Noisebridge - User contributions [en]

Cleaning and restoring vintage cameras

2010-02-10T16:35:00Z

Joachimp:

=='''Cleaning and Restoring the Outside of the Camera'''==

==General external body cleaning==
I use Windex on a soft bristled toothbrush. NEVER allow any lens cleaner or glass cleaner containing ammonia (like Windex) to come into contact with the lens. This especially applies to lens coatings made prior to the mid 70s and to naturally bloomed lenses. The coatings back then were soft and were not fused to the glass (they hadn't yet learned to bake them) and the ammonia may eat up your lens coating.

==Leatherette==
Soft toothbrush and Windex, followed by shoe polish (followed by a shine sponge -- or Scuff Guard -- IF the original finish was supposed to be high gloss). You can use a leather protectant, if you wish, but NOT Armorall. Armorall makes the surface slippery and you don't want to drop your camera.

==Leather==
A mild soapy water solution applied with a soft-bristled toothbrush, followed by saddle soap follwed by a silicone-based leather protectant, followed by shoe cream. Don't let the leather get too wet and soak through or the glue or shellac that attaches it to the camera may let go. If the leather is snagged (little bits of leather sticking up), I'll attempt to stick the snags back down with a 50/50 solution of bookbinder's glue and water, sparingly applied with a toothpick.

==For leather and leatherette that is scuffed==
I use a slightly thinned solution of black leather dye, followed by a sealant. If it has a few really small bits missing, a black lacquer pen can be used to fill in the missing bits. If necessary, layers are built up until it looks natural.

==For leather and leatherette that are beyond salvage or missing==
Replacement leather, composite leather, and leatherette can be purchased at [http://www.cameraleather.com/ CameraLeather.com] This comes in self-sticking sheets and can be bought in uncut sheets, or precut to fit your camera.

==Bellows==
If you have pinholes, replacement is your best option. It is the ONLY permanent one. Bellows can be patched, but the patch will always be weak and will eventually start leaking light again. The best patching material I know of is bookbinder's glue mixed with lampblack. If you can't find bookbinder's glue, mix one drop of liquid soap with a bottlecap of Elmer's glue and add the lampblack. The dish soap makes the glue more flexible and so it will last a little longer. Black acrylic paint is also reported to work well, and remain flexible.

==Aluminum==
Never-Dull metal polish. If the aluminum has oxidation stains, Alumabrite (sold in marine hardware stores) will sometimes get them out (keep it well away from the glass). If not, you'll have to resort to #0000 steel wool.

==Missing lettering==
[http://www.micro-tools.com/ Micro Tools] sells paint pens that are used to fill in missing paint from recessed lettering.

==Brass==
Never-dull metal polish. A chemical polish like Tarn-X can be used for especially stubborn stains on brass. Keep all chemical polishes away from the glass (most contain acids that can etch glass or eat away the balsam cements used in mounting them).

==Chrome or nickle plating==
If an automotive chrome polish won't get it out, the only things you can do are learn to live with it, remove the chrome (and go to a brass finish) or get the part re-chromed. If you opt to go for the brass finish, a coat of clear lacquer will help you avoid having to polish the brass every two weeks or so.

==Steel==
This is mostly for Ciroflex cameras. Naval Jelly will remove rust. If the rust has pitted the metal, you'll have to fill the pits. Be aware that you'll need to repaint or the steel will rust again.

==Paint chips and repainting==
The aforementioned paint pens from Micro Tools will sometimes work. [http://www.micro-tools.com/ Micro Tools.] Most times you will still be able to see a very clear delineation between new and old paint though. If so, you'll have to strip all the paint off, prime, and repaint. Micro Tools also sells a "camera paint" that matches most original finishes. As a side note, Krylon Ultra Flat Black spray paint is good for replacing the flat black paint on the inside of the camera. Spray some into a can and apply it with a brush. An alternative is a flat black paint called "stove paint" that is found in most hardware stores. If you are going to completely repaint your camera, and if you have used an enamel paint, you'll want to bake it afterward, to harden the paint. No, you don't put your camera in the oven. When the paint is dry, you put it in a box with a 100-watt lightbulb for about an hour.

==Lenses==
There are a variety of methods for cleaning lenses. This is the one I use, because I think it poses the least risk of scratching the lens. In the photography forum, I've been seeing some threads on lens cleaning that recommend lens tissues. This is a cheap and convenient way to do it, but it is also risky. Tissues trap dust and grit between lens and tissue and it is all too easy to scratch the lenses. Some lens tissues, meant for eyeglasses, are actually mildly abrasive and can scratch coated lenses with no help from trapped grit. Microfiber lens cloths are safer, but still not 100% safe. So how do you do it?

Well, first you go over it with a blower and lens brush, to remove as much grit as possible.

Next you are going to need some solvents. Commonly used solvents used in camera restoration (and lens cleaning) are:
*Denatured alcohol, used to remove tar (from cigarettes, or pine pollen) and detriorated light seal material (sometimes found stuck to rear lens elements). Do NOT use rubbing alcohol; it will work, but it is not a benign solvent and it can attack some balsam cements used to glue lens elements together.
*Naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid), used to remove grease and oils (naphtha is REALLY good for fingerprints).
*Distilled water, used to remove everything else.

'''These are all benign and won't harm your camera if you just keep them out of the electronics and don't actually SOAK the camera in them.'''

*One other special solvent: a 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia, used to kill and remove lens fungus.

Then you get a big box of Q-tip cotton swabs. Dampen a swab with your solvent of choice, and start in the center of the lens, working outward. A little solvent goes a long way, so you want your swab to be damp, not wet. Use gentle pressure, not much more than the weight of the Q-tip. Don't scrub, but let the solvent do the work. Twist the swab as you go, so that a fresh surface is kept in contact with the lens and any grit is lifted away from the glass, not rubbed against it. You'll go through quite a few Q-tips. I generally go over my lenses two or three times with each solvent.

When you use the naphtha, you may notice a haze forming on your lens as it dries. Don't panic; this is a GOOD thing. The haze is oil and grease that has been hydrolyzed (made water soluble). The naphtha itself leaves no residue. When you go over it with the distilled water, it will remove the haze.

==Fungus==
Yes, there really is a type of fungus that can grow on lens coatings. The fungus secretes an acid that can, in time, etch the underlying glass. If it hasn't etched the glass, fungus and mildew can be killed and removed with a 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia. There are several methods of cleaning up lens fungus, but this one is the best I know of for killing the spores, so it doesn't come back. At the same time, you need to give the camera a very thorough overall cleaning and replace the light seals, so you get the spores hiding elsewhere in the camera.

==Mildew==
Mildew in a leather camera case cannot be killed short of soaking it in bleach (which would damage the case). You can knock it back in any of several ways, but it always comes back. It is best to just get a new case. Mildew can sometimes be found in bellows too. Replacement is your best option. "New old stock" Kodak and Zeiss bellows occasionally come up for auction on ebay, and these will fit most cameras. For those who REALLY don't want to do this, or who can't afford it, you can try "painting" the bellows (inside and out) in the aforementioned 50/50 solution of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia. This is not really a good idea (the glue may come loose that attaches the inner liner), but you have little to lose. I've also heard some people say that Listerine mouthwash will kill it, and they say they've had good results, but I haven't tried this one yet and can't vouch for it.

==Viewfinder glass==
These are not high precision optics, but are just plain plate glass. Windex or other commercial glass cleaner on a Q-tip will do fine.

A note of '''warning''' -- If you are cleaning the focusing screen on a TLR or a view camera, be aware that the framing guidelines on some cameras will wash off! An extra fine point Sharpie marker will put them back if you haven't washed them totally away.

Now a word about the viewfinders on box cameras and those little pyramidal viewfinders on folding cameras: Again, these are not precision optics. Basically, they just show you where the camera is pointed. An old watchmaker's trick, used for brightening and removing scuffs from watch crystals, is to rub it with a little toothpaste on your finger. This will remove crud from a viewfinder that you didn't even know was there. It works especially well for brightening the plastic viewfinder lenses on box cameras. It will work on glass too, but it takes longer. Do NOT try this on the taking lens though, because that IS a precision lens, and toothpaste is abrasive.

==Now for inside the camera==

First blow the loose crud out with a can of compressed air or a blower. DON'T use the kind of compressed air that comes in a spray can from the photo shop. I am talking about the kind you refill yourself with an air pump. Don't let the nozzle get too close to any semisilvered mirrors (what you would find in a rangefinder camera) or you risk blowing the silvering off. This should get rid of most of the loose crud. For bits of deteriorated tar-like light seal material, a Q-tip cotton swab dampened with denatured alcohol (found in hardware stores) will remove them. Use naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid) to remove hardened lubricant and the crud stuck in it. If you are going to relubricate, use a synthetic gun oil or sewing machine oil and be very sparing with it. Oil tends to spread to other parts (where you don't want it to go) and that is why you are having to clean it up. A very little goes a long way in a camera and too much can cause far more problems than too little. You should use no more than you can lift on the point of a needle, and only apply it to friction surfaces. The only places you might use more is on the focusing rod of some TLRs (the Ciroflex, for example) and on the focusing helical of an SLR (which uses lithium or silicone grease, is in the lens, and doesn't really belong here in an article on cleaning and lubing cameras)

==Focusing screens==
'''the one that is the most fraught with peril'''
Focusing screens in SLRs are plastic Fresnel lenses more often than not. They are pretty delicate and are easily scratched (the plastic is not particularly hard). DON'T use anything that is harder than the plastic screen to clean them. This includes brushes with plastic bristles. DON'T use anything that will rub grit against the screen (like a cloth or lens paper). I use an artist's brush I found at an art supply store. The handle is made of plastic. I heated it with a butane lighter and bent the handle at a right angle, near the tip, so I can get at the focusing screen with it better. First I gently brush at it for a while (dry) to loosen and remove any grit. Then I dampen the brush with distilled water (just damp, NOT wet) and go over it several times. Just gently brush at it, don't scrub, cleaning your brush every so often, until it is clean.

==Mirrors==
There are several kinds. (A) Semisilvered mirrors: For semisilvered mirrors (ones you can see through, like in a rangefinder), the only thing that should ever touch them is a puff of air. If you touch them, the silvering WILL come off. It is very delicate and will stick to your fingers better than it will to the glass. (B) Front silvered mirrors: The mirrors in some cameras are front silvered (the silvering is on the front of the glass instead of the back). If you don't know, always assume the mirror is front silvered. Although these are not as fragile as the semisilvered mirrors, you REALLY don't want to scrub at them, because the silvering is a lot softer than the glass and can be easily damaged. I use Q-tips and a solvent (after blowing them with compressed air) and I let the solvent do the work, with little more pressure than the weight of the swab. I twist the swab as I go, in order to lift grit away from the mirror and keep a clean surface against the glass (I go through a LOT of swabs). The solvents I use are distilled water (for dust and dirt) and denatured alcohol or naphtha (for removing bits of crumbled light seal material). (C) Reverse silvered mirrors: Reverse silvered mirrors have the silvering on the back of the glass. These can be cleaned in the same way that you clean a lens.

==Shutter Blades==
There are three methods.
*The best is to disassemble the shutter and clean every part individually, then reassemble. However, that is well beyond the skill level of most people.
*The next best method is to remove just the glass and then submerge it in a solvent in a vibrator cleaner. It is important to remove the glass first because vibrating cleaners are known to cause micro-fractures of the surface of the glass. Most people don't have access to a vibrating cleaner though and so they won't be able to use this method either.
*Use a lens spanner wrench to remove the rear lens element, so you can see the aperture iris and the shutter blades. Set the aperture on it's widest setting and clean the back of the blades with a cotton swab dampened with naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid). Work the shutter a few times, get a new swab, and clean it again. Alternate between moist swabs and dry swabs, mopping up the lighter fluid (and dissolved oil) with the dry swabs. Keep doing this until there is no hint of oil or grease left on the blades. The blades working together will transfer any grease or oil from the front of the blades (that you can't reach) to the backs of others (which you CAN reach), so you should be able to eventually get it all. It takes a while. As long as you're at it, do the aperture blades too. When done, '''DO NOT LUBRICATE THE BLADES!!!!!''' Leaf shutters are designed to run dry (no lubricant). The blades will stick together and the shutter won't work if they are lubricated.

==Electronics==
Circuit board cleaner (sold at Radio Shack) can be used to clean most electronics (bushes and variable resistors, for example). Always remove the battery first. The circuit board cleaner may be non-conductive, but the crud you're cleaning up (and that is suspended in it) probably isn't.

[http://forum.deviantart.com/galleries/photography/818501/ OP]
Scraped from: [http://fallisphoto.deviantart.com/ fallisphoto]

Cleaning-and-restoring-vintage-cameras

2010-02-10T16:33:07Z

Joachimp: moved Cleaning-and-restoring-vintage-cameras to Cleaning and restoring vintage cameras: I no like -

#REDIRECT [[Cleaning and restoring vintage cameras]]

Cleaning and restoring vintage cameras

2010-02-10T16:33:07Z

Joachimp: moved Cleaning-and-restoring-vintage-cameras to Cleaning and restoring vintage cameras: I no like -

===Cleaning and Restoring Vintage Cameras===
Scraped from: [http://fallisphoto.deviantart.com/ fallisphoto]

=='''Cleaning and Restoring the Outside of the Camera'''==

==General external body cleaning==
I use Windex on a soft bristled toothbrush. NEVER allow any lens cleaner or glass cleaner containing ammonia (like Windex) to come into contact with the lens. This especially applies to lens coatings made prior to the mid 70s and to naturally bloomed lenses. The coatings back then were soft and were not fused to the glass (they hadn't yet learned to bake them) and the ammonia may eat up your lens coating.

==Leatherette==
Soft toothbrush and Windex, followed by shoe polish (followed by a shine sponge -- or Scuff Guard -- IF the original finish was supposed to be high gloss). You can use a leather protectant, if you wish, but NOT Armorall. Armorall makes the surface slippery and you don't want to drop your camera.

==Leather==
A mild soapy water solution applied with a soft-bristled toothbrush, followed by saddle soap follwed by a silicone-based leather protectant, followed by shoe cream. Don't let the leather get too wet and soak through or the glue or shellac that attaches it to the camera may let go. If the leather is snagged (little bits of leather sticking up), I'll attempt to stick the snags back down with a 50/50 solution of bookbinder's glue and water, sparingly applied with a toothpick.

==For leather and leatherette that is scuffed==
I use a slightly thinned solution of black leather dye, followed by a sealant. If it has a few really small bits missing, a black lacquer pen can be used to fill in the missing bits. If necessary, layers are built up until it looks natural.

==For leather and leatherette that are beyond salvage or missing==
Replacement leather, composite leather, and leatherette can be purchased at [http://www.cameraleather.com/ CameraLeather.com] This comes in self-sticking sheets and can be bought in uncut sheets, or precut to fit your camera.

==Bellows==
If you have pinholes, replacement is your best option. It is the ONLY permanent one. Bellows can be patched, but the patch will always be weak and will eventually start leaking light again. The best patching material I know of is bookbinder's glue mixed with lampblack. If you can't find bookbinder's glue, mix one drop of liquid soap with a bottlecap of Elmer's glue and add the lampblack. The dish soap makes the glue more flexible and so it will last a little longer. Black acrylic paint is also reported to work well, and remain flexible.

==Aluminum==
Never-Dull metal polish. If the aluminum has oxidation stains, Alumabrite (sold in marine hardware stores) will sometimes get them out (keep it well away from the glass). If not, you'll have to resort to #0000 steel wool.

==Missing lettering==
[http://www.micro-tools.com/ Micro Tools] sells paint pens that are used to fill in missing paint from recessed lettering.

==Brass==
Never-dull metal polish. A chemical polish like Tarn-X can be used for especially stubborn stains on brass. Keep all chemical polishes away from the glass (most contain acids that can etch glass or eat away the balsam cements used in mounting them).

==Chrome or nickle plating==
If an automotive chrome polish won't get it out, the only things you can do are learn to live with it, remove the chrome (and go to a brass finish) or get the part re-chromed. If you opt to go for the brass finish, a coat of clear lacquer will help you avoid having to polish the brass every two weeks or so.

==Steel==
This is mostly for Ciroflex cameras. Naval Jelly will remove rust. If the rust has pitted the metal, you'll have to fill the pits. Be aware that you'll need to repaint or the steel will rust again.

==Paint chips and repainting==
The aforementioned paint pens from Micro Tools will sometimes work. [http://www.micro-tools.com/ Micro Tools.] Most times you will still be able to see a very clear delineation between new and old paint though. If so, you'll have to strip all the paint off, prime, and repaint. Micro Tools also sells a "camera paint" that matches most original finishes. As a side note, Krylon Ultra Flat Black spray paint is good for replacing the flat black paint on the inside of the camera. Spray some into a can and apply it with a brush. An alternative is a flat black paint called "stove paint" that is found in most hardware stores. If you are going to completely repaint your camera, and if you have used an enamel paint, you'll want to bake it afterward, to harden the paint. No, you don't put your camera in the oven. When the paint is dry, you put it in a box with a 100-watt lightbulb for about an hour.

==Lenses==
There are a variety of methods for cleaning lenses. This is the one I use, because I think it poses the least risk of scratching the lens. In the photography forum, I've been seeing some threads on lens cleaning that recommend lens tissues. This is a cheap and convenient way to do it, but it is also risky. Tissues trap dust and grit between lens and tissue and it is all too easy to scratch the lenses. Some lens tissues, meant for eyeglasses, are actually mildly abrasive and can scratch coated lenses with no help from trapped grit. Microfiber lens cloths are safer, but still not 100% safe. So how do you do it?

Well, first you go over it with a blower and lens brush, to remove as much grit as possible.

Next you are going to need some solvents. Commonly used solvents used in camera restoration (and lens cleaning) are:
*Denatured alcohol, used to remove tar (from cigarettes, or pine pollen) and detriorated light seal material (sometimes found stuck to rear lens elements). Do NOT use rubbing alcohol; it will work, but it is not a benign solvent and it can attack some balsam cements used to glue lens elements together.
*Naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid), used to remove grease and oils (naphtha is REALLY good for fingerprints).
*Distilled water, used to remove everything else.

'''These are all benign and won't harm your camera if you just keep them out of the electronics and don't actually SOAK the camera in them.'''

*One other special solvent: a 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia, used to kill and remove lens fungus.

Then you get a big box of Q-tip cotton swabs. Dampen a swab with your solvent of choice, and start in the center of the lens, working outward. A little solvent goes a long way, so you want your swab to be damp, not wet. Use gentle pressure, not much more than the weight of the Q-tip. Don't scrub, but let the solvent do the work. Twist the swab as you go, so that a fresh surface is kept in contact with the lens and any grit is lifted away from the glass, not rubbed against it. You'll go through quite a few Q-tips. I generally go over my lenses two or three times with each solvent.

When you use the naphtha, you may notice a haze forming on your lens as it dries. Don't panic; this is a GOOD thing. The haze is oil and grease that has been hydrolyzed (made water soluble). The naphtha itself leaves no residue. When you go over it with the distilled water, it will remove the haze.

==Fungus==
Yes, there really is a type of fungus that can grow on lens coatings. The fungus secretes an acid that can, in time, etch the underlying glass. If it hasn't etched the glass, fungus and mildew can be killed and removed with a 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia. There are several methods of cleaning up lens fungus, but this one is the best I know of for killing the spores, so it doesn't come back. At the same time, you need to give the camera a very thorough overall cleaning and replace the light seals, so you get the spores hiding elsewhere in the camera.

==Mildew==
Mildew in a leather camera case cannot be killed short of soaking it in bleach (which would damage the case). You can knock it back in any of several ways, but it always comes back. It is best to just get a new case. Mildew can sometimes be found in bellows too. Replacement is your best option. "New old stock" Kodak and Zeiss bellows occasionally come up for auction on ebay, and these will fit most cameras. For those who REALLY don't want to do this, or who can't afford it, you can try "painting" the bellows (inside and out) in the aforementioned 50/50 solution of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia. This is not really a good idea (the glue may come loose that attaches the inner liner), but you have little to lose. I've also heard some people say that Listerine mouthwash will kill it, and they say they've had good results, but I haven't tried this one yet and can't vouch for it.

==Viewfinder glass==
These are not high precision optics, but are just plain plate glass. Windex or other commercial glass cleaner on a Q-tip will do fine.

A note of '''warning''' -- If you are cleaning the focusing screen on a TLR or a view camera, be aware that the framing guidelines on some cameras will wash off! An extra fine point Sharpie marker will put them back if you haven't washed them totally away.

Now a word about the viewfinders on box cameras and those little pyramidal viewfinders on folding cameras: Again, these are not precision optics. Basically, they just show you where the camera is pointed. An old watchmaker's trick, used for brightening and removing scuffs from watch crystals, is to rub it with a little toothpaste on your finger. This will remove crud from a viewfinder that you didn't even know was there. It works especially well for brightening the plastic viewfinder lenses on box cameras. It will work on glass too, but it takes longer. Do NOT try this on the taking lens though, because that IS a precision lens, and toothpaste is abrasive.

==Now for inside the camera==

First blow the loose crud out with a can of compressed air or a blower. DON'T use the kind of compressed air that comes in a spray can from the photo shop. I am talking about the kind you refill yourself with an air pump. Don't let the nozzle get too close to any semisilvered mirrors (what you would find in a rangefinder camera) or you risk blowing the silvering off. This should get rid of most of the loose crud. For bits of deteriorated tar-like light seal material, a Q-tip cotton swab dampened with denatured alcohol (found in hardware stores) will remove them. Use naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid) to remove hardened lubricant and the crud stuck in it. If you are going to relubricate, use a synthetic gun oil or sewing machine oil and be very sparing with it. Oil tends to spread to other parts (where you don't want it to go) and that is why you are having to clean it up. A very little goes a long way in a camera and too much can cause far more problems than too little. You should use no more than you can lift on the point of a needle, and only apply it to friction surfaces. The only places you might use more is on the focusing rod of some TLRs (the Ciroflex, for example) and on the focusing helical of an SLR (which uses lithium or silicone grease, is in the lens, and doesn't really belong here in an article on cleaning and lubing cameras)

==Focusing screens==
'''the one that is the most fraught with peril'''
Focusing screens in SLRs are plastic Fresnel lenses more often than not. They are pretty delicate and are easily scratched (the plastic is not particularly hard). DON'T use anything that is harder than the plastic screen to clean them. This includes brushes with plastic bristles. DON'T use anything that will rub grit against the screen (like a cloth or lens paper). I use an artist's brush I found at an art supply store. The handle is made of plastic. I heated it with a butane lighter and bent the handle at a right angle, near the tip, so I can get at the focusing screen with it better. First I gently brush at it for a while (dry) to loosen and remove any grit. Then I dampen the brush with distilled water (just damp, NOT wet) and go over it several times. Just gently brush at it, don't scrub, cleaning your brush every so often, until it is clean.

==Mirrors==
There are several kinds. (A) Semisilvered mirrors: For semisilvered mirrors (ones you can see through, like in a rangefinder), the only thing that should ever touch them is a puff of air. If you touch them, the silvering WILL come off. It is very delicate and will stick to your fingers better than it will to the glass. (B) Front silvered mirrors: The mirrors in some cameras are front silvered (the silvering is on the front of the glass instead of the back). If you don't know, always assume the mirror is front silvered. Although these are not as fragile as the semisilvered mirrors, you REALLY don't want to scrub at them, because the silvering is a lot softer than the glass and can be easily damaged. I use Q-tips and a solvent (after blowing them with compressed air) and I let the solvent do the work, with little more pressure than the weight of the swab. I twist the swab as I go, in order to lift grit away from the mirror and keep a clean surface against the glass (I go through a LOT of swabs). The solvents I use are distilled water (for dust and dirt) and denatured alcohol or naphtha (for removing bits of crumbled light seal material). (C) Reverse silvered mirrors: Reverse silvered mirrors have the silvering on the back of the glass. These can be cleaned in the same way that you clean a lens.

==Shutter Blades==
There are three methods.
*The best is to disassemble the shutter and clean every part individually, then reassemble. However, that is well beyond the skill level of most people.
*The next best method is to remove just the glass and then submerge it in a solvent in a vibrator cleaner. It is important to remove the glass first because vibrating cleaners are known to cause micro-fractures of the surface of the glass. Most people don't have access to a vibrating cleaner though and so they won't be able to use this method either.
*Use a lens spanner wrench to remove the rear lens element, so you can see the aperture iris and the shutter blades. Set the aperture on it's widest setting and clean the back of the blades with a cotton swab dampened with naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid). Work the shutter a few times, get a new swab, and clean it again. Alternate between moist swabs and dry swabs, mopping up the lighter fluid (and dissolved oil) with the dry swabs. Keep doing this until there is no hint of oil or grease left on the blades. The blades working together will transfer any grease or oil from the front of the blades (that you can't reach) to the backs of others (which you CAN reach), so you should be able to eventually get it all. It takes a while. As long as you're at it, do the aperture blades too. When done, '''DO NOT LUBRICATE THE BLADES!!!!!''' Leaf shutters are designed to run dry (no lubricant). The blades will stick together and the shutter won't work if they are lubricated.

==Electronics==
Circuit board cleaner (sold at Radio Shack) can be used to clean most electronics (bushes and variable resistors, for example). Always remove the battery first. The circuit board cleaner may be non-conductive, but the crud you're cleaning up (and that is suspended in it) probably isn't.

[http://forum.deviantart.com/galleries/photography/818501/ OP]

Cleaning and restoring vintage cameras

2010-02-10T16:31:58Z

Joachimp: init

People

2010-01-21T11:40:01Z

Joachimp:

{{Membership}}[[Category:Members]]
The marshmallowy good enjoyables associated with Noisebridge:

Note: This is not a membership list, and anyone may add themselves to it. Its names are maintained solely by those who have added them to it.

(add yourself in alphabetical order by first name)

[[User:SFSlim|Aaron Muszalski]]

[[AdamJODonnell|Adam J. O'Donnell]]

[[User:elgreengeeto|Adam Skory]]

[[User:adamwaters|Adam Waters]]

[[User:awright|Adam J. Wright]]

[[User:OpenBuddha|Al Billings]]

[[User:AlSweigart|Al Sweigart]]

[[User:Orph|Alex Graveley]]

[[User:VonGuard|Alex Handy]]

[[User:Amouravski|Andrei Mouravski]]

[[User:Adi|Andy Isaacson]]

[[User:Vniow|Ani Niow]]

[[User:Paulproteus|Asheesh]]

[[User:Yerdua|AudreyPenven]]

[[Usr:Bifrost|Evil Bifrost]]

[[User:Bill|Bill Paul]]

[[User:Endenizen|Brian Ferrell]]

[[User:warner|Brian Warner]]

[[User:charliep|Charlie Hsu]]

[[User:murph|Chris Murphy]]

[[User:chris|Chris Palmer]]

[[User:christie|Christie Dudley]]

[[User:cmaier|Christoph Maier]]

[[User:colleen|Colleen Smith]]

[[User:ladyfox14|Cristina Chow]]

[[User:da3mon|damon mccormick]]

[[User:cubes|Daneil C. Silverstein]]

[[Daniela Steinsapir]]

[[User:Malaclyps|Danny O'Brien]]

[[User:awkwardwhitejew|Dan Sherizen]]

[[User:Avidd|Davidfine]]

[[DavidMolnar]]

[[User:David415|David Stainton]]

[[User:edrabbit|Ed Hunsinger]]

[[User:gpvillamil|Gian Pablo Villamil]]

[[User:verbal|ian]]

[[User:mightyohm|Jeff Keyzer]]

[[Jeff Tchang]]

[[User:wrecca|Jesse Welz]]

[[Greg Albrecht]]

[[User:grey|grey]]

[[User:mooflyfoof|Heather Lynch]]

[[JakeAppelbaum]]

[[User:joachimp|Joachim Pedersen]]

[[User:jlapenna|Joe LaPenna]]

[[JimStockford]]

[[User:BuddhaHacker|Jonas S Karlsson]]

[[User:Jof|Jonathan Lassoff]]

[[User:aeonsf|John Menerick]]

[[User:jtfoote|Jonathan Foote]]

[[User:jbm|Josh Myer]]

[[User:Jabra|Joshua D. Abraham]]

[[User:Kreedy|Kevin Reedy]]

[[User:Kragen|Kragen Javier Sitaker]]

[[User:netsniper|Kristian Erik Hermansen]]

[[User:Gadlen|Lee Sonko]]

[[User:Leif|Leif Ryge]]

[[User:le|Luiz Eduardo]]

[[User:Lizzard|Liz Henry]]

[[User:Marc|Marc Powell]]

[[User:Mfb|Mark Burdett]]

[[User:Kripto|Mark Cohen]]

[[User:matt|Matt Peterson]]

[[User:Mattbot|Mattbot]]

[[User:Maymay|Meitar "maymay" Moscovitz]]

[[User:Meredith|Meredith scheff]]

[[User:Meyermagic|Meyer S. Jacobs]]

[[User:Micah|Micah]]

[[User:mprados|Michael Prados]]

[[User:MichaelShiloh|Michael Shiloh]]

[[User:MCT|Michael Toren (mct)]]

[[User:Michiexile|Mikael Vejdemo Johansson]]

[[User:maltman23|Mitch Altman]]

[[User:Mlp|Mlp]]

[[User:miloh|R. Miloh Alexander]]

[[NateLawson]]

[[User:neha|Neha Chriss]]

[[User:Owen|Owen]]

[[User:Enki|Paul Böhm]]

[[User:Pde|Peter Eckersley]]

[[User:standardusername|Peter Youngmeister]]

[[Quinn Norton]]

[[User:h0mee|Praveen Sinha]]

[[User:rachel|Rachel McConnell]]

[[User:rubin110|Rubin Starset]]

[[User:RyanBagueros|Ryan Bagueros]]

[[User:sethalves|Seth Alves]]

[[User:Schoen|Seth Schoen]]

[[User:Simone|Simone Davalos]]

[[User:skyex|skye x]]

[[User:mrcamuti|Steve Camuti]]

[[User:Mediapathic|Steen]]

[[User:ThOMG|Thom Hastings]]

[[Tracy Jacobs]]

[[User:xndr|Xander Hudson]]

[[User:window|Window Snyder]]

[[User:ZandrMilewski|Zandr Milewski]]

User:Joachimp

2010-01-21T11:36:48Z

Joachimp: Created page with 'ssh-rsa AAAAB3NzaC1yc2EAAAABIwAAAQEA6kQpuNZieGwswldDDOP0cyBoVkN1uOoryWEaLseNL0TGj9V4VKITzG/rQccKBzH64Q6skpQ4BZ1LABCn2TdJbS8O6iGChLIjd38a/zvaicG5rjAuke/BSQgja7Zwb9MbBcedna/OTfFq8h…'

ssh-rsa AAAAB3NzaC1yc2EAAAABIwAAAQEA6kQpuNZieGwswldDDOP0cyBoVkN1uOoryWEaLseNL0TGj9V4VKITzG/rQccKBzH64Q6skpQ4BZ1LABCn2TdJbS8O6iGChLIjd38a/zvaicG5rjAuke/BSQgja7Zwb9MbBcedna/OTfFq8h408YFaeyo2WgbaDNeJ0/is6U3Dt24QlhsLsvdk7HP6PWKR7cc93ayZXQ75/2XJHytWcpgGaZkAPGZAUAeS4ivppUseF0Ta1uFAg7Lo6x0HgFdb5a+n21esSSY3VV6QAKAPRf8+JdSdWXpuCACUFKZ3rGUaY+vtPj02pQh6G0rMz7Jsvan1qQ7KDWPLe58LiDFHUF2ikQ== joachimp@gnuboo

File:NBgoogleNews.png

2009-12-01T00:22:21Z

Joachimp: NB hits google news SF section- cnet article

NB hits google news SF section- cnet article

Darkroom

2009-11-15T21:25:20Z

Joachimp: /* Donations */

''Currently this page is being used to organize the build out and creation of the dark room. Eventually it'll be used to talk about happenings in the dark room.''

==About==

The darkroom is under construction at 2169. It is located on the east side in between the emergency exit and the bathrooms. This room may also be used for silk screening.

If you want to participate in discussion, please hit up our [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/darkroom/ mailing list].

==Plan==
''Sort of in order of what needs to be done.''

* <s>Build walls</s>
* <s>Paint exterior</s>
* Paint interior - Peter
* Electrical - Rubin
** Run conduit and boxes
** Lighting
** Wire
** Vent switch
* Plumbing - Rubin
** Run pipes under floors
** Hook up sink
* Ventilation - Joachim
** Setup fan above room
** Vent out to bathroom or skylight
* <s>Ceiling</s> - Joachim
* Door - Kelly (Oh look, this is my job now! --[[User:Hurtstotouchfire|Hurtstotouchfire]] 14:20, 14 November 2009 (PST))
** Door door
** Light tight curtain or maze - Audrey
* Shelving and tables
** Bins for storage
** Some sort of filing cabinet for paper
** A fridge

==Donations==
===Funds===
''These are currently pledged funds.''

* $50 - Andy
* $50 - Rubin
* $100 - dpc
* $177 - Joachim *paid* ceiling/fan materials
* $50 - Dan Garcia
* $24 - Mitch
* $75 - Kelly

===Equipment===
* Enlarger
* Timer
* A butt load of chemicals
* A deep sink
* Light tight drums
* Enlarger - Audrey (I don't own a vehicle and need to arrange transport from my house to NB)
* Color enlarger - Dan Garcia
* Easel (11x14) - MarkC
* Timer (Digital) - MarkC
* Grain Focuser - MarkC
* Film chemicals (hc-110, tmax) -MarkC

====Film scanner====
We currently have a flatbed scanner with 35mm and 120 film inserts. The Canon software that works best with it is only for Windows. There has been talk of making a VM for this. The scanner belongs to Joachim and lives on his shelf.
----
This thread might be helpful, as the request for a linux compatible scanner was made...

http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=471680

I've been looking at the Nikon Super Coolscan LS-4000 ED. This is a high end consumer 35mm scanner. 4000dpi, Firewire, scans 6 frames, slides (with an attachment), and a roll of up to 40 frames (with a $500 attachment). It runs under Mac and Windows, Linux is supported through [http://www.hamrick.com/ VueScan]. Here's a nice [http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/LS4K/L40A.HTM review]. I'm currently finding these used for around $500 off of [http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=nikon+4000&_sacat=0&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_odkw=nikon+4000+ed&_osacat=0 ebay]. --[[User:Rubin110|rubin110]] 14:26, 19 October 2009 (PDT)

== Learning ==
Once the space is set up, I will teach classes on film development, printing, and general darkroom use. I will also be available to help out on a one-on-one basis with anyone who would like to learn.

'''Expressions of Interest'''

please add your name here if you're interested in attending a workshop.

== Meetings ==
We have meetings!

Agenda and meeting notes...

* [[Darkroom/Meetings/20091020|October 20th, 2009]]

Moving/2009 Pledges

2009-08-07T06:03:07Z

Joachimp: paid...

This page records pledges from people to Noisebridge for the occasion of moving to a bigger space in 2009. When adding your pledge, please note if your company makes matching donations to 501c3 (or if you think they might do so). The Noisebridge Secretary will be more than happy to help with any paperwork for matching donations. This page starts with pledges from the 14 July 2009 meeting - if you see your name or amount is incorrect, change it. Please add more pledges!

Total so far is:

* '''$14,206.40''' without doubling
* '''$16,856.40''' with doubling

{| border="1"
! Name
! Ammount
! Matching
! Received
! Comment
|-
| Andy
| $100
| double
|
|
|-
| Ben
| $1000
| double
|
|
|-
| Jake
| $500
|
|
|
|-
| Jim
| $100
|
|
|
|-
| Bill
| $500
|
|
|
|-
| Billy
| $50
|
| yes
|
|-
| Vlad
| $100
|
|
|
|-
| David Stafford
| $1000
|
| yes
|
|-
| Crutcher
| $500
| double
|
|
|-
| Steve
| $150
| double
|
|
|-
| David Stainton
| $1000
|
|
|
|-
| Rachel
| $500
|
| yes
|
|-
| Mikolaj
| $500
| double
|
|
|-
| Lamont
| $100
|
|
|
|-
| Christie
| $500
| double
|
|
|-
| Jeffrey
| $250
|
|
|
|-
| Joachim
| $100
|
| yes
|
|-
| Aestetix
| $500
|
|
|
|-
| Miah
| $500
| See comment
|
| See: http://www.salesforcefoundation.org/equity
|-
| Leif
| $250
|
|
|
|-
| Micah
| $100
|
|
|
|-
| Anonymous
| $500
|
|
|
|-
| Shannon
| $500
|
|
|
|-
| John
| $100
|
|
|
|-
| JSharp
| $500
|
|
|
|-
| Bill Pollock
| $500
|
|
|
|-
| Rubin
| $0.40
|
|
| (BART card)
|-
| David Molnar
| $300
|
| yes
|
|-
| Martyn
| $500
|
|
|
|-
| Al B
| $500
|
| yes
|
|-
| Jonathan F
| $250
|
|
| Paid 8/6 [[User:99.24.219.188|99.24.219.188]] 12:22, 6 August 2009 (PDT)
|-
| Meryl P
| $100
|
| yes
|
|-
| Praveen
| $1000
|
|
|
|-
| Nick DePetrillo
| $100
|
|
| (will give to Jake in vegas)
|-
| dpc
| $256
| no
| paypal-ed
|
|-
| Eric
| $250
|
|
|
|-
| Jonathan Moore
| $500
|
|
|
|-
| Skory
| $100
|
|
|
|-
| Liz
| $100
|
|
|
|-

|}

Moving/2169 Mission/challenges

2009-07-21T22:55:26Z

Joachimp: more infos from the ML

= Overview =
There has been much discussion on the mailing list about various issues faced with moving to 2169 Mission. Please list the various issues you think that Noisebridge should address.

* Lack of published budget showing we can afford this space with our existing run rate AND afford the required/desired upgrades?
* is 2169 accessible to wheelchair users?
"There is a freight elevator which goes from the street-level "lobby" to
the third floor. I don't know if it will comply with the letter of the
law on ADA issues, but I do believe it will be practically useable to
enable weelchair users to access the third floor." -from discuss list

* is the vermin problem (due to the greengrocery downstairs) large or small?

* Can the wood floor support future heavy equipment?

=Move in cost=

=Build-out cost=
* Numbers ranging 10-$50k have been voiced.

=Long term cost=
"It's a good deal in terms of $/sqft, so in that sense it's cheap. My
question is simply whether we presently have the funds to commit to
that extra 1.5k/mo for 3 years. It seems to me that the numbers since
Dec 08 say 'no'; we'd be short ~$600/mo, esp. considering we'll have
some outlay costs in renovation." -from discuss list

"it's very hard to predict whether
expanding our space would lead to expanding membership as well. At
current rates, the rent increase alone would require ~18 new members
to be paid off." -from discuss list
"We've been adding net 6 members per month for the last 3 months.
Obviously past results are not a guarantee of future performance, but
the signs are good. We have an excellent member pipeline and dozens of
prospects."-from discuss list

Moving/2169 Mission

2009-07-21T01:30:40Z

Joachimp: /* Overview */ added challenges link

= Overview =
* location on [http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=2169+Mission+St+San+Francisco,+CA+94110&sll=37.762302,-122.41938&sspn=0.010746,0.023357&ie=UTF8&z=17&iwloc=A Google Maps]
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/60801485@N00/sets/72157621249555632/ pictures] from initial visit
* [http://web.hexapodia.org/~adi/pix/20090714-2169-mission/ electrical panel, basement, and roof 360°] pictures from our second visit
* [[Moving/2169_Mission/challenges|Issues&Challenges]]

= Planning =

See [[Moving/2169_Mission/Buildout | Buildout]]

= Visits =
* Initial visit: 2009-07-10
* Group visit & inspection: 2009-07-14

= Moving Checklist =

If we do move into 2169, these things should be done.

== T-14 ==
* Contact insurance agents. Ask for quotes of $1MM general liability insurance (or whatever lease terms want). Current insurance is MIF Insurance, agent Pauline Nagata.
* Set up utilities for new space: trash, water, electricity, internet

== T-7 ==
* Set up cancellation date for Internets at 83c.

== T-0 ==
We have the keys! Moving day!

* Move all objects from 83c to 2169.

== T+1 ==

* Double-check that no items are left at 83c.
* Change the lock on 83c.

= Features =
* 12ft ceilings (approx)
* 5600sf quoted
* 3500lb freight elevator available from lobby
* $3600/mo 3yr lease quoted
* available now, would like us to move in 2009-08-01 or 2009-08-15; negotiable, but there's another tenant who is willing to start 2009-10-01 so if we don't preempt we lose the space.
* family owned, we talked to the son (seems like a nice guy with his shit together), they live in SF
* three stairwells plus front fire escape
* third floor of 3, 8 skylights (currently painted over), full floor
* access stairway shared with 2nd floor (which houses a garment manufacturing operation), with security gates on each floor.
* landlords OK with our membership structure and access philosophy
* no PGE gas lines in bldg
* concrete pillars with apparently wood frame floors (floor finished in mix of wood, linoleum, and tile)
* former sewing factory, tons of electrical distribution & comes with several Jukis!
* windows on Mission and on rear
* two tiny bathrooms
* many 8ft walls separating space are easily removed as we desire
* a few small full-height rooms, we would want to build out to our spec
* roof appears to be in reasonable shape
* roof access is through the space, available for antennas / repairs but not for general access (no roof deck or hottub)
* no HVAC
* has installed sprinklers, the landlord is going to have them serviced and certified before move-in
* utilities, garbage, etc are responsibility of tenant
* we are welcome to take out the existing dividing walls and build to suit

= Crime =
A search on [http://www.sfgov.org/crimemaps SF's crime map] of the area on Mission St between 16th St and 18th St (but largely not including 16th BART) has 51 incidents over the past 30 days:

6 assaults, 33 narcotics/drugs, 2 larceny/theft, 5 robberies, 3 vandalisms, and 2 vehicle thefts.

(I searched within 500 feet of the intersection of Mission St & 17th St which gave a near-perfect radius encompassing the walk from BART to this address, estimating the additional crime exposure we would have between this place and 83c)

= Questions =
* are property taxes responsibility of owner or of tenant? (is the lease [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triple_net_lease NNN]?)
** ''A copy of the proposed lease is in 83C in one of the membership binders in the kitchen cabinet. From my (Rachel's) reading of it, it's not triple Net; property taxes are not mentioned. We would be required to carry insurance but not, IIRC, against building issues. But we should doublecheck these things.''
* is there a water heater?
* is there Comcast in the building?
** Comcast service is available for the building. Matt Petersen mentions no wiring in the MPOE but this can be fixed.
* what kind of ventilation is there for a kitchen, a shop, a photolab, and any other project that would require it?
** ''the front and rear window walls are easy to ventilate through. There are not vents in the roof and installing them would require a contractor -- not impossible, but a bit expensive. [[User:Adi|Adi]] 23:05, 10 July 2009 (PDT) ''
* how easy will it be to bring bikes in and out?
** ''Up two flights of stairs to the space, through a doorway. Easy to install bike racks as we choose. [[User:Adi|Adi]] 23:05, 10 July 2009 (PDT)''
* what are the electric and water bills of the last tenant for a few months? we'll have less electricity use most likely but possibly more water.
* is the space wheelchair accessible?
** ''There is a freight elevator that goes from the street level to the space. It may or may not be ADA compliant, but as a practical matter it will enable wheelchair users to get upstairs.'' [[User:Adi|Adi]] 20:57, 12 July 2009 (PDT)
* who pays for elevator maintenance?
** The landlords pay for elevator maintenance.
* how high can the lights be moved? (e.g. probably some code restriction from the sprinklers)

= Detailed notes =

* Floor ([[User:Saizai|Sai Emrys]])
** deep gouge next to bathroom; possible water damage / rot
** rat hole in wall next to rear staircase
** large hole and water damage along base of exterior wall next to roof ladder
** many broken kitchen tiles
** wood floors throughout are sagging and uneven; possibly indicates damage to between-beams floor support structure
** water damage on wood floor next to DJ booth
** paper-mache covering base of one of large vertical pipes near roof ladder; possibly covering damage? doesn't seem like a good fix
* [[2169_Mission_roof|roof]]
* [[2169_Mission_windows|Windows]] ([[User:Christie|Christie]])

= Map =

[[Image:Floorplan2169MissionSmall.jpg]]

Moving/2169 Mission/challenges

2009-07-20T22:17:15Z

Joachimp: init page ~~~~

Moving/2169 Mission/Buildout

2009-07-16T07:09:24Z

Joachimp: added DXF links

= Buildout Plans for the Sweatshop (2169 Mission #300) =
This is a page for capturing ideas associated with the buildout of 2169 Mission.
= Build out Service Requirements =
* City waste dumpster and permits
* Sales tax free account at local big box hardware/contractor store (yay 501(c)(3))
= Sub-Spaces =
== Spaces at 83c ==
83c has subspaces consisting of:

* The Main / Meeting Room
* The Dirty Shop (Machine Room)
* The Clean Shop (Electronics Lab)
* The Chill Space (Lounge)
* The Kitchen
* The Bathroom

== Spaces Planned for the Sweatshop ==

=== Concept: Usage Zones ===
One conceptual idea last night was to break the space into three major use areas, and cluster the rooms associated with those uses in three areas. The areas mentioned last night were the Academic area, the Party area, and the Build area. The Party space seems a natural fit for the back of the space (it has a DJ Booth!); the front, with the light and space, seems like a good place for Classrooms, and the middle, dungeon-ish area seems like where shops should go.

==== Academic / Classroom ====
consisting of conference / classrooms, areas suitable for learning, planning, and colaboration. Room ideas are:
* Dungeons and Dragons room: a rectangular room with a board-room style table in it, walls covered in bookshelves and whiteboards.
* Math Room: Krutcher suggests that rather than a "conference room" style classroom, maybe we want a "math room" -- essentially a room with a couple of small tables, some chairs or couches, lots of pacing space, and a bunch of whiteboards; the idea is to facilitate active, creative discussion.
* Study Rooms: Small rooms just big enough for four people to crowd into or one person to spread out in.
* The chill space / lounge conceptually could belong to this Zone.

==== Make / Build====
Consisting of shop and lab space. Ideas include:
* Dirty Shop -- the machine room / fab space for actually sawing, hammering, lathing and milling.
* Clean Shop -- electronics lab filled with benches for soldering &c.
* Craft Space -- suitable for textile work &c
* Darkroom -- For developing pictures
* Chem lab -- space suitable for chemistry / bio work
* Recording studio - soundproof area big enough for a small band and mics
* Ham shack - Amaetur radio operating room. Needs good way to get feed lines to the roof. Might be good to colocate with recording studio

==== Disco ====
This space is essentially given over to the "party" aspect of Noisebridge: This is the large social space where people not only dance and socialize but hack in large, overlapping groups, much like the vibe that's often present in the Big Room at 83c.
* The Big Room -- Big open space suitable not only for dancing but for general meetings.
* DJ Booth -- What to do with the DJ Booth?

==== Facilities ====
* Kitchen -- needs to be built.
* Bathrooms -- one is built, other may need buildout. (shower?)
* Server room -- Enough room and cooling for a rack of machines. Max 5kw worth of equipment and cooling.
* Nap space -- quiet area to relax, sleep, etc. Perhaps simply hammocks on the roof?

==== DXF Cad Files ====
[http://chaboo.mooo.com/chaboo/NewNB/ Find them here]
[[Image:Floorplan2169MissionSmall.jpg]]

Grocerylist

2009-06-29T04:02:50Z

Joachimp: quinoa

Vegan Grocery list for Toorcamp 2009.

Reminder: RV only has stove top and microwave. And yes, there is a small fridge. Campfires presumably will also exist though?

Things to get:

* Vegan marshmallows!
* Pancake mix (need a recipe for vegan pancakes - not my forte) apparently this one is good and needs tons moar cinnamon! http://www.recipezaar.com/Vegan-Banana-Pecan-Pancakes-224147
Miloh Got some vegan mix at Rainbow 6/27
* hot chocolate mix **STILL NEED**
* gochujang (wtf is this?? --miloh)
* shoyu
Miloh got a liter of some Aloha Soy sauce *
* rice *got a 25lb of Jasmine rice, 2009 crop*
* quinoa! its a complete protein!
* maybe some noodles?
* mushrooms
Miloh got masses of sliced dried shitake *
* sweet potatoes or yams
* plantains
* coconut milk
Miloh got 3 2500mL restaurant size cans of coconut milk -- not enough, *
* crackers
* chips
Miloh got lots of fry chips and stuff for making Night market foods..
* cookies!
* some vegan ribs, burgers (assuming refrigeration)
Miloh got lots of chinese vegan/tarian meat packs *
* canned black beans/red beans
* oils (olive, veggie)
Miloh got 2 gallons of corn oil for the cantina*
* potatoes (for breakfast or fries)
* soup bouillon cubes
Miloh got a lb of Rainbow VeganStock (is it vegan or vegetarian, can someone check this?)
* stuff for a stew (carrots, onions, potatoes, seitan or tofu, turnip)
* greens (kale, spinach)
* dark chocolate
* avocado
* nut butter of some type

Um
* Mate?

ToorCamp 2009

2009-04-30T07:42:28Z

Joachimp: /* People */ added me

== ToorCamp ==

Noisebridge is organizing a campsite at [http://wiki.toorcamp.org/wiki/Campsites:Noisebridge ToorCamp]!

== Register! ==

Sign up with the discount code mentioned on [https://www.noisebridge.net/pipermail/noisebridge-discuss/2009-April/003908.html our list] soon!

== Events ==
Grey's going to DJ

== Workshops ==

Which workshops should we host?

Jake's going to talk about Magstripes, Tor and GSM

== People ==

[[User:Ioerror|Jacob]]

[[User:Ryanc|ryanc]]

[[User:mrcamuti|Steve aka mooch]]

[[User:ultramegaman|Paul from Protospace]]

[[User:int_80|DK from Protospace]]

[[User:ramburglar|ramburglar from Protospace]]

[[User:Joachimp|Joachimp]]

== Travel ==

How will we all get there?

I'm planning to drive and have space for two people in my car in exchange for gas money. Please ask me about it on IRC or in person if you're interested. - [[User:Ryanc|Ryanc]]

== Shelter ==

Are we renting an RV? Tents?

I have an army surplus tent that sleeps 6 comfortably that I'm bringing... as with rides, please talk to me on IRC or in person if you're interested in sharing. - [[User:Ryanc|Ryanc]]

Does anyone have Yurt that could be loaned?