the machine.

How to put out a fire:
* Push the estop. (To turn the machine back on after the estop was hit, you need to switch the power switch on the right hand side of the machine off and on again).
* Open the lid.
* If it's small, try and blow it out.
* If it's smallish, try and squirt it out with the water squirt bottle sitting on the right hand side of the machine.
* If that doesn't work, use the halotron fire extinguisher to the right of the laser cutter. Aim it at the base of the flame.

=== Damage to eyes and skin ===
The laser beam can instantly and permanently blind you. It can also burn your skin.
* You don't ever want any part of your body in contact with the beam.
* As long as the door is closed, you're safe to look at the laser. There are interlocks on the door that help ensure the laser never operates with the doors open. Don't disable them.

=== Crushing danger ===

The laser cutter is a dumb machine. It doesn't care whether your hand is in the way when it's moving. The head can move when the door is open. Always make sure everyone's hands are out of the machine before moving the head.

Also be very careful not to crash the head into other parts of the machine. Be very careful when moving the z-axis to not crash the head into the bed, and to not move the z-axis if the focus length acrylic circle is under the lens.

=== Fumes ===
The laser cutter burns the things it's cutting, which can create toxic fumes.
* ONLY CUT APPROVED MATERIALS. Cutting nonapproved materials can release really toxic gases, including chlorine and cyanide. These are really bad for humans, as well as being very damaging to the laser cutter.
* The ventilation fan should always be running if the laser cutter is on, even if it's not cutting. It's currently wired such that you can't turn on the laser cutter without the fan turning on, but please make sure it's running.

== Care of the machine ==

'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''

The laser cutter is finely calibrated piece of machinery. Please close the lid gently, and do not push or jar the machine at any time. Do not lean or press on the tray - it's fragile, and needs to be perfectly flat for the laser cutter to cut properly. If you take the honeycomb bed or slats out, please be ULTRA CAREFUL with them - put them somewhere where they won't get damaged or warped.

== Paying for your laser time ==

The laser cutter has parts that wear out over time, which can be quite costly to replace, especially the laser tube. A new tube costs several thousand dollars. Thus, we require people to pay for the time on the laser they use, so we can pay for new parts. The cost for using the laser cutter is $5 per hour of cutting time.

To figure out how much time your job takes, press the File button, select your file, and then select Work Time from the menu. It will tell you in hours:minutes.seconds.

There is a laser cutter donation box on the wall of the Sparkle Forge room. Please pay for the cutting time you actually use, even if you end up running your job multiple times.

== Workflows ==

=== Overall Workflow ===

This is the overall structure of the workflow. Each part is elaborated below.

# Laser start up
# Material setup
# Convert file to DXF
# Load file onto the machine
# Dry run
# Cut/Engrave
# Laser shut down
# Cleanup

=== Laser start up ===

[[Image:Laser_chiller.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser chiller| The laser chiller is the box on the bottom left of this photograph. If the laser doesn't beep when it turns on, you should turn on the chiller manually.]]

# Turn on power and ensure that the fan and chiller are running. If you do not hear beeps when the laser starts up, the chiller is not running and you must turn it on.
# Move the head as far forward and right as possible, close to the controls

=== Material setup ===

# Clean the bed of any scraps that may be on it
# Move the cut head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible
# Raise the bed to the desired height, watching the laser head to avoid crashes
# Move the laser head as far back and right as possible
# Place material on the bed
# Focus the laser (do at least for each distinct thickness, optimally do for each piece of material)

=== Focusing the laser ===

[[Image:Laser_shelf.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Shelf by laser cutter | This is the shelf to the left of the laser cutter. The acrylic disks used for focusing the laser are in the toolbox with the yellow lid.]]

Noisebridge has acryllic disks cut to various thicknesses that can be used to accurately focus the laser. Specifically the laser head needs to be locked to 8mm above the surface of the material you're cutting.

# Place the material on the cut bed
# Move the cut head to the center of the area to cut, watching the laser head to avoid crashes w/ material
# Loosen the wing nut and raise the head all the way up
# Place the focusing discs on the material under the head
# Lower the head until it just touches the focusing disc (8mm above material)
# Lock the head in place (tighten the wing nut)
# Remove the focusing discs

=== Convert an image in Inkscape to a DXF file ===

# Load the image into Inkscape
# Set the different cut paths to different colors (for controlling settings, etc.)
# Perform any debugging steps (by default you should perform all of them b/c of errors in the laser software)
# Save as a DXF. Be sure to make the units be millimeters so that importing later will correctly scale the image.

=== Debugging DXF Problems ===

Sometimes exporting to DXF introduces bizarre extra lines. There are two things to try to debug. The first is to convert objects to paths:

# Select all the problematic shapes
# Path > Object to Path

If this fails to resolve the issue, you can try a more radical solution which will eliminate all bezier paths entirely:

# Select all the problematic shapes
# Convert bezier paths to lines (Extensions > Modify Path > Flatten Bezier).

Flatness 0.5 is good to start with. Smaller = better approximation of the curves. A lower flatness number takes more time to compute, but also produces a better approximation to the curve.

Sometimes need to select the path's directly with the path tool (but not the points!).

Also see http://www.pstoedit.net/ for conversion from svg to dxf files.

=== Loading into the laser cutter software ===

# Import the file with File > Import
# Resize as needed, tho if the file was exported w/ millimeter units, the software should also import the image with the correct size.
# Set the cut order:
##* EITHER Set the cut order to inside-out (Handle > Cut optimize > Inside to outside)
##* OR Manually specify cut order with the Set cut property tool (Edit > Set cutting property). See below for more details.
# Set the speed and power for the layers as necessary, and the process mode for each layer to either cut (for continuous line cutting) or dot (for dashed line cutting) or scan (for engraving)
# Optionally, simulate the cutting/engraving process.
# Download to the machine (Laser Work panel on the bottom right).

=== Manually specifying cut order ===

In the Set cutting property window (Edit > Set cutting property), you can manually re-order the cut paths. In the window, you'll see an image of the workpiece, and to its right, two lists of paths. When you first open the window, all of the cut paths are in the left. If you select a path (either in the image or in the list) and click the button labeled ">>", this path will be transferred to the end of the right list of paths. If you click ">>>", all of the paths in the left list will be moved to the end of the right list (preserving order). Similarly, clicking "<<<" will move the right list to the end of the left list. If you select a cut path in the right list, the up and down arrow buttons will reorder that path in the chosen direction.

=== Loading speed and power settings from library ===

# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest
# Click "Load parameters from library"
# Select the library item
# Click "Load"

=== Saving power and speed settings to library ===

# In the top right panel, double click the layer of interest
# Make sure the layer is set to the desired parameters
# Click "Load parameters from library"
# Click "Save as"
# Enter a name and optionally some notes
# Click "Ok"

=== Simulation ===

# Open the simulation window with either Edit > Preview or the toolbar button labelled with a monitor.
# Click the Simulation button in the right panel

=== Cutting ===

# Select the file to use using the File button
# Move the head to the initial guess origin with the arrow buttons
# Test the frame with the Frame button adjust origin as necessary
# Set the origin by pressing Origin
# Test the cut by turning the laser power off and pressing the Start/Pause button
# Turn the laser power on
# Cut by pressing the Start/Pause button

=== Engraving ===

TODO

=== Cancel a cut/dry run ===

# Pause with the Start/Pause button
# Cancel and move back to the origin with the Esc button

=== Laser shut down ===

# Move the head as far forward and right as possible (near the controls)
# Raise the laser head as far up as possible
# Let the fan run for a little bit (~30 seconds)
# Turn the power off

=== Cleanup ===

[[Image:Laser_tray.jpg|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=Laser bottom tray| This is the bottom tray of the laser, which should be cleaned out after use.]]

# Remove pieces of material scrap left on the bed
# Open the tray door on the front bottom and empty the scraps left there

=== Calculating work time ===

On the computer:

* Open the simulation window (see above). Total work time and time of laser use are displayed in the top right. Donations should be calculated by laser use, not total work time.

On the machine:

* Whole file: File > Select file > Right Arrow > Work Time > Enter
* Current run: Pause the cut, then check time at the bottom right

== Fusion 360 ==
Fusion 360 is a free CAD (Computer Aided Design) program from Autodesk for designing 3D parts, and arguably the best one currently available. If you're designing something complex on the laser cutter, particularly with multiple parts that need to fit together, I highly recommend it over drawing programs like Inkscape. It also has CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) capabilities, which makes it very useful for CNC machining and laser cutting. There's a copy of the software on the laser cutter computer, and you can download it [http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview here]. It's free as long as you make less than $100k per year using it.

=== Workflow 1: The Quick and Dirty Way ===
This is the fastest way, and works a lot of the time
# Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]
# Make sure your part is designed using a single sketch, and that you want to cut all the lines in that sketch. If not, go to [[#Workflow 2: The Middle Ground]]
# Right click on your sketch and click Save As DXF
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]

=== Workflow 2: The Middle Ground ===
If you're not sure, this is probably where you should start.
# Make sure your sketch only contains straight lines, arcs, and circles, and no spline curves. If your sketch has splines, go to [[#Workflow 3: The Long Way]]
# Right click on the top surface of the part you want to cut, and click Create Sketch
# Hit the P key to open the Project dialog box, then select the top surface of your part, and any other lines you want to cut
# Hit OK, then remove any lines you don't want cut
# Open the Sketches folder near the top of the tree, then right click your new sketch and click Save As DXF
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]

=== Workflow 3: The Long Way ===
This allows more complicated things like exporting splines, which doesn't work with the above methods, kerf compensation, which makes your parts fit together snugly, but you can also use the above methods and then do it in RDWorks, or lead-ins and lead-outs, which can make for a cleaner cut, but I can't figure out how to get RDWorks to import correctly.
# Design a part to be laser cut by drawing a 2D sketch and extruding it
# Go to the CAM workspace by clicking the Model button in the top left, then selecting CAM
# Select the Waterjet operation (if you don't see this, turn it on under Preferences -> Preview)
## Set Type to Laser Cutting
## Select the Cutting Mode, either Through - Auto or Etch
## Look up the kerf of the material you're cutting in the [[#Known good materials]] section, and enter that in Kerf Width, or if your material's not listed, cut one a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1166680 kerf gauge] and put the result in the wiki. The kerf changes depending on the thickness, speed and power. Setting a larger kerf width will make your parts fit tighter, and setting a smaller kerf will make them looser.
## Select the contours of your part that you want to cut
## Go to the Passes tab, and change Compensation Type to In Computer
## Hit OK to close the dialog box, and you can see a preview of your tool path. You can go back to edit it by double clicking the contour operation in the tree on the left
# To export to DXF, click the Post Process button, which says G1 G2. Make sure rdworkslaser is selected as your post processor, type a name for the export and hit Post. Then select the folder to put it in.
# Import the DXF in RDWorks, and continue with the standard workflow starting at [[#Loading into the laser cutter software]]
# Fusion automatically orders the cuts from inside out and in the fastest order, but RDWorks doesn't always respect that order, so you may need to optimize the cut order again

=== Advanced Options ===
# If you're using your own computer for the first time and not the laser cutter desktop, you have to enable the laser cutter support which is still in beta, by clicking on your name in the top right, then Preferences, Preview, and checking "CAM - Waterjet/Laser/Plasma cutter support". You will also need to download the custom post processor that we use for this laser.
# There's a simulate button to the left of the Post Process button, if you want to do it in Fusion
# If you want to disable or tweak the lead ins and lead outs, you can go to the Linking tab. Lead ins and lead outs can fix the bump you get on the side of your part where the laser started and stopped, but they also make extra cuts in your scrap material, which you may want to keep. In this tab you can also specify the Entry Position for each cut path.
# You can disable Kerf Compensation by settting Sideways Compensation to Center under the Passes tab, though this is not recommended

== Techniques ==

=== Text Cutting ===

In Inkscape, after converting the text object to a path, it's necessary to ungroup the text as well, to create separate paths, prior to flattening the bezier curves.

Engraved text requires no other special technique because no cuts are made, but text cutting is non-trivial. Because of loops, it's sometimes desirable to use a stencil font, especially at smaller scales where legibility is important. 1001 Fonts has a number of stencil fonts for free. At 10pt, some good fonts are Marsh, Spacedock, and Allerta.

=== Negative Space Engraving ===

You can engrave a vector shape with a hole in the middle of it, so that you get enclosed portions that are not engraved in the middle of fully engraved portions. To do this, when you construct the image in your editor of choice, simply perform subtraction between the relevant paths, to remove the inner part. In the RDWorks laser software, the two paths will show up, and be independently editable (making them look like just two distinct paths to engrave), but they will engrave correctly as a negative space. Obviously test this w/ your software; this technique is known to work using Inkscape.

=== Kerf Compensation ===

For any given layer, you can compensate for the kerf (width of the cut) by opening it's settings and clicking the "Advance" button next to the "Seal" input box towards the middle-bottom. Enable sew compensation, and pick the direction and sew width (kerf size). The inward direction will make the actual cut move toward the inside of a closed cut path, outward will move it towards the outside.

In general, for cuts on the outside, you want to move outward, to move the actual cut edge be exactly where the path is in your design. For cuts on the inside, you want to use the inward direction.

== Troubleshooting ==

=== File doesn't appear in laser cutter after successful download ===
If the laser cutter has 99 files loaded into it, new files will not show up. To fix this, open up RDWorks8, and on the right side, select the Doc tab. Inside that tab, click Read to read all the files in the laser cutter, and then click Delete all.
[[Image:laser_cutter_read_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=read files | This is the button used to read stored files from the laser cutter.]] [[Image:laser_cutter_delete_all_files.png|thumb|right|upright=3|alt=delete all files | This is the button used to delete all stored files from the laser cutter to make room for new ones.]]

== Maintenance==

'''Please don't perform any maintenance on the machine (including cleaning lenses/mirrors or aligning mirrors) unless you've specifically trained on it.'''

* TEMP note: some check(s) may be included outside of maintenance so a user can trigger a maintenance notification
* DON'T - let someone who has been trained do it
* how to tell if the lens is dirty (or getting old?)
* how to tell if the mirrors are dirty
** Cleaning the mirrors
*** ethanol solution? isopropanol? - see manual.
*** fabric must be non scratch - see manual.
* Checking and performing mirror alignment
** Safety - remove gratings and any other reflective surfaces before any maintenance that requires disabling the door sensors.
** TEMP note: in restrospect the alignment was a very dangerous situation. mirror paths were not checked before powering on the laser with the door open with many people around. (or maybe nigel is just insanely good at configuring mirrors... still... reddit.com/r/OSHA)
** Tape test - mirrors 1,2,3 and their corresponding exits. Slightly propped laser tube.
** vertical/horizontal alignment by brass dial.
* Checking chiller tank water volume
** Chiller alarm - what does it mean
** Checking tank water volume
** Refilling tank water
* Cleaning the bed and waste drawer (this section probably should be moved to usage)

Signs:
* <strike>Don't open front/back passthrough doors (for now)</strike>
* <strike>Fire extinguishers - which to use for what fire</strike>
* Approved materials
* <strike>careful when raising bed, dont crash into laser head</strike>
* move laser head out of the way before opening the lid
* power off the laser before opening the lid ???
* <strike>watch the laser while it is cutting</strike>

Todos:
* <strike>Move the machine further away from the right wall so we can get to the power switch.</strike>
* <strike>label the water squirt bottle as for fires and not to remove</strike>
* acquire piece of copper for chlorine materials test
* acquire vinyl record for testing
* acquire propane bottle and nozzle

material notes
* material selection - approved materials list
** nothing that generates hazerdous fumes, particularly chlorine/formeldahyde
** no aluminum or other metals (?? ryan claims these can be safely engraved in this machine)
** nothing reflective
** size constraints
* laser configuration - power, speed
** table of recommmended settings for various materials

How to get a new/novel material approved
* consensus process
* chlorine test

== Chlorine material test ==

Before you cut any new material you *must* check that it is safe to cut; specifically that it will not produce chlorine gas when it is burned by the cutting laser. Chlorine is extremely dangerous in its gaseous form and so must be avoided at all costs.

To test a new material, you'll need a sample of the material, a small copper rod (about the thickness of a coat hanger), a pliars, and a handheld propane torch. We'll test for the presence of chlorine by burning a sample of the material in a high temperature propane flame and observe the visible emission spectra. Chrlorine produces a bright green light when burned, and so will be very obvious when you're testing your material.

First, turn on the ventilation on the Sparkle Forge. The switch for this is under the sign that says "For Non-Laser Fires Only", and above the non-laser fire extinguisher. Then, light the propane torch and set it to rest upright on a stable surface. Taking the pliar, hold the piece of copper in the blue part of the flame to heat it. As the copper begins to heat sufficiently it'll cause the flame to turn an orange color. A consistent orange color means that the copper has no residue material on its surface and so is clean enough to use as a test. If you observe non-orange flames when you burn the copper you may need to clean in further, either by waiting for the excess material to burn off, or by scrubbing the surface of the copper when it has cooled.

Once the copper is burning, take the hot copper and melt a sample of the new material onto it. For example if you were testing a new form of plastic you can roll the hot copper rod on the material, melting some of it onto the copper rod's surface.

With this done, place the copper rod back into the blue part of the flame. Observe the colors of the emission spectra from the new material burning. If you observe a bright green color, then the material contains chlorine and thus *must not* be burned further. Ventilate your surrounding area to avoid breathing it in. If you observe no green color as you burn your material sample, then the material is likely safe to use with the laser cutter.

Here is a video example by Zach in NYCResistor with a known good and known bad material: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0_4NLmeSTI

== BANNED MATERIALS (NEVER USE THESE) ==

These materials '''must not be used in the laser cutter'''.

{|border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#ccc" | Bad materials
|-
! Material
! Notes
|-
| PVC || Contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.
|-
| Vinyl || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.
|-
| PVC Foams || Most contains chlorine. Will produce hydrogen chloride gas when used which is extremely toxic and also damages the laser optics.
|-
| Foam Core || Usually made with PVC which is harmful as listed above.
|-
| Styrofoam || Can cause flash fires
|-
| Polycarbonate or PETG || Does not cut. TAP plastics sells both this and acrylic. '''Be sure to read your labels when purchasing material'''. Lexan is the trade name for Polycarbonate, while Plexiglass is the trade name for acrylic.
|-
| ABS || Gives off hydrogen cyanide which can kill you and also may damage the laser optics.
|-
| Fiberglass || Contains complex epoxies which will cause fires, chlorine, and cyanide. Also contains glass which will not cut.
|-
| Metals || Cannot be etched by this type of laser. Also is harmful as the reflective surface may cause the laser to be reflected back up to the head, damaging it. If someone claims to be etching metal using this type of laser then they are etching a metal with a plastic coating, anodized surface, or some other etchable surface on top.

|}

== Known good materials ==

These materials are known to be ok for use with the laser cutter. The speed and power of the laser cutter will need to be set appropriately for the material and thickness in use. Below is a table showing the suggested settings when cutting or etching them.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
|-
! colspan="10" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Good Materials
|-
! rowspan="2" | Material
! colspan="3" | Engraving
! colspan="3" | Cutting
! colspan="2" | Scoring
! rowspan="1" | Notes
|-
! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! DPI !! Speed (mm/s) !! Power !! Kerf Width !! Speed !! Power ||
|-
|-

|-
| Acrylic (1mm) || 400 || 5 || || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || || The plastic has a tendency to stick back onto itself a little after cutting because it's so thin, so you may have to pop your pieces out

|-
| Acrylic (2mm) || 400 || 5 || || 30 || 20 || 0.15mm || || ||

|-
| Acrylic (3mm) || 400 || 5 || || 20 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Power setting 4 and 5 have little visible difference except some minor lightening at the beginnings of cuts at power 4. Power 3.5 produces very light engraving, almost non-existent, with no engraving at the beginnings of cuts. Above power 5, little difference is visible, but powdery soot becomes more prevalent. Power 5 seems to be the best setting to produce frosted effects.

|-
| Acrylic (6.35mm) || 400 || 5 || || 8 || 55 || 0.15mm || || ||

|-
| Acrylic (12.5mm) || 400 || 5 || || 3 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm

|-
| Acrylic (18mm) || 400 || 5 || || 6 || 55 || 0.15mm || || || Focal length is 4mm; cuts require three passes, don't move piece between passes

|-
| Balsawood (3.2mm) || 400 || 5 || || 50 || 10 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.

|-
| Balsawood (1.6mm) || 400 || 5 || || 50 || 7 || || || || Engraving balsa produces little differences in power above 5, and below 3.5 or so, there's no engraving at all.

|-
| Basswood (1.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || || 50 || 15 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.

|-
| Basswood (6.5mm) || 400 || 5-20 || || 20 || 55 || || || || Engraving above power 20 seems to produce no difference in color, only depth, see reference piece in toolbox.

|-
| Birch (0.9mm) || 400 || 5-15 || || 40 || 20 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.

|-
| Birch (4.8mm) || 400 || 5-15 || || 35 || 55 || || || || Engraving is very finicky; 4 is the absolute lowest the machine will engrave at, 15 is high enough to cause serious charring on birch. The 5-15 range is best. See the test engraving for what the 5, 10, and 15 settings produce.

|-
| Birch (1/4 inch plywood from Discount Builders Supply) || || || || 15 || 55 || || || || The actual thickness of this stuff varies a lot throughout the sheet, plus there are knots in the wood that are harder to cut through. These settings should work though.

|-
| Birch (1/2 in) || || || || 5 || 55 || 0.2mm || || ||

|-
| Cardboard (4mm) || || || || 50 || 15 || || 50 || 5 || Minimum line separation at 50/15 ~ 1/2mm

|-
| Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated) || || || || 50 || 40 || || || || [[Image:IMG 20161017 232022.jpg|thumb|center|upright|alt=Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)|Cardboard (6.5mm, double corrugated)]]

|-
| Cardstock (white, 80lb) || || || || 140 || 6 || || 140 || 4 || The higher speed reduces the amount of browning on the edges.

|-
| Chipboard (~6mm) || || || || 30 || 25 || || || ||

|-
| Corrugated Plastic (white, 3.7mm) || || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 5 ||

|-
| Corrugated Plastic (yellow, 4.1mm) || || || || 10 || 15 || || 50 || 7 ||

|-
| Delrin (nominal 3/8", actual 9.6mm) || || || || 5 || 50 || || || ||

|-
| Denim || 200 || 4 || || 50 || 7 || || || || engraving numbers might produce very thin fabric, might fall apart in the wash

|-
| Paper (printer paper) || || || || 55 || 5 || || || ||

|-
| Plywood w/ reddish tinge (2.6mm) || || || || 35 || 30 || || || ||

|-
| Plywood (3mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 500-2000 || 35 || 50 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving

|-
| Plywood (1/8 inch, square foot for $2.99 from Discount Builders Supply) || || || || 50 || 55 || || || ||

|-
| Plywood (5.6mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 500-2000 || 15 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving

|-
| Plywood (9.5mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 500-2000 || 7 || 55 || || || || see reference in toolbox for engraving

|-
| Plywood (12mm) || 400 || 5-55 || 500-2000 || 5 || 55 || || || || requires overcutting beginning/end; see reference in toolbox for engraving

|-
| Polypropylene (0.5mm) || || || || 50 || 10 || || || ||

|-
| Redwood (20mm) || 100-400 || 55 || || 3 || 55 || || || || 5mm/s gets you almost there, so you could probably go over it a second time and it would work instead. Or if you sand it down a bit, that would probably work. I've only tried engraving on max power. You won't get a consistent depth, and it will vary depending on the grain of the wood. Looks col, but just be aware.

|-
| Red Oak (0.25 inch) || 400 || 23 || || 12 || 55 || || || || Engraving power 23 gives a dark engrave on a .5-1 mm line thickness. 12-18 gave a lighter engrave. When cutting a knot in the wood, you'll have to use a lower speed, 9-10 will probably work. This wood was high quality scroll wood with almost no knots.

|-
| 1000D Cordura Nylon || || || || 100 || 20 || || || || crisp heat sealed edges

|-
| HDPE (0.8mm) || || || || 20 || 30 || || || || creates a beveled edge and a slight under-hanging lip

|-
| Transparency Sheets || || || || 400 || 6 || || || || Only chlorine and speed/power tested a mystery brand from Switzerland that Henner bought; other brands may require tests again

|}

The [[Laser Gallery]] contains some past projects and cutting tests.

== Sourcing Material ==

In general, you can get stuff form Amazon, but you have to wait for shipping.

For plastics: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/TAP+Plastics/@37.7711648,-122.4207603,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e27351bb079:0x7e3610d7dc178b10!8m2!3d37.7711648!4d-122.4185663 Tap Plastics] is nearby Noisebridge, but is expensive, [http://eplastics.com eplastics] is cheaper but you need to wait for shipping, and [https://www.google.com/maps/place/Mr.+Plastics/@37.7091519,-122.1546962,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f8fe7938349a3:0xafcb2526326faccd!8m2!3d37.7091519!4d-122.1525022 Mr. Plastics] is cheapest but is in San Leandro.

For woods: [http://www.google.com/maps/place/Discount+Builders+Supply/@37.7704879,-122.4191311,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x3c0d6c6e25a89652?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV87WU-JzOAhUI6WMKHSPABOUQ_BIIeTAK Discount Builder Supply] is nearby.

== Troubleshooting ==

=== Help! All the menu options turned to gibberish! ===
The RDWorks software can be buggy. Go to the top menu, the right-most or or 2nd-right-most tab will have a Language option. Select English.
When that happens, the bed size settings might also have changed. Double check Config -> Document Settings (?). The proper settings are 1300mm × 900mm.
(TODO: need to double check the exact menu labels, doing this from memory at the moment)

Stupid Hackathon

2015-05-10T06:35:18Z

Rfong: /* Sunday, May 10th */

''Wiki-editing friends: Besides the event organizers..., participants, volunteers, and others may want to post on the event Talk discussion page with suggestions and opinions on how the event may be improved. Thanks.''

The 1st Perennial San Francisco '''Stupid Stuff No One Needs & Terrible Ideas Hackathon''' will run
* 2pm, May 9th to 5pm, May 10th, 2015
* At Noisebridge, Mozilla SF, and Sudo Room.

== Important Info ==
Noisebridge will be open for the whole hackathon. The other two locations will be open 2pm-9pm on Saturday, and 9am-2pm on Sunday. You get a special prize for visiting all three locations and maybe even for producing the stupidest stuff.

=== Presentations ===

Final presentations will be held from 3-5pm Sunday at the Roxie Theater on 16th Street. All ‘teams’ that have ‘hacks’ to present should alert the organizers no later than 2pm on Sunday. (We’ll tell you how to do that Saturday.)

=== Other Important Miscellany ===

* Harassment of any kind is unacceptable, and will result in immediate ejection from the event. (“Be Excellent to each other.”)
* There will likely be a lot of us. Useful equipment like power cords will run dry. So please do what you can to provide for your needs and ensure you remain a happy hacker. [See also]
* IN FACT, if you can slap your email address on power cords (...etc) and bring them in for others to use, that would be even more excellent, and people will figuratively hug you for that.
* All three of the spaces hosting this hackathon are generously volunteering their resources for this event. Please make extra certain to clean up after your hacks, respect their codes of conduct, and donate $$$ as you can: For Noisebridge, Sudo Room, Mozilla
* ABSURDITY OVER NEGATIVITY. <3

== Volunteer! ==

The hackathon needs more people to help make this goes smoothly and still be fun. Helping out should ITSELF be fun, so please join the party.

Things you can do to help the hackathon:
* Welcoming people to Noisebridge, and showing them the lay of the land.
* Selling T-shirts so that people will not be naked on top (and earning major street-cred + $$$ for keeping the hackspace afloat.)
* Doing the standard thang of "making sure people are ok".
* ???

The schedule below has slots for times, and slots for people below the times. Please sign up!

=== Saturday, May 9th ===
* '''2pm - 4pm'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]] tdfischer@hackerbots.net
** [[User:lol|Olivier]] olivier.laleu@gmail.com
**
* '''4pm - 6pm'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]] tdfischer@hackerbots.net
** [[User:lol|Olivier]] olivier.laleu@gmail.com
**
* '''6pm - 8pm'''
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
** Steve Young
**
**
* '''8pm - 10pm'''
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
** [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]] tdfischer@hackerbots.net
** Steve Young
**
* '''10pm - 12am'''
** [http://web.mit.edu/joshuah/www/ Josh H] (joshuah@alum.mit.edu, 860-424-2108)
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
**
**

=== Sunday, May 10th ===
* '''12am - 2am'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
**
**
* '''2am - 4am'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
**
* '''4am - 6am'''
** Steve Young
** Josh H (joshuah@alum.mit.edu, 860-424-2108)
**
* '''6am - 8am'''
** Steve Young
** Josh H (joshuah@alum.mit.edu, 860-424-2108)
**
**
* '''8am - 10am'''
** Josh H (joshuah@alum.mit.edu, 860-424-2108)
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
**
**
**
* '''10am - 12pm'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** [[User:lol|Olivier]] olivier.laleu@gmail.com
** rfong(rachefo@gmail.com)
**
* '''12pm - 2pm'''
** J (tman66@gmail.com 818-523-4470)
**
**
**
* '''2pm - 4pm'''
** [[User:lol|Olivier]] olivier.laleu@gmail.com
**
**
**

== Links ==
''Caveat emptor: Link titles & descriptions might be on the rough 'n raw side for some...''
* [https://stupidhackathon.github.io/ Site]
* [https://www.facebook.com/events/1567576990198712/ Facebook]
* [https://www.eventbrite.com/e/stupid-shit-no-one-needs-terrible-ideas-hackathon-sf-tickets-16452381516 Eventbrite]

Stupid Hackathon

2015-05-10T06:34:15Z

Rfong: /* Sunday, May 10th */

''Wiki-editing friends: Besides the event organizers..., participants, volunteers, and others may want to post on the event Talk discussion page with suggestions and opinions on how the event may be improved. Thanks.''

The 1st Perennial San Francisco '''Stupid Stuff No One Needs & Terrible Ideas Hackathon''' will run
* 2pm, May 9th to 5pm, May 10th, 2015
* At Noisebridge, Mozilla SF, and Sudo Room.

== Important Info ==
Noisebridge will be open for the whole hackathon. The other two locations will be open 2pm-9pm on Saturday, and 9am-2pm on Sunday. You get a special prize for visiting all three locations and maybe even for producing the stupidest stuff.

=== Presentations ===

Final presentations will be held from 3-5pm Sunday at the Roxie Theater on 16th Street. All ‘teams’ that have ‘hacks’ to present should alert the organizers no later than 2pm on Sunday. (We’ll tell you how to do that Saturday.)

=== Other Important Miscellany ===

* Harassment of any kind is unacceptable, and will result in immediate ejection from the event. (“Be Excellent to each other.”)
* There will likely be a lot of us. Useful equipment like power cords will run dry. So please do what you can to provide for your needs and ensure you remain a happy hacker. [See also]
* IN FACT, if you can slap your email address on power cords (...etc) and bring them in for others to use, that would be even more excellent, and people will figuratively hug you for that.
* All three of the spaces hosting this hackathon are generously volunteering their resources for this event. Please make extra certain to clean up after your hacks, respect their codes of conduct, and donate $$$ as you can: For Noisebridge, Sudo Room, Mozilla
* ABSURDITY OVER NEGATIVITY. <3

== Volunteer! ==

The hackathon needs more people to help make this goes smoothly and still be fun. Helping out should ITSELF be fun, so please join the party.

Things you can do to help the hackathon:
* Welcoming people to Noisebridge, and showing them the lay of the land.
* Selling T-shirts so that people will not be naked on top (and earning major street-cred + $$$ for keeping the hackspace afloat.)
* Doing the standard thang of "making sure people are ok".
* ???

The schedule below has slots for times, and slots for people below the times. Please sign up!

=== Saturday, May 9th ===
* '''2pm - 4pm'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]] tdfischer@hackerbots.net
** [[User:lol|Olivier]] olivier.laleu@gmail.com
**
* '''4pm - 6pm'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]] tdfischer@hackerbots.net
** [[User:lol|Olivier]] olivier.laleu@gmail.com
**
* '''6pm - 8pm'''
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
** Steve Young
**
**
* '''8pm - 10pm'''
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
** [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]] tdfischer@hackerbots.net
** Steve Young
**
* '''10pm - 12am'''
** [http://web.mit.edu/joshuah/www/ Josh H] (joshuah@alum.mit.edu, 860-424-2108)
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
**
**

=== Sunday, May 10th ===
* '''12am - 2am'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
**
**
* '''2am - 4am'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
**
* '''4am - 6am'''
** Steve Young
** Josh H (joshuah@alum.mit.edu, 860-424-2108)
**
* '''6am - 8am'''
** Steve Young
** Josh H (joshuah@alum.mit.edu, 860-424-2108)
**
**
* '''8am - 10am'''
** Josh H (joshuah@alum.mit.edu, 860-424-2108)
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
**
**
**
* '''10am - 12pm'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** [[User:lol|Olivier]] olivier.laleu@gmail.com
**
**
* '''12pm - 2pm'''
** J (tman66@gmail.com 818-523-4470)
**
**
**
* '''2pm - 4pm'''
** [[User:lol|Olivier]] olivier.laleu@gmail.com
**
**
**

== Links ==
''Caveat emptor: Link titles & descriptions might be on the rough 'n raw side for some...''
* [https://stupidhackathon.github.io/ Site]
* [https://www.facebook.com/events/1567576990198712/ Facebook]
* [https://www.eventbrite.com/e/stupid-shit-no-one-needs-terrible-ideas-hackathon-sf-tickets-16452381516 Eventbrite]

Stupid Hackathon

2015-05-09T01:10:57Z

Rfong: /* Sunday, May 10th */

''Wiki-editing friends: Besides the event organizers..., participants, volunteers, and others may want to post on the event Talk discussion page with suggestions and opinions on how the event may be improved. Thanks.''

The 1st Perennial San Francisco '''Stupid Stuff No One Needs & Terrible Ideas Hackathon''' will run
* 2pm, May 9th to 5pm, May 10th, 2015
* At Noisebridge, Mozilla SF, and Sudo Room.

== Important Info ==
Noisebridge will be open for the whole hackathon. The other two locations will be open 2pm-9pm on Saturday, and 9am-2pm on Sunday. You get a special prize for visiting all three locations and maybe even for producing the stupidest stuff.

=== Presentations ===

Final presentations will be held from 3-5pm Sunday at the Roxie Theater on 16th Street. All ‘teams’ that have ‘hacks’ to present should alert the organizers no later than 2pm on Sunday. (We’ll tell you how to do that Saturday.)

=== Other Important Miscellany ===

* Harassment of any kind is unacceptable, and will result in immediate ejection from the event. (“Be Excellent to each other.”)
* There will likely be a lot of us. Useful equipment like power cords will run dry. So please do what you can to provide for your needs and ensure you remain a happy hacker. [See also]
* IN FACT, if you can slap your email address on power cords (...etc) and bring them in for others to use, that would be even more excellent, and people will figuratively hug you for that.
* All three of the spaces hosting this hackathon are generously volunteering their resources for this event. Please make extra certain to clean up after your hacks, respect their codes of conduct, and donate $$$ as you can: For Noisebridge, Sudo Room, Mozilla
* ABSURDITY OVER NEGATIVITY. <3

== Volunteer! ==

The hackathon needs more people to help make this goes smoothly and still be fun. Helping out should ITSELF be fun, so please join the party.

Things you can do to help the hackathon:
* Welcoming people to Noisebridge, and showing them the lay of the land.
* Selling T-shirts so that people will not be naked on top (and earning major street-cred + $$$ for keeping the hackspace afloat.)
* Doing the standard thang of "making sure people are ok".
* ???

The schedule below has slots for times, and slots for people below the times. Please sign up!

=== Saturday, May 9th ===
* '''2pm - 4pm'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]] tdfischer@hackerbots.net
** [[User:lol|Olivier]] olivier.laleu@gmail.com
**
* '''4pm - 6pm'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]] tdfischer@hackerbots.net
** [[User:lol|Olivier]] olivier.laleu@gmail.com
**
**
* '''6pm - 8pm'''
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
** Steve Young (''but'' '''not''' ''our 49er famous ex-quarterback!'')
**
**
* '''8pm - 10pm'''
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
** [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]] tdfischer@hackerbots.net
** Steve Young
**
**
* '''10pm - 12am'''
** Josh H (joshuah@alum.mit.edu, 860-424-2108)
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
**
**

=== Sunday, May 10th ===
* '''12am - 2am'''
** Josh H (joshuah@alum.mit.edu, 860-424-2108)
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
* '''2am - 4am'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
**
* '''4am - 6am'''
** Steve Young
** AkroniumEddie (obviously my pseudonym)

* '''6am - 8am'''
** Steve Young
** AkroniumEddie
**
* '''8am - 10am'''
**
**
**
**
* '''10am - 12pm'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** [[User:lol|Olivier]] olivier.laleu@gmail.com
**
**
* '''12pm - 2pm'''
** J (tman66@gmail.com 818-523-4470)
**
**
**
* '''2pm - 4pm'''
** [[User:lol|Olivier]] olivier.laleu@gmail.com
** AkroniumEddie
**
**

== Links ==
''Caveat emptor: Link titles & descriptions might be on the rough 'n raw side for some...''
* [https://stupidhackathon.github.io/ Site]
* [https://www.facebook.com/events/1567576990198712/ Facebook]
* [https://www.eventbrite.com/e/stupid-shit-no-one-needs-terrible-ideas-hackathon-sf-tickets-16452381516 Eventbrite]

Stupid Hackathon

2015-05-07T00:57:01Z

Rfong:

The 1st Perennial San Francisco '''Stupid Shit No One Needs & Terrible Ideas Hackathon''' ("Stupid Hackathon" for short) will run
* 2pm, May 9th to 5pm, May 10th, 2015
* At Noisebridge (and possibly other friendly sites)

== Volunteer! ==

The hackathon needs people to help make this thing go smoothly and be fun. Helping out should ITSELF be fun, so please join the party.

Things you can do to help the hackathon:
* Welcoming people to Noisebridge, and showing them the lay of the land.
* Selling t-shirts so that people will not be naked.
* Doing the standard "making sure people are ok" thing.
* ???

The below schedule has slots for times and slots for people below the times. Please sign up!

=== Saturday, May 9th ===
* '''2pm - 4pm'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]] tdfischer@hackerbots.net
**
**
* '''4pm - 6pm'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
** [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]] tdfischer@hackerbots.net
**
**
**
* '''6pm - 8pm'''
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
**
**
**
* '''8pm - 10pm'''
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
** [[User:Tdfischer|Torrie]] tdfischer@hackerbots.net
**
**
**
* '''10pm - 12am'''
** Josh H (joshuah@alum.mit.edu, 860-424-2108)
** rfong (rachefo@gmail.com)
**
**

=== Sunday, May 10th ===
* '''12am - 2am'''
** Josh H (joshuah@alum.mit.edu, 860-424-2108)
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
**
* '''2am - 4am'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
**
* '''4am - 6am'''
**
**
* '''6am - 8am'''
**
**
**
* '''8am - 10am'''
**
**
**
**
* '''10am - 12pm'''
** Logan W (logan.williams@alum.mit.edu, 857-756-8623)
**
**
**
* '''12pm - 2pm'''
**
**
**
**
* '''2pm - 4pm'''
**
**
**
**

== Links ==
* [https://stupidhackathon.github.io/ Site]
* [https://www.facebook.com/events/1567576990198712/ Facebook]
* [https://www.eventbrite.com/e/stupid-shit-no-one-needs-terrible-ideas-hackathon-sf-tickets-16452381516 Eventbrite]